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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 6.4 about 2 months ago and I've been noticing recently high oil temp. It started out just above average but now it's up to 235-245 oil temps with 198-206 coolant temps(interstate) I origanlly thought there was one solution, replace the oil cooler... But after reading another article there is possibility for an airlock in the system causing high oil temps? It would make a lot of sense, my radiator is leaking I have mishimoto radiator that started leaking 3-4 weeks ago I've filled it one time (one gallon wasn't quite enough to fill it) and they didn't seem to improve at all, then I read there's a certain tool to preasurize it that I know I didn't use and now maybe I have a airlock somewhere? I drove it to Dallas and back which was 6 hours and on the way there I was pretty much between 220-230 on way back it was 235-245 so do I just need to flush the coolant system then have it refilled or replace the oil cooler or where do I start?
 

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How many miles are on the truck? Has the oil cooler been changed before?

I still think the oil cooler is the main problem, but the leaky radiator isn't helping. I'd be contacting Mishimoto about the warranty on that radiator; they're pretty stand up about it and the new one they just released is a little bit different design.

So I would get the radiator warrantied, and while you're waiting on that change you're t-stats, degas bottle cap, and the oil cooler. When my radiator started leaking, I didn't have high EOT temps, but who's to say yours isn't doing this. They all work together and it may just get the "bubble" there. Generally on these trucks the air bubble travels to the timing cover where your water pump is, causes cavitation, and wrecks the front cover of the engine.
 

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I'm a big fan of airlift tools... I wasn't until I used one, and now that's the only way I'll fly...

Mr. Cody nailed it, except for one little thing I'd have to diverge from: I'd not do a replacement oil cooler, I'd install a BPD half kit, and never worry again about oil cooling.
 

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I'm a big fan of airlift tools... I wasn't until I used one, and now that's the only way I'll fly...

Mr. Cody nailed it, except for one little thing I'd have to diverge from: I'd not do a replacement oil cooler, I'd install a BPD half kit, and never worry again about oil cooling.

That would be ideal yes^ As would I, if your wanting to be done with it. If that is an option for you pocket book. If you want more info on the BPD kits, shoot me a PM. :thup:
 

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Cody, you're closer to this subject than I am, so you can clarify:

Is it a true statement to say after all is said and done, that a half kit is cheaper than replacing the oe cooler, and specifically because the labor aspect? A BPD is about a four to five hour install where a oe cooler is ten plus, no?
 

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Cody, you're closer to this subject than I am, so you can clarify:

Is it a true statement to say after all is said and done, that a half kit is cheaper than replacing the oe cooler, and specifically because the labor aspect? A BPD is about a four to five hour install where a oe cooler is ten plus, no?
Well i feel embarrassed, for some reason I thought this was under the 6.0 section, i'm having a bad case of the Monday's on Tuesday's:sick: :jester: 6.4's are 11hrs and 6.0's are 4 hours w/ an egr kit

Regardless, I would agree with everything Drew has stated on a 6.4. In the long run, it's much more justifiable than going through the process of replacing the OEM cooler. I kick myself all the time when I replaced mine that this kit wasn't available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What if it completely fails? Will it be fine as long as I have this after market kit? Will it make adding a aftermarket oil filter easier? I was thinking about doing the remote oil filter set up, but if not it's not a huge deal if I don't replace the oil cooler is there a chance it completely clogs and hurts something else? I have 150 k on the truck with 300 Spartan tunes that I run as the dd but I try to keep my foot off of it most the time.. And my dash daq was reading that for me how much is the kit vs cooler I'll be doing the labor myself but would like to know what replacing the cooler involves vs just adding the aftermarket one
 

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the BPD Half Kit removes the factory filter and replaces it with a spin on filter they want you to locate behind the front bumper on the drivers side...

The thing will work in conjunction with your OE oil cooler, or, it will work if the OE cooler outright fails. Most folks who use this kit report oil temps 5~8* COOLER than ECT's. It's super easy to install (for what it is), and it eliminates any future concern... once you've done this, you're done worrying about oil cooling.

