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Have you look at the oil cooler relocation yet, does sux putting out the money but it worth it if ur planning on keeping the truck.
I have, very clean and very nice install. If I had the 6.0 still, i'd invest in it for my personal pickup. If they would release something for the 6.4, i'd be very tempted to put it on my truck.
 

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Guys, be easy on MDblackd. You have to remember that the '03 has far (way far) fewer issues with the EGR than later models. I know many, many '03s that are running with 200K on them, some with way more than 200K and not one HG problem. They all have towed extremely heavy on a regular basis as well.

That does not mean all '03s are automatically bulletproof if they are stock, but it does speak a lot to the core problem and the results ending in a HG issue.

I have one of the 200K plus on OEm gaskets and no studs. No issues, healthy oil cooler and have run it 200K without the Coolant filter and to be honest, have not done proper maintenance of the cooling system. Bought the truck with 25K on it and I have never changed the coolant (will remedy that soon when I flush and add my coolant filter).

My point is that I think driving style and year model are primary drivers to the issues. Not a guarantee on avoiding failures, but I think it is something to consider.
 

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Update: the truck is in the shop for bullet proofing including STUDS. All of this started due to sticky vanes due to my driving style, L'il Ole Man. :lol:

Anyway, my assumption is that I have one of the better 03s, and am just starting to see some of the early issues at 78K miles. In starting the bullet proofing I installed a SCT livewire, accidentally installed (truly) the
street Tune and got a feel of what this truck was capable. When I went back to stock the vanes were much improved. :no:

I haven't talked to the shop owner yet, but expect him to find the Y-pipe leaking, and several minor issues due to age. Included in the ~$5K price will be new belt, hoses, Y-pipe, heads checked and machined, OEM HGs, BD or Sinister EGR delete kit (depends on what is in stock at supplier when ordered), new fluids (I provided a case of Zerex ) and a new alternator (also provided by me). My temps were good before going into shop so don't expect to need an oil cooler after flush.

In the end, I will have no qualms about taking the truck on a cross country jaunt as I did in 1st first year. On that trip it got 16.81 MPG hand calculated doing ~75-80 MPH average for ~2,200 miles.

Looking forward to getting the EXCELLENT ole truck back, and having the confidence I previously had. AT 71 I intend to get at least 10 more good years out of this ole body and the truck too. Passing it off to my Grandson is the next goal.
 

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Update: the truck is in the shop for bullet proofing including STUDS. All of this started due to sticky vanes due to my driving style, L'il Ole Man. :lol:

Anyway, my assumption is that I have one of the better 03s, and am just starting to see some of the early issues at 78K miles. In starting the bullet proofing I installed a SCT livewire, accidentally installed (truly) the
street Tune and got a feel of what this truck was capable. When I went back to stock the vanes were much improved. :no:

I haven't talked to the shop owner yet, but expect him to find the Y-pipe leaking, and several minor issues due to age. Included in the ~$5K price will be new belt, hoses, Y-pipe, heads checked and machined, OEM HGs, BD or Sinister EGR delete kit (depends on what is in stock at supplier when ordered), new fluids (I provided a case of Zerex ) and a new alternator (also provided by me). My temps were good before going into shop so don't expect to need an oil cooler after flush.

In the end, I will have no qualms about taking the truck on a cross country jaunt as I did in 1st first year. On that trip it got 16.81 MPG hand calculated doing ~75-80 MPH average for ~2,200 miles.

Looking forward to getting the EXCELLENT ole truck back, and having the confidence I previously had. AT 71 I intend to get at least 10 more good years out of this ole body and the truck too. Passing it off to my Grandson is the next goal.
Absolutely did the right thing. I hope you have really good luck with your new found baby. I am extremely interested in how it runs. Im putting mine in the shop in about a week after I receive another part or two. Let us know how it comes out. When will it be finished? Good luck.
 

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Blackrod, it should be ready in ~1 week. As I said earlier, I trust my shop. As they have a 1,500 HP Duramax of his own, and work on lots of Fords. They and Fords are very popular down this way.
 

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Studs and EGR

Update: the truck is in the shop for bullet proofing including STUDS.
This is directed to the OP as much as to MDblackd...
I'm glad you are getting your studs done.
I wouldn't drive a 6.0 out of town without head studs and an EGR kit - regardless of the mileage. Ford has a history of headbolt / gasket failures that goes back decades. And Ford created this problem in the 6.0 when they modified the original VT365. The International engine does not blow head gaskets.

I'm not sure if I would do a EGR delete or a bulletbproof EGR. There are several aftermarket EGR kits that solve the leaking issue without a delete. I guess ultimately if would come down to preference and local emissions laws as to a delete or upgrade.

