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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The piston is sealed with two seals. The inner is an oring type. The outer is a lip type seal. The latter makes it very difficult to get the piston in without damaging the seal. Many tools can cut the seal. One guy has a video. In the video, he cuts up a plastic file folder. This is an excellent why to cut the seal and not no it.
I do a lot of hydraulic work. I have lots of seal protectors and seal drivers ( mostly Sundstrand, Eaton and TRW), nothing that large in a protector.
I found this puppy. It’s just perfect. It has a perfect balance of flex and rigidity. It’s edges are rounded so they are not sharp at all.
You put it on the inside of the drum against the wall. You place the piston into the bore after you have lubed the seal and piston with ATF. You start rolling the Lip Wizard while lightly pushing down on the piston behind the Lip wizard. It moves very fluidly ( no pun intended ) and when you have made 360 degrees the piston pushes right in sans all of the paranoia that it’s been cut, not able to even leave or worse, it’s coming back.
That thing is even patented. It must be in the plastic composition and maybe the round edge that won’t cut versus a piece of plastic that was cut in a conventional way.
When I used it, it gave me that same gratifying feeling I get when rebuilding a hydraulic torque motor and I have to drive a rock hard sealing ring into a groove. I put that protector sleeve over the shaft, start the ring at the top of the sleeve where the protector sleeve is smaller in diameter, tap, tap, tap, smack and the driver bottoms out. Yeah, that feeling.
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