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Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally had one come in the shop recently after not seeing them for a long time. So I decided to shoot a video on the current favorite removal method that is working for us shops out there, since there are a few videos out there but they are all of poor quality. This works about 90% of the time. It seems you will usually break one out of 8 though and for that I have a new video coming out showing in detail the extraction process made simple. I hope this helps as this can be very costly. Most shops charge a half and hour more in additional labor each plug that breaks this can really add up!

 

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Just did one of those dreaded engines last month. 6 of 8 split in half, and found Sea Foam spray was the ticket along with the tool. Installed new one piece plugs from Napa.
 

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I pretty much never break any of the plugs anymore when removing. The process is pretty simple. Get the engine as hot as you can get it. I mean full temp. Shut down the engine and quickly remove 2 coil packs. Use an electric impact and quickly burp in reverse and then forward. I do this 2-3 times. Then full out. Hardly any break using this method.
 

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Sorry, but I wouldn't think of using an impact gun on a spark plug.

I'll take the slow sure way.


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Chuck, an impact is the only real way to get them out. Otherwise they will break, no matter how many chemicals that you try to use-- even with the new whiz bang tool that just hit the market that is supposed to grip the whole plug. Carb cleaner rarely works and is a colossal waste of time and huge mess-- not to mention that the exhaust smell when started is acrid to the point of overloading all but the best shop exhaust removal systems. Watch those plugs aftermarket plugs too. The porcelain likes to eject from the plug in operation.
 

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Forgot to add, that on reinstallation, its best to use a small round brass wire brush to clear out the crap in the plug bore. Blow it out well and make sure that the well and the area where the plugs sealing base is clean and clear. Then torque to spec. If you don't clean you WILL mistorque and have a customer complaining of a fuel smell in the cab.
 

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Just goes to show there's more than one way to skin a cat.


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Sorry, but I wouldn't think of using an impact gun on a spark plug.

I'll take the slow sure way.


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You just have to be smarter than the electric impact. Short burst just to break the carbon bond loose. Out of many, many, many 5.4L 3V spark plugs I had to remove, this method is almost 100% effective. The chemicals just don't seem to work. Even sitting overnight.
 

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I agree, the man is right. Using an impact has proven to be very effective.
 

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Just goes to show there's more than one way to skin a cat.


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There definitely are many ways. :thumbsup:Even with the impact method,I, for one, am still glad that Lisle makes a great extractor tool! Cause its like James said, "ALMOST 100% effective".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There definitely are many ways. :thumbsup:Even with the impact method,I, for one, am still glad that Lisle makes a great extractor tool! Cause its like James said, "ALMOST 100% effective".
Yes I get allot of use out of that tool since the plugs are getting on in age and they just don't seem to come out as easy as they used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
V10's don't have this problem?
The 5.4 3v was the first of this kind, the 4.6 3v came after and the 6.8l 3v after that so they had some time to do engineering fixes so the problem still is there but there is almost never a problem on these two engines not like the 5.4.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Few notes here-
-It is best to do this while the engine is warm, so after soaking the plugs overnight blow out the rest of the solvent and reinstall coils without bolts and run engine till warm.
-Also if your ignition coil boots are brown in color and not black you have the new plug design that does not have this issue.
 
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