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Discussion Starter #21
Also I’m getting a p0741. Sound like my valve body is dirty and/or solenoid for converter is not working proper..
Prolly should just pull the trans pan and change filter pull the valve body run the air and ohms test. Then clean and inspect closely. Change fluid again. Add new Trans harness also to the Harness going to the rear of truck. I have found some nasty wires. They kinda look rusty from the inside u wouldn’t think it from the wires itself. Im gussying thes wires got hot some how 🙋‍♂️🤦‍♂️ 🤬. I . Wires were cut and wires into before I got the truck. prolly got bad grounds and reverse lights. Possibly turn also. Light do work but no way it can be the correct draw for the system. Possibly others in the harness starting at rear tail light and trailer tow wires. The wires were improperly installed Most likely I did it 🤦‍♂️.. I hope I didn’t jack up my Pcm 😅
I should prolly do the harnesses first..
I these wires didn’t look like this when I built the car hauler body. I don’t believe I have messed with wires a few times..
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The range sensor doesn't work by varying voltage. It works by making and breaking different circuits depending on where the shift handle is located.

Why are you asking this? What makes you want to look at the range sensor? Nothing in the data you showed even shows the range sensor, and none of your symptoms point towards the range sensor. I'm puzzled.
Range sensor is nothing to do with the data just anther question. Reason for asking about range sensor is because i was trying to remember the voltage numbers from the snap on scanner. I know my numbers of the range sensor. I have also replaced it. I thought the numbers were low that’s why. But same numbers as before.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Personal I know the trucks stock ways of operation pretty well. I driven older fords commercial since 2013. I just suck at figure issues out. I can fix most. I never used a scanner or dug this hard into a trucks I’m learning fully . Reason for looking and range sensor is because I’ve tried to look at every area that could be a problem or figuring out what things do. Reading these threads can be touch lots of good info and bad.
Knowing the truck actions I know what the Brake peddle does when it’s pressed or stuck on ( it’s happened many times with a few of my 1990 -2004 Ford F-350 trucks. That’s how it’s acting fully. I unhooked the exhaust brake and truck didn’t fight me as much to keep speed. My guess is these wires Going to rear tail lights are affecting the trans ( Torque converter included of course guessing that’s why the code. ). Converter won’t turn on with the brake applied. Cost clutch is applied and exhaust brake also.. the wires are brittle and orange looking like rust but it’s not rust I can see heat has gotten to them.... I started the thread because I have to fix it myself for a couple reasons. got lucky being able to use proper scanner for this trans and truck. almost Really reading you’re replies on my and many others 🙏 has helped me go threw all my engine. they say engine fix any issues with engine before trans so I did. The trans I kinda got the basics down. Just a lot of confusion in my typing. My fault. I jump around. My engine is amazing now😎!!!.

How do u feel about the rear wires making the system not get enough draw to cause this. My thought it’s like LED lights issues low draw.. The wheels spin with no drag in the garage on jack stands all wheel disk. Emergency 🚨 brake is correct (now). I just found the wires like this while installing all non led lights. Couple hrs ago. I slowed down and I know I have the correct wires now and all are connected revers light include. I’m surprised they working with wires like they are. But they do.
Correct me if I’m wrong. Or if there’s more to it or start somewhere els if I’m way off.. . I been at it for weeks now. I trust your words trying to follow your lead Threw other post. I’d rather know how to do my own the correct way not just backyard but back yard lol I’m a Transporter and a wanna be mechanic trying to learn because I must right now.
 

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The bad wires in the rear can cause the converter to not lock up, but they will not cause a P0741 code. That code says that the converter didn't lock when the PCM commanded it to lock. If the wires caused the converter to not lock it would be because their input told the PCM not to lock the converter. That would be seen as normal operation, not a problem.

There is something wrong with the torque converter, the seals on the input shaft, or the torque converter clutch control valve in the pump body. If it were something wrong with the solenoid you'd have a code for that, but you do not.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So what would your next move be here? change out the converter/and or converter clutch valve? where is the converter clutch control pump valve? on the valve body or in the converter it self.

Extra info if it’s needed

Converter seems weak with mod to turn on clutch manually . made with mod after I started having issues . converter has little at times no change in drive truck stationary. Before it would Shut my truck off.

Is it at all possible the harness going to the trans solenoid control Harness has a intermediate connection on to converter clutch..corresponding with the bad wires coming from tail lights there is times the truck works normal.
why I ask is at times mostly first attempt to drive it after sitting with truck cooled down.. it works fine For a few miles. Also randomly threw out drive cycles it normally ..

After make changes I am always clearing memory to make sure it’s the same code(s) only come Back up. Or I finally fix a issue and they stay gone ( trans and engine codes )

Also with the o/d light flashing I get overdrive gear as normal just slipping happens in over drive..