And, I do agree with your mechanic regarding the 6.4 vs 6.0.
One thing I see the 6.4s in the shop for all the time, and I don't see discussed, is cam shafts. And since the cam shaft has to come out of the rear of the block, it is a time-intensive (meaning expensive) repair.
 

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Update status. I still do not have the truck back. Monday will be 4 weeks. When apart they found the LH valve cover to be so rusted it would not seal. It has taken til today? to get the part. Even though the truck has been ready (except for the valve cover) for well over 2 weeks, it has not left the mechanics garage. If the part does arrive today, I should get the truck tomorrow.

He lost money having the truck up on the lift for the extra time. You can guess, even though this is not my DD, a thousand needs for it have arisen in the past 4 weeks.
 

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6.0 Upgrades To Do or Not to Do -- Do It IMHO

Greetings
As the owner of a 2006 F-350 XL i totally would move the oil cooler out of the block, it was a stupid idea and horrible design. My oil cooler ruptured the other direction and i ended up with oil whipped into the coolant system. As you can imagine getting all that out was a huge pain in the rear. I have found nothing short or very hot water mixed with simple green and a heavy duty degreaser and a product called Oil Eater.
This was by far the most extensive tear-down i have had to do, Ford says replace every rubber hose in the coolant system to resolve the issue and if i have not been so very pissed off i may have done that. it has taken me three months to get the goo out of the engine and coolant systems not to mention the money.
Even doing the work myself it was $4k to get it back to where i can turn the key. I had Maryland Diesel make the oil cooler relocation plate, external oil filter, external air / oil cooler and i did not do the EGR delete but did do the Sinister EGR cooler. my thought was that once the OEM oil cooler was remove the problem was also resolved with EGR coolers issues and i wanted the EGR functionality to assist warming the engine to proper operating temps etc.

2006 Ford F350 Super Duty 73,000 Miles a the time of repair
Blue spring upgrade
Maryland Performance Diesel (Van Housing Oil Filter)
Maryland Performance Diesel Oil Cooler Relocation Plate (No Longer available)
MKM Customs Turbo upgrade Kit (Turbo Feed Line, Stand Pipe and Drain, Dummy Plugs, etc.)
ARP Studs
Machined the Heads
Sinister Diesel EGR Cooler
OEM Head Gaskets
Summit Racing Injector Seal Kit
STC HPOP Fitting Update
Degas Bottle Cap
 

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Greetings
my thought was that once the OEM oil cooler was remove the problem was also resolved with EGR coolers issues and i wanted the EGR functionality to assist warming the engine to proper operating temps etc.
It doesn't matter if you relocate the cooler to the passenger seat. If you don't fix the coolant problem, you're doomed to repeat the failure with an OEM cooler.

The EGR system doesn't help warm the vehicle. The valve doesn't even open until the ECT hits a minimum temp.
 

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Hey. I'm looking at getting a 2006 F-250 with 171,xxx miles on it. Original head gaskets, HPOP, FICM, Oil Cooler, and EGR. Took it for a test drive both off and on road and it rides just fine. What are ya'lls thoughts?
 

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That is really good that it runs well, however, you are in that gray area that everyone talks about where this truck may need HGs, etc. Get it cheap enough where you can afford to bulletproof it. Btw, what are they asking for it. Dont fall too deeply in love with it yet.
 

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You mentioned bullet proof and while I've looked at different components to do that (EGR delete, HPOP, Studs, Gaskets, and etc) what is the order of importance? Normal maintenance (changing fluids/filters, etc) is a big thing to me so besides that what is the order of importance? Thank you!
 

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$13,994 is the price on it.
$14K is about mid point for CC, SWB, SRW with 172,000 on the clock.

I wouldn't be real excited about this truck. Not saying it's bad... but it could become a big money pit real quick.

Have a very serious conversation with the dealer about their warranty policy.


You mentioned bullet proof and while I've looked at different components to do that (EGR delete, HPOP, Studs, Gaskets, and etc) what is the order of importance? Normal maintenance (changing fluids/filters, etc) is a big thing to me so besides that what is the order of importance? Thank you!
For me, that would be HeadStuds and gaskets first, followed very closely by EGR. Those are the things that will cost you the most to get her back on the road when they fail.
 

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The dealership that owns it doesn't have a warranty on it. It's a "As Is" truck on the lot. I may be able to swindle them into a warranty but again... I really don't know
 

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Hey Guys! I am getting ready to put a new oil cooler on my F-250. Should I go with a Factory Oil Cooler or a Bulletproof diesel one? And also if i go wight he factory one would y'all recommend doing a Coolant Filtration Kit? And also, Does anyone know where I can get a manual for my 2004 Ford F250? I plan of doing the head gaskets while I'm in there. Someone said something about Mitchell?
Depends on where you live.
 
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