[wakeboy247]

Ok so after looking at todays posts alone I feel like we are all having somewhat similar issues but I still feel mine is alittle different.

Heres the problem, when I start my truck, warm or cold, its chugs for a couple of seconds, like it wants to die if i don't touch the gas at all, in the neighborhood of 400 to 600 rpm. it flutters between that range for this time frame, and then it idles like its fine. I've been letting it warm up for a couple minutes and then drive on it easy till in normal temp range and I have no proformance issues that are thowing any flags up. I did feel it surge in rpm like twice in the last 3 weeks its been doing this but it was still cold and Im not sure if maybe I slipped and hit the gas alittle harder.

Heres the history. I don't drive it much now, and I had alot of trouble starting it recently in the cold weather, tristate area of NY. I decided to replace all the glowplugs, the valve cover harnesses, and the glow plug relay, due to the fact it has 196,000 and its been in florida the past few years. at this time b/c i was diving in to get under the valve covers I decided to change the intercooler to a banks intercooler system. at the same time I wanted to also start the head modifications for my veggie system I am getting ready to install. I thought I'd kill a couple birds with one stone, but now that I'm having issues, its making it very hard to pinpoint what is causing the issue.

I was able to change all 8 glow plugs, both harnesses under the valve covers, and the Glow plug relay.
I changed the intercooler, the boost tubes and the manifold infront of the turbo.
I did not get all of my veggie prep done though. I removed the passengerside fuel supply to the head, just under the downpipe/turbo outlet connection. I installed a checkvalve into the head and reinstalled the fuel line to the checkvalve. I had to bend the fuel line a little to line up properly, which concerned me that maybe I decreased the flow by making the radius too small, but i think i'm just being paranoid.
Then I went to install an adapter and 90 fitting in the plug on the driver's side rear head, and ran into a clearance issue with the exhaust manifold, so i reinstalled the plug and called it a day.
those are all the modifications I make in the two day install.

when i started the truck at the shop to drive home, i noticed nothing different at start up. I did notice that my boost gauge was only getting to 15 psi at full throttle where it was getting 23psi before this install. I think the gasket between the turbo and boost tube may not be sealing properly, any other ideas? I did remove the vacum line from the wastegate actuator, and i still only reached 16 psi...

So the real issue, the chugging at start up... if i give it gas for a second when i start up it obviously revs high, and then when it settles it idles normal. it only chugs if i start it and don't touch anything. But it actually starts now first try in the cold, which it hasn't done all winter. and further more there is no smoke at start up. before I changed all this out i was getting lots of whitish smoke, and it took many tries to get it running. I feel like the back pressure valve made more noise when it was warming up prior to everything i did, but i might just be making that up, i still do hear it when i'm driving and its warming up. by the way i have a 4" downpipe to a straight 5" into 6" stacks in the bed, so its loud anyway.

I am very good at my service intervals, oil at 3000, and fuel filter every two oil changes, which i know is too frequent, but i believe it is cheap insurance. so i thought i would change the fuel filter to see if it made a difference. when i removed the filter the prescreen in the cap was fully brown, I'm assuming rust of some sort??? I don't know if this is my issue or not. I have run maybe 50 miles on the new filter and I might take it out this weekend and see if its filled up again.

I don't know if this is a coincedence or is a result of something I changed. does anyone out there have any ideas, or has anyone seen this before? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[tattoocharlie]

did you mess with the hpop or oil delivery system at all?if so you may have air in the system or maybe a small leak thats allowing oil to drain down.this can result in the chugging at start up,due to not having enough oil right away.

 

[tattoocharlie]

you may want to try to purge the oilsystem of air,take it out for a good romp,like 10-15 minute drive and drive it.

 

[Kanman]

I think the gasket between the turbo and boost tube may not be sealing properly, any other ideas?

Look at the down pipes on the back of the motor. If you see soot on those pipes (even a little bit) that's probably where your boost loss is coming from.

As far as the chugging/romps, for winter try switching to a Synthetic Oil. Odds are your chugging will go away or will at least decrease. If you don't drive the truck that often there maybe absolutely nothing you can do to stop the "Romps". The High Pressure Oil System bleeds down over time, and you really cant prevent it on a truck that isn't driven daily.

 

[wakeboy247]

you may want to try to purge the oilsystem of air,take it out for a good romp,like 10-15 minute drive and drive it.

Thank you so much for the response, and I hope it is something like this and not the injectors themselves... as far as the process of purging the air, with taking it fo a good romp do it, or do I need to do an oil change??? is there a nut somewhere that i need to purge the air from?

I did not touch the oil delivery system, but could removing the valva covers to replace glow plugs cause this in anyway, or introduce air to the system? i drove it around for a about an hour today running errands, and each time i start up its happenening, but it just goes away once it gets going. thanks for the advice.