Thanks for any and all reply as always...
 

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So what would your next move be here? change out the converter/and or converter clutch valve? where is the converter clutch control pump valve? on the valve body or in the converter it self.
That depends. Is the converter bad, the seals bad, or the valve bad? Don't change the good parts and leave the bad ones in there. WIthout a teardown I can't tell which one(s) is bad.

The valve is in the pump body. There are no valves in the converter itself.

Converter seems weak with mod to turn on clutch manually . made with mod after I started having issues . converter has little at times no change in drive truck stationary. Before it would Shut my truck off.
That points to either the converter or the seals. If it were the valve it would either work or not, it wouldn't be weak.

Is it at all possible the harness going to the trans solenoid control Harness has a intermediate connection on to converter clutch..corresponding with the bad wires coming from tail lights there is times the truck works normal.
If it is the wiring you WILL have a code for an electrical fault. You haven't shown that one of those is here, so no, it isn't the wiring.
why I ask is at times mostly first attempt to drive it after sitting with truck cooled down.. it works fine For a few miles. Also randomly threw out drive cycles it normally ..
That also points to either the converter or the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
That depends. Is the converter bad, the seals bad, or the valve bad? Don't change the good parts and leave the bad ones in there. WIthout a teardown I can't tell which one(s) is bad.

The valve is in the pump body. There are no valves in the converter itself.


That points to either the converter or the seals. If it were the valve it would either work or not, it wouldn't be weak.


If it is the wiring you WILL have a code for an electrical fault. You haven't shown that one of those is here, so no, it isn't the wiring.

That also points to either the converter or the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
That depends. Is the converter bad, the seals bad, or the valve bad? Don't change the good parts and leave the bad ones in there. WIthout a teardown I can't tell which one(s) is bad.

The valve is in the pump body. There are no valves in the converter itself.


That points to either the converter or the seals. If it were the valve it would either work or not, it wouldn't be weak.


If it is the wiring you WILL have a code for an electrical fault. You haven't shown that one of those is here, so no, it isn't the wiring.

That also points to either the converter or the seals.
So if it’s the seals it would be leaking out the front of the bell housing? Is there a way to test the converter in or out of trans? Is my only option to pull it and inspect?
 

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If these seals leak it just leaks from one side of the converter to the other. It does not leak out of the trans.

I don't know of any way other than to pull and inspect. You have already determined that it doesn't work. It is not the wiring, so it is the converter and/or the seals. I don't know where else to go with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
If these seals leak it just leaks from one side of the converter to the other. It does not leak out of the trans.

I don't know of any way other than to pull and inspect. You have already determined that it doesn't work. It is not the wiring, so it is the converter and/or the seals. I don't know where else to go with
I was just unsure what all seals u meant. My trans don’t leak on the out side. Well besides vent tube on top of it gets hot or over filled. I should be good with just changing converter. If it where the othe seals I’d be leaking from the front the of trans also.. The pump is working. Tested with pressure gauge . I tested on side port by the shifter of trans. Same spot I put my temp sensor for banks cab gauge. Anything els I’m missing or to correct me on..

I’ll drop the trans and get a converter installed.
I still may have questions as I go. Dropping trans and changing converter I can handle.

I don’t know much on converters. So wondering what u would feel fit for my type of use.. I mostly run threw the city’s with this truck it’s not for long hauls. I run a Max weight of 25k.. That is truck trailer and payload.. I don’t plan to do much more than my banks trans command Also the banks chip for pcm. Trans command was installed after issues to see what would happen. Took it right back out till things are fixed

Anything u would feel is a really need to add to the trans to help prolong the inevitable break down?

What’s your thoughts on updating this early 99 f450 cab and chassis with PTO to the later setup? Mean the 2000-2003 pcm high pressure oil pump injectors and turbo. Feel free to elaborate or Simple answer is fine.

I’ll get before and after video of how truck shifted. I’ll do some pictures to link to post.

I know i’ve prolly not been one of the easier ones to understand with my randomness 🤪🤯🙃. Really appreciate your time u have given ....
 

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I was just unsure what all seals u meant.
The seals are on the input shaft. When you take the converter off of the shaft you will see the seals that need to be replaced.

I don’t know much on converters. So wondering what u would feel fit for my type of use.....

Anything u would feel is a really need to add to the trans to help prolong the inevitable break down?
I recommend a low stall converter. I have no other changes to make.

What’s your thoughts on updating this early 99 f450 cab and chassis with PTO to the later setup? Mean the 2000-2003 pcm high pressure oil pump injectors and turbo. Feel free to elaborate or Simple answer is fine.
The simple answer is that I am a transmission guy and you're asking engine questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The seals are on the input shaft. When you take the converter off of the shaft you will see the seals that need to be replaced.


