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I have a 2008 F-250 6.4 with 120k on the truck and it needs once again a new radiator! As you can tell with the amount of miles on the truck I work out of it. I own a small company and the truck is my lifeline. Does anybody know if Ford is looking into this problem? I cant keep shelling out $1500 every 60 thousand miles. I thought I bought a good product but I don't know anymore.

Can anyone give me some advice on what to do?
Thank you in advance!
Jayce Broussard
2008 F-250 4x4 Crew 6.4
 

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I'm sorry about your situation. Every 6 months or so, FMC flip flops on the 6.4L radiator issue. The TSB was revised last week and now they are having techs replace the degas bottle with an 09' style, draining and refilling the cooling system along with radiator replacement. Without ESP and 120k on the clock, your best bet is to call FMC to complain or find a sympathic dealer that will assist you with some of their CLP money.
 

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I must ask.

How much do these radiators cost to buy ?

$1500 sounds out of control for a afternoons worth of work in our own garages.
 

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Here is the lastest TSB:
[************]Printable View (7677 KB)[/color]

TSB
11-6-6 • 6.4L - RADIATOR LEAKING COOLANT
[************]Publication Date: June 3, 2011[/color]

FORD: 2008-2010 F-250, F-350, F-450, F-550



This article supersedes TSB 11-1-7 to update the Issue Statement, Service Procedure, Part List and Service Labor Time Standards. ISSUE:

Some F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 6.4L engine may exhibit an external coolant leak from the radiator. Slow leaks at cooling system hoses/connections can lead to low coolant levels. Excessive hot and cold cycling associated with low coolant levels can cause stress within the radiator tubes, possibly resulting in cracks in the tubes.
ACTION:

Follow service procedure steps to repair this concern.
SERVICE PROCEDURE



Thermostat inspection is no longer required because IDS release 71.04 and later added a cooling system monitor.
1. Inspect for the cooling system venturi tee being installed and verify proper orientation. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-03, Degas Bottle - 6.4L Diesel.
2. Degas bottle port inspection and repair:
1. Dual-port design requires the degas bottle to be replaced with the single-port design and a new degas bottle cap. (Figure 1) Proceed to Step 3.


Figure 1 - Article 11-6-6
2. Single-port design requires inspection of the degas bottle cap sealing surface for nicks and/or cracks. If present, replace the degas bottle and degas bottle cap. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Coolant leak inspection and repair:
1. Visually inspect all cooling system hoses/connections for evidence of coolant loss such as white coolant residue (dried coolant) or liquid coolant and repair as necessary. (Figure 2)


Figure 2 - Article 11-6-6
2. If a leak is found at a radiator hose O-ring seal, the radiator hose should be replaced. The upper and lower radiator hoses have been updated with a dual O-ring seal design for improved sealing.
4. Replace the radiator. Refer to WSM, Section 303-03.
1. Be sure to remove the engine coolant block plugs from both sides of the engine to drain the coolant from the engine block.
2. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and new Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Do not reuse coolant that was drained from the cooling system.
3. Utilize the Rotunda Heavy Duty Airlift II radiator refiller tool (UVU550500INT) or equivalent when filling the cooling system. Filling without use of the Heavy Duty Airlift II radiator refiller tool may leave excessive air in the system
PART NUMBER PART NAME
8C3Z-8009-B Radiator
9C3Z-8A080-AA Degas bottle
9C3Z-8101-B Cap- Degas bottle
AC3Z-8260-A Upper Radiator hose
AC3Z-8286-A Lower radiator hose
8C3Z-8B379-B Venturi Tee
VC-7-B Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant


WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
110606A 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L: Inspect The Cooling System, Correct Or Install Venturi Tee, Replace The Radiator, Includes Time To Drain And Fill The Cooling System (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 2.8 Hrs.
110606B 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L: Inspect The Cooling System, Correct Or Install The Venturi Tee, Replace The Degas Bottle And Cap If Necessary, Replace The Radiator, Includes Time To Drain And Fill The Cooling System (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.2 Hrs.
110606C 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L: Inspect The Cooling System, Correct Or Install Venturi Tee, Replace The Upper And Lower Radiator Hoses, Replace The Radiator, Includes Time To Drain And Fill The Cooling System (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 2.9 Hrs.
110606D 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L: Inspect The Cooling System, Correct Or Install The Venturi Tee, Replace The Degas Bottle And Cap If Necessary, Replace The Upper And Lower Radiator Hoses, Replace The Radiator, Includes Time To Drain And Fill The Cooling System (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.3 Hrs.
MT110606 For Any Additional Cooling System Repairs Use SLTS Operations If Available Or Actual Time Actual Time

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
8009 (Operations A or B) 42
8590 (Operations C or D) 42


NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.
Copyright © 2011 Ford Motor Company
 

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cheap rad

The radiators Ford puts in our trucks are "Mickey Mouse". So are the hoses and connections. Why don't they use good quality SS screw clamps? What's with this o-ring non-sense? Don't be surprised if one day I post that I tossed my 6.4 motor and replace it with a 7.3 I miss my old 7.3 It died with 677,000 miles...........and I replaced the rad. once(only because I broke the flange when I put a new hose one day). And it had about 500,000 miles or more when I broke it. I think Ford should put the 7.3 rad. in the 6.4...................problem solved!!!!!:lol:
 

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could you explain clp money? i just spent a couple of days trying to get ford to kick in towards a new rad and hoses for my 08 250 cc lb lariat with 44k, but they would'nt do squat. the dealer just wanted to do the work and gave me a hard time so i took the truck back w/o the repair. re-reading the tsb again i notice that they call for a single port degas tank. mine has two nipples, one capped. should i be worring about this? is it worth the update? i'll be trying another dealer mon, maybee i can a better deal than the 10% the last dealer finally offered as i was driving away. anyway game plan is to fix the truck, sell it asap, sue ford in small claims and move on down the road.
 