The ONLY downside is that Oil can be 'too cool' during winter months... you really need that oil to reach ~200* or so at least every few days to burn contaminants off- namely, water accumulation.. but there is a way around this that I heard through the grapevine some time back BPD was going to implement/include, which was a thermostatic bypass valve set to somewhere around 195* (matching the coolant temps)... I don't think it's added, as of yet, but it's something you can do yourself easily. Address that, and it's truly bullet proof.
 

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the BPD Half Kit removes the factory filter and replaces it with a spin on filter they want you to locate behind the front bumper on the drivers side...

The thing will work in conjunction with your OE oil cooler, or, it will work if the OE cooler outright fails. Most folks who use this kit report oil temps 5~8* COOLER than ECT's. It's super easy to install (for what it is), and it eliminates any future concern... once you've done this, you're done worrying about oil cooling.

The ONLY downside is that Oil can be 'too cool' during winter months... you really need that oil to reach ~200* or so at least every few days to burn contaminants off- namely, water accumulation.. but there is a way around this that I heard through the grapevine some time back BPD was going to implement/include, which was a thermostatic bypass valve set to somewhere around 195* (matching the coolant temps)... I don't think it's added, as of yet, but it's something you can do yourself easily. Address that, and it's truly bullet proof.
The thermostatic bypass is pretty straight forward to add on and could easily be retrofitted if you're worried about temps and you live in a cold climate area. On the 6.0 kit, it goes on the inlet side of the cooler itself, and then routes the by pass tube and t-'s with the outlet of the cooler. Basically goes right around it until the EOT reaches 195. BPD is working on a full kit like the 6.0's for the 6.4's and that's one of the reasons why they didn't add the bypass valve to the half kit yet. But like I said, you could retrofit it pretty easily. I'm hoping to have at least a half kit on my truck before this winter if everything goes as planned. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So what micron will the new filters be able to filter out? Because I was half tempted to buy the remote oil cooler just so I could get better filtration and possibly extend oil drains and is they're any possibility that my oil cooler "blows" up? I thought I heard about one someone on some forms oil cooler failing but not just stoping flow literally failing and puking all its fluid out is there I play I can "block" it of with or let coolant flow thru regularly? How much does this kit cost and is it what most people do when there oil cooler stops working? I just want to make sure there are no side affects to what seems like putting a bandaid on it..
 

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it's what most informed people do when their oil cooler fails.... it's a lot better an option of installing a new OE cooler, that will fail all over again... multiple failures are often, anyway, and because folks don't thoroughly flush their coolant system when they put in a new OE cooler..

the kit is around $1300 iirc... it's worth every penny.. an OE cooler is around $300, but five hours install compared to 10~12, it more than makes up the difference..

spin on filter is a 25um 95% filter, as is standard... the cooler has a provision for adding a bypass filter, which I highly recommend... I use a amsoil eabp90 on mine, which filters down to 2um absolute @ 99%.... my oil doesn't even start to turn until around the 2k mile mark, and then only a slight tint of black... I just did a change this weekend after 12k miles... I can post the blackstone report if you're interested..

this ain't no band-aide.... the BPD half kit SOLVES the issue once and for all... replacing the OE cooler is just kicking the can down the road, again...
 

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So what micron will the new filters be able to filter out? Because I was half tempted to buy the remote oil cooler just so I could get better filtration and possibly extend oil drains and is they're any possibility that my oil cooler "blows" up? I thought I heard about one someone on some forms oil cooler failing but not just stoping flow literally failing and puking all its fluid out is there I play I can "block" it of with or let coolant flow thru regularly? How much does this kit cost and is it what most people do when there oil cooler stops working? I just want to make sure there are no side affects to what seems like putting a bandaid on it..
It uses a WIX 51832 filter. IIRC That filter is a 8.5"h x ~4.1" diameter filter.

Since this system acts like a secondary or a bypass, it does exactly act. One fails, it'll by pass and pick up the slack. For pricing shoot me a pm :thup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So is there any other kits close to this that don't cost 1300 bucks? That's pretty steep. Is 1300 installed?
 