 

[wakeboy247]

Thanks Kanman,

Look at the down pipes on the back of the motor. If you see soot on those pipes (even a little bit) that's probably where your boost loss is coming from.

I will take a look there tomorrow, its supposed to be a little warmer, and i''ll post back my findings. if I don't see any soot, i'll probably try checking that gasket first and hope for the best!

...The High Pressure Oil System bleeds down over time, and you really cant prevent it on a truck that isn't driven daily.

In this case, if I drive it around, and stop, and then start again a short time later, I sould be "charged" with oil at the injectors still and not have this issue right? this is happening everytime i start whether its been sitting for a week or 10 mins....

And if I were to change to synthetic, I was always told never to go back to regular after changing to synthetic, is that true?

 

[tattoocharlie]

removing the valve covers will not introduce air into the system,removing oil lines,etc will.theres no way to purge air except to run the motor.if you havent messed eith the high press oil sys its prob not that.you can verify that the hpop is full of oil by removing the top nut and verify the oil level is 1/2 to 1"below the top.mayb check it before starting it to make sure its not draining back.

 

[Kanman]

In this case, if I drive it around, and stop, and then start again a short time later, I sould be "charged" with oil at the injectors still and not have this issue right? this is happening everytime i start whether its been sitting for a week or 10 mins....


Generally the only time the romps appear is on a dead cold (from sitting over night) engine. I have never seen one get the romps after running into the grocery store for 10 minutes or a couple of hours. Sounds like this isn't the romps and its something else.

You might give this a shot. Locate the ICP on drivers side front of engine. It sits near the front of the head, and has two wires on it. Somebody around here can post a picture link if you have trouble finding it. Unplug the 2 wire sensor from the ICP while the engine is running. Does the engine sound/tone change? We can try and help ya from there.

And if I were to change to synthetic, I was always told never to go back to regular after changing to synthetic, is that true

IMHO, nope not at all. I run synthetic in the winter and dino oil in the summer.

 

[wakeboy247]

well I checked all the hose connections on the intercooler system and found two of the hose clamps were undone. I replaced them b/c when I tried to retighten them they would get almost tight and then miss a hose and open. I after replacing them, I took it for a test drive, and I was back to 22-23 Psi at full throttle on the highway! I happy with the performance again.

As for the weird idle, I didn't have a chance to sheck the oil in the HPOP, but when i started it right after that run on the highway, I didn;t notice it as bad. I will check it in a couple of hours, as its been sitting now, and we'll see. As soon as I get some time to play with the truck again I'll post my findings. Thanks guys

 

[wakeboy247]

Ok so some more food for thought...

I just spoke to the guy I bought the glow plugs, harnesses, and relay from. He said it sounds to him like it could be a glow plug that is not functioning properly, be it the harness or the glug itself. his theory is that, the one cylinder is not getting warme enough causing the rough chugging and quickly warms up and runs normal. I'm going to check the harness with a test light to make sure there is continuity, and try to pinpoint a bad plug. if i find one bad, it would then be a matter of taking off teh valve cover and making sure the glug is properly connected, and determine whether its a plug, harness, or connection issue.

Does that sound accurate to any of you guys, does it sound possible?

 

[Kanman]

I would still try switching to a synthetic oil for winter time. That takes a whole let less time than pulling valve covers.

What the former owner has described sounds vaguely, very vaguely like cackle. You can search for cackle on this board, and read for days about it. The only real solution (for cackle) is an aftermarket fuel system from DI or ITP which will definitely quiet your truck. You would then swap out the #8 long lead injector for a non long lead injector. I can almost guarantee this is a dead end for your current problem as it wont fix the romps your truck has. Doing the oil change to synthetic more than likely will fix it.

After rereading your post I noticed you said you recently changed your fuel filter and it was nasty with brown stuff on it. Maybe one more fuel filter change is in order? Although it does sound like its running much better than previously. You can get a can of SeaFoam and dump that into the fuel filter housing. What I do; pull the fuel filter and dump 1/2 bottle the SeaFoam right into the canister. If you see gunk in the canister use that first half bottle with a qtip or soft bristle brush and scrub all the icky till its loose and then using the yellow lever dump it out. If its really dirty I use Isopropyl Alcohol (about $1 a bottle at WalMart) to flush and flush if needed. Dump the 2nd half of SF in and start the truck and let it run all that SF through it. This will help clean out any remaining gunk in the canister and clean the injectors.

BTW, I have seen trucks (many trucks) running on only 4 or 5 glow plugs. They fire right up, and its doubtful that 1 bad glow plug would cause the romps.

 

[wakeboy247]

so someone just mentioned it sounded like the injection control pressure sensor??? does this sound accurate? at $170 for the part I don't want to try it unless you guys seem to think that sounds right. I am planning on switching to synthetic soon tho.... I just wasn't sure if that was something that malfunctions when its time to replace, or all out fails completely when its need attention. Any input?