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Recently someone posted about an after market with lifetime replacement guar.
 

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could you explain clp money? i just spent a couple of days trying to get ford to kick in towards a new rad and hoses for my 08 250 cc lb lariat with 44k, but they would'nt do squat. the dealer just wanted to do the work and gave me a hard time so i took the truck back w/o the repair. re-reading the tsb again i notice that they call for a single port degas tank. mine has two nipples, one capped. should i be worring about this? is it worth the update? i'll be trying another dealer mon, maybee i can a better deal than the 10% the last dealer finally offered as i was driving away. anyway game plan is to fix the truck, sell it asap, sue ford in small claims and move on down the road.
FYI: The 6.4L (Job1) came with a dual port degas bottle. Mine is a Job3 and also came with a dual port degas bottle. When I first got my truck a small coolant hose from the EGR valve was connected to the top port and small rad hose connected to the bottom port. After a recall, the dealer installed a Venturi Tee that basically connected both hoses to the bottom port and they capped the top port. Shortly after my EGR valve quit working and they replace it with a newer version that doesn’t have coolant running through it. So instead of a small coolant hose that went from the vertical EGR cooler to the EGR valve and out of the EGR valve to the Venturi Tee, it comes right from the EGR vertical cooler to the Venturi Tee. I’m assuming that if the top port is capped on your degas bottle, you had the Venturi Tee recall done. I have seen a truck that the dealer installed the Tee backwards and that the cap they put on the top port was venting (leaking) before the 16 psi cap pressure on the bottle. So if yours is connected right and is working I don’t see worrying but it wouldn’t hurt to ask the new dealer.
 

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If there are repeat radiator failures something else is going on. Make sure there are no other coolant leaks i.e. upper/lower radiator hose, heater hoses, EGR cooler hoses, ect. A small leak will cause turbulence in the system, splitting the radiator. Also, when the radiator is out remove the coolant pump and thermostats to visually inspect the thermostats for hyper-extension and the front cover for cavitation. Use the updated 09' style degas bottle, fill with VC-7 and distilled water.
 

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If there are repeat radiator failures something else is going on. Make sure there are no other coolant leaks i.e. upper/lower radiator hose, heater hoses, EGR cooler hoses, ect. A small leak will cause turbulence in the system, splitting the radiator. Also, when the radiator is out remove the coolant pump and thermostats to visually inspect the thermostats for hyper-extension and the front cover for cavitation. Use the updated 09' style degas bottle, fill with VC-7 and distilled water.
The issue is stress related as these radiators get flexed with every bump you hit...To prove this effect take a floor jack or fork lift if you have one and lift the drivers side of the truck at the front drivers side wheel while someone else watches the radiator pass side where it is held in by the top rubber mount..I bet 9 out of 10 times you will see the radiator being flexed as you lift the wheel..When ford tells you to go looking at the bottles,thermostats ect there just playing cover there a&& as they know exactly what the real problem is here..They failed to properly isolate the radiator from frame flex...
 

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If there are repeat radiator failures something else is going on. Make sure there are no other coolant leaks i.e. upper/lower radiator hose, heater hoses, EGR cooler hoses, ect. A small leak will cause turbulence in the system, splitting the radiator. Also, when the radiator is out remove the coolant pump and thermostats to visually inspect the thermostats for hyper-extension and the front cover for cavitation. Use the updated 09' style degas bottle, fill with VC-7 and distilled water.
The issue is stress related as these radiators get flexed with every bump you hit...To prove this effect take a floor jack or fork lift if you have one and lift the drivers side of the truck at the front drivers side wheel while someone else watches the radiator pass side where it is held in by the top rubber mount..I bet 9 out of 10 times you will see the radiator being flexed as you lift the wheel..When ford tells you to go looking at the bottles,thermostats ect there just playing cover there a&& as they know exactly what the real problem is here..They failed to properly isolate the radiator from frame flex...
 

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The issue is stress related as these radiators get flexed with every bump you hit...To prove this effect take a floor jack or fork lift if you have one and lift the drivers side of the truck at the front drivers side wheel while someone else watches the radiator pass side where it is held in by the top rubber mount..I bet 9 out of 10 times you will see the radiator being flexed as you lift the wheel..When ford tells you to go looking at the bottles,thermostats ect there just playing cover there a&& as they know exactly what the real problem is here..They failed to properly isolate the radiator from frame flex...
Too add to this, the body mount bushings are a common wear item on these trucks which causes more flex. I want to say 8 out of 10 trucks when we lift the cab up the bushings are shot and we replace them.

I'm getting ready to add an Mishimoto to my truck to get rid of the plastic tank style OEM. :thumbsup:
 

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I don't doubt that but my truck had less than 25000 miles on it when my radiator went. I checked the body bushings and they were fine.I can see where the body bushings would be the cause with more mileage.

Mine had 90k when I did studs and bushings were shot. I haven't seen a defined mileage on when they wear out (i'm pretty anal about my pickup too). At the same time, last truck we did it on had 200k on the clock. Same year, same build date as mine. But if you bushings were good, the yes that would eliminate that issue. :thumbsup:
 

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I should edit my post above by saying the flex caused by these chassis wears out the bushings more causing more flex and where we've seen repetitive radiator failures on trucks. I can see where my post was a little miss-leading. Your right Freddie, ford failed to isolate the radiator from the chassis flex.
 
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