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not that I know of.... and though there are some notions floating around on other ways to do it, I would only trust an outfit that thoroughly tested theirs before marketing... which BPD did...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Couldn't you just buy the sinister or emote oil filter and then get a cooler mount the cooler and do a little bad and run lines from filter to cooler?
 

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I bought a 6.4 about 2 months ago and I've been noticing recently high oil temp. It started out just above average but now it's up to 235-245 oil temps with 198-206 coolant temps(interstate) I origanlly thought there was one solution, replace the oil cooler... But after reading another article there is possibility for an airlock in the system causing high oil temps? It would make a lot of sense, my radiator is leaking I have mishimoto radiator that started leaking 3-4 weeks ago I've filled it one time (one gallon wasn't quite enough to fill it) and they didn't seem to improve at all, then I read there's a certain tool to preasurize it that I know I didn't use and now maybe I have a airlock somewhere? I drove it to Dallas and back which was 6 hours and on the way there I was pretty much between 220-230 on way back it was 235-245 so do I just need to flush the coolant system then have it refilled or replace the oil cooler or where do I start?
The AirLift 550000 is the favorite. You can find them on ebay and Amazon. I bought a used one (looks and works like new). The 550500 is the low cost version; it doesn't have all the adapters, and you hold a button down while pressurizing a system rather than opening a valve.

Did the truck have the Mishimoto already in it when you bought it? If so, you may be out of luck for warranty work, but try anyway. I ordered one through Amazon Wednesday evening, and with tax it's $850 (free shipping). Price went up $30 Thursday. So my Labor Day weekend is planned.

I just replaced the water pump which failed last Sunday, and figured I may as well go whole hog since the original radiator has a small leak, and the Ford unit costs virtually the same as the Mishimoto. I also installed their coolant filter kit last night. I now run Fleetrite ELC NOAT coolant.

When you replace the radiator, also replace the O-rings in your hoses (you should have the newer hoses with 2 O-rings).
 

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Couldn't you just buy the sinister or emote oil filter and then get a cooler mount the cooler and do a little bad and run lines from filter to cooler?
I wish it was that easy....

The remote shouldn't be confused with a bypass, which is what I think you're talking about. The half kit is the only kit I know about the doesn't interfere with pressures or volume of flow. It pulls it from the same place oe does, and returns it where the oe does... So your not robbing oil from anywhere, nor impacting volume or pressure...

That said, I did introduce a cooler on my bypass system (NUC motorsports setup, with amsoil eabp90 filter), and not because I was in need of oil cooling, but because I needed to push the filter further down the frame rail than NUC directed... It was supposed to be mounted where my coolant filter, aux trans filter (dieselsite) and ccv catch can is... So.. I used linear coolers instead of soft lines, or even the braided soft lines... It was risky so far as I care.





The down and dirty: I can hold the outlet back to fill cap in my hand indefinitely, but I can't even grab the inlet momentarily... An IR gun told me forty degrees difference going in to coming out.. significant, huh? Problem: the oil is taken from the filter cap, metered by the size of the passage (it's tiny), shoved through the cooler, the filter, and another cooler, and back into the doghouse/fill tower... Then it drips through the covers over passenger heads, through the valley to the sump, where it rests until the pump snatches it up again... The flow intercepted is only ten percent, and the oil is reintroduced as far from the temp sender/sensor as can be.. so.. there is no, zero, zilch, measurable oil cooling. That said, the hottest I've seen it since introducing this thing is 203*.... I'm thinking I'd have to really load this truck up and compare it to like loads prior to the mod to know for sure..

There is another way to cool the oil, and control it safely, but it's a prototype... Other than that, the BPD half kit is the only and the best product to address Ford's notion of a oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes I bought the truck with the mishimoto rad, but the original owner says it's never been registered and he's working with me to help me get it warrantied, I hope it works, but I'm not even sure where the coolant was coming from, It leaked after I bought it then it stopped and looked and the overflow was empty, so I added a gallon and it still wasn't as far up as it was suppose to be, now it's stopped again but probably because I'm low on coolant, but still don't see ect over 203 or 4 highest I saw was 208 pulling a decent sized boat(don't know weight) up a hill for aways, and oil temps were prolly 248. So that little set up you have there, what if you did the same thing but instead of those linear coolers you had a traditional type cooler going across the front and the the bypass/ remote filter on the pas side so it has to cross the area with most windflower. I would just like to fix the problem for good but hopefully around 500 vs 1300
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
And what's this other prototype you speak of? ?? I'd love to hear about it
 

