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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys, I purchased an 2006 6.0 five weeks ago. I just had the FICM out to do a bulletproof on EGR cooler. I'm now having a hard start when the truck is cold and warm. I did a Forscan on it to test ICP, IPR and FICM. I attached an image of the oscilloscope of the test. Everything looks to be in spec except I don't get FICM sync until it starts.

I just replaced the batteries yesterday as they were both run down when I got it. At this point I'm pretty sure it's the FICM, but wanted to see if I you all agree with my reading of the tests? It didn't do this before the EGR work, I check that all the connectors are snugged up into the FICM and the ICP pressure seem to be in spec. the only thing I can think of is that the run down batteries fried the FICM before I could get them swapped out...

thanks for any help you guys can give.
 

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I think you're on the right track with the FICM. Can't tell from your pic but ydo you have FICM Main Power voltage listed? We always want to see >=48 volts but, to make things even more confusing, you can have good voltage but the logic side of the FICM can be bad.

It's an expensive part to swap out without knowing for sure. Give Ed @ FICMREPAIR.com a call. He might be able to give you some advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FICM help

I think you're on the right track with the FICM. Can't tell from your pic but ydo you have FICM Main Power voltage listed? We always want to see >=48 volts but, to make things even more confusing, you can have good voltage but the logic side of the FICM can be bad.
I pulled the cover on the FICM and verified that I have 48.5 V KOEO at the unit. I also re-seated the FICM by pulling it out and reinstalling.

I then ran Forscan again with CMP/CKP showing no sync.

Could a low batter condition for a few days of starting and stopping, while working on things, cause the FICM Logics to go bad?
 

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I think you're on the right track with the FICM. Can't tell from your pic but ydo you have FICM Main Power voltage listed? We always want to see >=48 volts but, to make things even more confusing, you can have good voltage but the logic side of the FICM can be bad.
I pulled the cover on the FICM and verified that I have 48.5 V KOEO at the unit. I also re-seated the FICM by pulling it out and reinstalling.

I then ran Forscan again with CMP/CKP showing no sync.

Could a low batter condition for a few days of starting and stopping, while working on things, cause the FICM Logics to go bad?
Not sure about the low battery condition and it's impact on the FICM. I do know that that is one of the root causes of FICM failure, just don't know if it impacts the logic side or the power side. Like I said earlier, Ed at FICMREPAIR is a good guy and can probably give you some info.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Not sure about the low battery condition and it's impact on the FICM. I do know that that is one of the root causes of FICM failure, just don't know if it impacts the logic side or the power side. Like I said earlier, Ed at FICMREPAIR is a good guy and can probably give you some info.
I spoke to someone at FICMREPAIR and they were helpful. They suggested, because of no start hot, that my issue was more likely the STC fitting, dummy plugs and standpipe. They said the FICM no sync was more likely just a product of the oil leak in the fuel rail. It seems like a maintenance item and pretty straight forward thanks to some video that DieselTechRon made on the procedures.

I'll check for leaks via the ICP port, but i'm convinced that the guy at FICMREPAIR is right. I went ahead and got the parts on order for less that $200.

I'll check back in after I get the STC, standpipe and dummy plugs done.

Thanks for the help here too.
 

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Not sure about the low battery condition and it's impact on the FICM. I do know that that is one of the root causes of FICM failure, just don't know if it impacts the logic side or the power side. Like I said earlier, Ed at FICMREPAIR is a good guy and can probably give you some info.
I spoke to someone at FICMREPAIR and they were helpful. They suggested, because of no start hot, that my issue was more likely the STC fitting, dummy plugs and standpipe. They said the FICM no sync was more likely just a product of the oil leak in the fuel rail. It seems like a maintenance item and pretty straight forward thanks to some video that DieselTechRon made on the procedures.

I'll check for leaks via the ICP port, but i'm convinced that the guy at FICMREPAIR is right. I went ahead and got the parts on order for less that $200.

I'll check back in after I get the STC, standpipe and dummy plugs done.

Thanks for the help here too.
Be VERY careful not to drop anything into the cavity where the HPOP sits. I'd keep a long magnet probe handy just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Be VERY careful not to drop anything into the cavity where the HPOP sits. I'd keep a long magnet probe handy just in case.
thanks for the heads up. I do have a magnet and I watched DieselTechRon's video describing the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
a quick update and question. The question first; my STC fitting had a steel cover plate over the fitting. Should this be reinstalled with the new fitting? Picture attached.

Now the update; I found that the screen on the IPR was torn because I had not installed the washers properly when I changed them recently. I believe a new screen will fix my issue as there were no washers on the tip of the IPR.

thanks for the help as usual.
 

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That bracket was Ford's attempt to resolve the STC fitting failures. It certainly helped, but Ford eventually realized that the Navistar one-piece fitting was the permanent solution. I think they (Ford) only did the bracket for a few years.

If you do install the one-piece fitting, I would like to have the bracket if you don't mind (I would pay shipping). It helps align the one-piece fitting better than the plastic version that comes with the one-piece fitting.

I already have a steel bracket for my STC fitting jobs, but know someone that would like to have it.

If you want to hang on to it or try to sell it, I understand!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That bracket was Ford's attempt to resolve the STC fitting failures. It certainly helped, but Ford eventually realized that the Navistar one-piece fitting was the permanent solution. I think they (Ford) only did the bracket for a few years.

If you do install the one-piece fitting, I would like to have the bracket if you don't mind (I would pay shipping). It helps align the one-piece fitting better than the plastic version that comes with the one-piece fitting.

I already have a steel bracket for my STC fitting jobs, but know someone that would like to have it.

If you want to hang on to it or try to sell it, I understand!
I figure that it fit and seemed like a little bit of extra insurance so I put it back in with the new fitting. Sorry.

But, thank you for answering the question.
 
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