I recommend a low stall converter. I have no other changes to make.


The simple answer is that I am a transmission guy and you're asking engine questions.
Right on.. thanks for clarifying the input shaft seal

low stall I’ll check into that. .

Not a engine guy your the transmission guy.. lol 😂. Well put..
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Since trans was hot I planed to clean valve body also I pulled pan off. took out the solenoid pack. And the spacer plate was is ripped. Didn’t stick or anything to the solenoid pack. I put pack on the bench came back to trans. Seen part of the spacer plate was laying on the ground. It was in the correct place but ripped.. Before I rip this trans downs figured I’d ask. will this at all cause my issues also.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well I ended up pulling trans and just digging in. Here is what I found.

The valve body gaskets needed replaced.

The three bolts that screw in to the valve body. The one closest to the front of transmission was completely loose...

Looking at the at the torque converter for heat ring. There isn’t one. The converter I thought was still stock.. I was incorrect. It is remanufactured ( stamped on it )..

A good valve body cleaning will need done really didn’t look bad bad no metal at all in transmission There was the normal Pan magnet 🧲 Metal Dust. Fluid was like new ( changed a few times in last month because of getting hot). 4 full fluid changes in a short time because I know heat destroys this trans. That’s is costly 🤦‍♂️.

input shaft seal.. This seal shows some darker color spots like it was slightly leaking With hot fluid.. was not on the Lower part of the seal it was on top.. 🤔... either it’s a must to change.

I almost didn’t take the pump off. I’m just uncertain what I’m getting into. Was a little
Nervous... after I pulled it. 😁 No reason to Worry must pay attention take some pictures.

What I found was the valve was a bad valve. I got it to move then it stuck again. So I pulled it out. Cleaned the chamber cleaned off the valve and placed it back in.. worked much better but didn’t feel fully correct. So repeated the process while placing it back in. I adding some Lucas transmission fluid lightly on chamber walls with a brush. Also on the on the valve. This time it Worked perfectly. Didn’t pull out amy other valves.. They all seemed to work as they should.

check balls are fun in the valve body. I messed up and lost some...😤..

I don’t think the converter is bad. My information given to you prolly was though.. The trans plug was real bad as well. found corrosion in the torque converter pin.

I had a lot of extra issues from mistakes trying to figure out the problems. I should have just pulled the transmission and dig in..

I had a brake switch problem when I got the truck. If you just let off the brake Peddle it would not fully disengage. Not good as most know. It will burn that trans up quick. This has happened a few times until I fixed the issue with a simple spring..

I believe heat was the Start of all these issues that came up. Well besides my trials and errors.

Lesson(s) learned
buy good ford parts and if u rebuild a harness get the right tools or buy a harness connector!

First things first check fluids..

get the right scanner and start there or stop trying its pointless and a guessing game.

Test the parts you can test there is a few. Line Pressure test, ohm test, voltage test. Check wires for continuity also visually.

after all this then if needed pull the trans. it’s not simple, but it is doable.. 🤞

So now I’m re installing is the a kit That will handle all I need to put back together? is there a kit that will handle from pump seal out to input shaft seal..

i feel the pump body race is a bit warn has some marks my finger nail can catch. I should probably replace that as well. If u think so as well .. what kit Would I need from there out to input shaft seal?

Early 1999 f450 7.3 2x4 cab chassis with Reman with all updates on transmission 4r100 with PTO..

Your thoughts on converter being bad still with what I have found? I think I was not giving correct and/or all information needed. I hope any ways don’t really care to buy a converter. The right ones are pricey and this one isn’t more than 60k on it. Sadly beat by heat but no blue ring. Could it be these valves also the loose bolt on valve body not allowing the converter to work correctly and throwing the code for converter stuck off? I’ll take pics so u can see the locations of issues found. I didn’t detail above on location.

Thanks as always Mark..
 

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The three bolts that were loose, those were visible AFTER removing the valve body? And they screw into the case, right? If so, that was the cause of your problems. Those bolts feed pressure to the clutches. If they are loose they bleed off pressure, and that can cause the trans to get hot and keep the converter from locking properly.

My guess is that the converter is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The three bolts that were loose, those were visible AFTER removing the valve body? And they screw into the case, right? If so, that was the cause of your problems. Those bolts feed pressure to the clutches. If they are loose they bleed off pressure, and that can cause the trans to get hot and keep the converter from locking properly.

My guess is that the converter is fine.
That is what I was hoping to hear and yes those are the bolts I was talking about.. I’ll get seals and check balls And put it back together. Thanks for all your feed back not only on my post. You have helped so many in need. I’ll updated once I take a drive again.. 😁😁😁
 
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