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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having an issue with my truck don't know if it's the starter or electrical problem if I go to the store and back and if the truck is warm it won't start no more it has to be cold to start what can it be
 

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yeah, you got some reading to do, "hot no start".

You're gonna need a way to read the computer, if you have time to mail order an Elm327 Bluetooth adapter and if you have a smart phone or tablet, then Torque Pro for android or I think Forscan has been gaining popularity but I'm not familiar with it to say.

If you can afford to wait for that, you will have time to read a lot, to begin isolating the real problem. Don't start swapping parts without doing that first.

Your truck is a hobby, have fun with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
About 2 years ago changed egr, oil cooler head studs to arp and gasket so I think it's none of that but I could be wrong so I think. I have an obdII scanner when I installed banks power and shows no codes.
 

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As Idahoser stated, there is ALOT of reading out there on this hot no start topic, and it can be alot of things. I recently had this issue and already had the Torque Pro App and OBDII reader, which definately helped me out in figuring out my problem. In my case, it was a leak in the High Pressure Oil system, the STC fitting. When the truck was cold and the oil was thick, it would fire right up after the glow plugs cycled, but once the engine had a good heat soak and the oil was at operating temperature I would have problems. On a hot start I was not seeing the ICP readings break 450 PSI, the motor needs to see 500 to start. If you get the Torque Pro App, I would highly suggest buying the $4.99 one and don't even waste the time on the free version. Would also recommend the BAFX bluetooth ODII reader, as alot of the basic ELM 327 readers don't have the ability to read the CAN Protocol used in these trucks and you won't be able to monitor transmission fluid temp, torque converter lock up, or gear position. Hit up youtube and check out DieselTechRon's vids too, that guy was a WEALTH of knowledge and good education.
 

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His post leaves questions unanswered... he asked if it could be the starter which in my mind makes me want to ask if the no start condition means "no crank."
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so it's not the starter I took it to the shop and found out there's a leak inside hpop or possibly an oring of an injector. In the morning turns on fine but has a hot no start, it doesn't build pressure. It only cranks up to 300 psi.
 

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Are you trying to fix the issue or do you intend to have the shop do it?

Trying to fix things yourself requires retrieving engine parameters (not just codes). Also, most of the cheap code readers don't read codes very well (some of them actually retrieve very few codes). What kind of OBDII scan tool do you have?

Also, to start tracking the problem down, you need to know what year engine you have. The problem areas for an 03 and early 04 are different than that of the late 04, and different from the 05 and up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's a 2006 engine I don't have the tools to fix and too many screws that have to be torqued down it's a little too much for my knowledge. I did want to break it down though.
 

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Torque Pro is a good tool to read engine parameters. It falls short on thoroughly retrieving codes.

Since it is already at a shop, then there isn;t much that you can do, but a hot no-start is not uncommon for the 05-07 model years.

Typically it is Dummy Plugs, StandPipe, and/or STC fitting (HPOP discharge fitting). That said, it could also be the injector o-rings, an o-ring in the oi rail, or even an issue w/ the IPR valve.

As mentioned above, an air test is how to track down the specific problem. If it were me and I still had the old dummy plugs and standpipes, I would go ahead and change them to the updated part.

I would also install the one-piece HPOP discharge fitting (replace the STC fitting) if it were still installed. These parts just fail too often for me to be happy about future reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bismic those are my plans to upgrade everything. I was also planning on buying the bulletproof hpop but don't have that kind of money right now . So stock upgraded parts will be for now. Thank you guys
 

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To be honest, not sure you need to replace the HPOP. If it's a 2006 motor, it has a much more reliable HPOP than the early year 6.0's. The other things already mentioned are a must, starting with the STC Fitting, in my opinion.
 

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Mine (2007 model year F250, but all built built in 2006) did exactly the same thing---turned out to be a failed/failing plug O ring in the high pressure rails that feed the injectors after I suspected the HPOP and possibly the STC connectors. The shop fixed it as i didn't have time to screw around with it. I got off paying a LOT less than I suspected it would cost me, but then I had a VERY competent and VERY honest shop do the job (TNT in Sparks Reno area) NV do the troubleshooting and repair.
 
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