A short in the fan clutch, or if the wiring harness to the fan clutch gets damaged, that electrical short can pull down the PCM's VPOWER voltage, which will cause issues with the transmission range sensor. Bad output from the range sensor can prevent the PCM from activating the ground to the starter relay.

Often times the wiring to the fan clutch is not supported properly and the fan blades catch the wiring causing damage. That happens when people delete their stator, because the stator supports the "fitting" that keeps the wiring out of the fan blades.

It would be helpful to see code numbers.

 

I know I wish I would have got the codes off the truck. I know I tried to clear them but they would clear. Also I’m not sure what you are referencing by stator.

 

It is also called the inner fan shroud

See pics in thread below:

Inner fan shroud /stator this may end the debate *PICS*

ive been on here about 2 days deciding to either remove or keep my inner fan shroud. there is tons of threads here and other sites with differrent opinions well i pulled my very early (maybe one of the very first made in 05) 2005 shroud out and what i found is totally differrent then any other...

www.thedieselstop.com

 

I’m not sure if I have that or not. I know I haven’t removed it but I will check when home to see for sure. Thank you! Also not sure what 300 degree fluid will do to the interred of the trans but I’m definitely worried about it being cooked from that as well.

 

Anything past 230 is bad... seals start to harden, fluid starts to cook off and varnish... 300 is very bad, your going to need a rebuild

 

You're living in the 1960's. That is NOT true for a 2007 5R110W. There is NO damage from a short time at 300°F. I've personally tested these transmissions as high as 320°F. Fluid didn't cook off, seals didn't harden (and we tore it down to confirm,) NOTHING bad happened.

A few years before this we supplied 4R100 transmissions to an off road race team. During one race the cooling fans for the transmission failed. They were leading the race at the time and didn't have a backup fan anywhere nearby, so the decision was made to just keep going. The trans temp gauge only read to 325°F. The gauge was pegged for HOURS. The race was won and the trans never missed a beat.

We always got the trans back after each race to tear it down for analysis. The only problem with this trans was that the solder had melted out of the solenoids. Solder melts at about 450°F. The seals didn't harden, the fluid didn't cook off, and there was no varnish.

 

Narmalee, that’s what I was afraid of. I just can’t imagine the internals aren’t compromised after that even though it was only 2 miles above 250.
Does anyone here have any experience buy a transmission already rebuilt from some of the transmission places online?

 

You should wait for a response from @Mark Kovalsky .

Years ago he commented on this topic and said that short exposure to 300 degrees wasn't necessarily a guarantee of seal failure.

My concern has always been that in some specific internal locations, the temperature could have gotten quite a bit hotter.

Also, these engine and transmissions have their share of wiring issues. Temperatures that high will almost certainly accelerate issues with wiring. But with only a short exposure - maybe you will get lucky.

The main issue you have now is to identify the root cause of your problems. I tend to not think that 2.5 qts low was the main issue.

Wish we had codes, but you really should check that fan clutch wiring.

 

Bismic, thank you I appreciate all the help. I understand the wiring issues you are referencing. I found it odd the transmission started acting up, stuck in 5th and has a no crank situation now. Also the batteries were dead after 30 minutes even though the truck had been running for an hour prior. Also, I find it very odd that at idle in park the engine sounds like it has a load on it as well as the TFT gradually climbing.

 

Any code / trouble lights active?

 

Narmalee, yes there are. I didn’t record them. I tried clearing the codes and some did clear put some stayed. Most referencing transmission codes and then a fan clutch code. My tow haul light was flashing first and then after restarting the truck and clearing the codes, or attempting too, the check engine light then came on. I will be getting the codes this evening when I get home.

 

Ok so I have gotten the codes from the truck. It now doesn’t have the fan clutch code that it has when I first checked the codes. Also, I unplugged the fan clutch thinking I have seen somewhere to do that to diagnose a no crank issue but I still have a no crank issue. I tried to turn off the fan on the climate control and none of the buttons respond either. Anyways the codes are as followed:

P0148- fuel delivery error
P0706- transmission range sensor A circuit range/performance
P0707- Transmission range sensor A circuit low
P1702- transmission range sensor circuit intermittent
P1783- transmission over temperature condition
I’m not sir which range controls what but it appears maybe an electrical issue? Hopefully this makes since to some of the members with more experience with the 5r110. Of course, thank you again for any help or insight.

 

P0148: Fuel Delivery Error: Power Monitor Activated. actual RPM's exceed requested RPM's (by the PCM) which can be caused by an alternative fuel source, CKP or CMP interference (electrical) or a faulty PCM.

Just a curiosity - how healthy are your batteries?

 

Not the best, not the worst. When it is warm outside they will hold charge for a while, say a month or two if the truck never gets started. During the winter I keep a battery tender on them as they tend to be low after a week or two and I don’t drive the truck too often unless towing. The volt meter was reading 13.8-14 at time of failure while the engine was running.

 

That voltage indicates the alternator is working, but you sure want to have over 11 volts when you are troubleshooting. The closer to a full charge of 12.6v the better.

You might try unplugging the center PCM plug and see if you can get a crank.

 

Ok I will go try that. Thank you!

 

Just went and tried to get it to crank with the center pcm plug off and it wouldn’t crank. The volt meter is ready 12.1-12.2 with key on.

 

You aren't going to get it to crank with a TRS (Range Sensor) not working. I was hoping that something was dragging down the power to the Range Sensor (among a few other circuits), but it looks like an issue within the transmission - probably a wiring issue in there since you have 3 circuit codes.

 

Hey Mark thank you for commenting. The information you shared makes me feel slightly better. Do the DTC codes shown direct you towards anything specific such as possibly an internal harness issue, Ranger sensor itself issue, or possibly a mechanical internal issue? I find it weird that a range sensor would cause the transmission to start heating up even while idling in park. Thank you again!

 

The codes show that there is an electrical issue with the TRS or the wiring to the TRS. The PCM can't tell the difference, you have to do diagnostics to tell which one is bad.

The TRS will not cause the issue you have. It could be a bad solenoid, or internal leakage, or a damaged trans.

 

Maybe a wiring issue was messing with the temperature sensor and it wasn't giving you an accurate value?

 

Bismic, I believe it was accurate because approx. 4-6 weeks ago I installed a 6.4 pan and filter with new fluid. When I stopped with the high temperature issue and Checked the fluid, it is now brownish pink. Also the dipstick itself was very hot. They temperature also slowly ran like something was bound up and making heat while idling in park.

 

Assuming you know the fan works, then I am tapped out on ideas. Glad you got Mark's attention, you can get the best help from him.

 

I believe the fan works. I never tried it on this particular trip because the weather was so cold it was not needed. The endings never got above 202. It mainly ran around 190-192

 

Ok. Looks like I have some electrical things to try and diagnose.
I started the truck this morning after clearing the codes on it last night. The truck started right up when I jumped out the starter. It went directly into high idle but it wasn’t the normal high idle routine where the truck idles for a few seconds or so then ow ramps it’s idle speed up. It just snapped right up to high idle and then it sounded like it was put in gear after 10-15 seconds, still mainly high idle rpm.

 

When checking vref to the TRS, I need to unplug the front plug on the PCM, and turn the key on, then check the #21 pin on the pcm itself. It should have 12v correct?

 

I don't have a diagram of the PCM pin numbers handy.

I backprobe the connector (C1381b). It is pin #1 on that connector and it should be 12V. Pink wire with white stripe.

 

bismic, you are say, if I understand this correctly that I need to prove the connector at the transmission? Which is c1381b?

 

C1381b is the PCM connector nearest the radiator.