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Yes I bought the truck with the mishimoto rad, but the original owner says it's never been registered and he's working with me to help me get it warrantied, I hope it works, but I'm not even sure where the coolant was coming from, It leaked after I bought it then it stopped and looked and the overflow was empty, so I added a gallon and it still wasn't as far up as it was suppose to be, now it's stopped again but probably because I'm low on coolant, but still don't see ect over 203 or 4 highest I saw was 208 pulling a decent sized boat(don't know weight) up a hill for aways, and oil temps were prolly 248. So that little set up you have there, what if you did the same thing but instead of those linear coolers you had a traditional type cooler going across the front and the the bypass/ remote filter on the pas side so it has to cross the area with most windflower. I would just like to fix the problem for good but hopefully around 500 vs 1300
I didn't do the coolers for the cooling effect- I didn't have much faith that they would work... I did them to push that bypass mount further back the frame rail, but it turns out they do a pretty good job of cooling the oil... The one time I measured it (shot it with an IR Gun) after a run, there was 40* delta from incoming/outgoing.... realize, though, the bypass filer head slows movement WAY down- the hole in the center of the head is tiny- like, .008 or so... it's made that way to keep too much oil from leaving the main path from the main filter.

It wouldn't matter, anyway, because the oil (although cooler) leaving that set up represents only ten or so percent of the total volume of flow, and it's redeposited in the fill tower, where it drips through the heads, through the valley, and into the sump.... where it collects for a decent amount of time before being resent through the engine again.... it has plenty of time to warm back up, and the temperature sensor/sender is on the other side of the pump.... so.... cooler oil isn't apparent in the range I use it... now, maybe on the upper parameter of use I'd see some cooling effects, but I haven't pushed it that hard since installing this thing...

unfortunately, and I say this with all honesty and intent to be fair, there is NO way to address the OE cooler that is 'cheap'.... that sux... the ONLY two ways to do it right now are to replace the OE cooling brick (which yours is beyond doubt clogged with that crazy delta) which will cost you $350 or so for the cooler itself, then 10~12 hours to install it... Or, the BPD 'Half Kit', which is a end solution, not a band-aid.. The BPD removes the engine mounted filter head, modifies the plumbing, sends it to a remote full flow filter, and a grill mounted stacked plate cooler before sending it right back to the OE filter base location cooled and filtered... it flat out fixes Ford's shortfall... the ONLY drawback is over cooled oil in winter, but which can be addressed by introducing a thermostatic bypass valve after the filter and before the cooler- sending oil too cool back to the engine instead of through the cooler until it's warm enough....

the prototype is still in R&D... it uses a modified oil pan with two passages- one has a thermostatic valve/manual solenoid (205*, or flip a switch) and removes oil and sends it to a module, and the other bulkhead fitting goes back to the oil pan... the module uses the engines fuel return to extract heat from the oil, in a oil-to-oil cooler, has an engine oil capacity of near 8 quarts, and uses a centrifuge filter to scrub it before sending it back to the main sump- it has an independent pump system, and a fuel pump/filter to take over HFCM duties as well... it is not going to be cheap- likely in the $2k range- but combines a $750 fuel system upgrade with an aux cooler/filter (that filters below one micron) for extended oil change intervals and wicked consistent managed oil temperatures.

I may get shot for speaking of this thing... :)

point being, when something goes wrong with the 6.4, it is rarely cheap to fix.. this is the case with your failing oil cooler... I'm sorry for your experience, it is a bad thing to have to deal with for sure... the only way to fix it will cost you around $2k one way or the other...

once you get it right, I advise you to flush the system thoroughly prior to plumbing the new cooler (whichever you go with) in... otherwise, those dropped silicates will simply reclog your system all over again... I'd advise you to use CAT EC-1/ELC (red) and get as far from the Ford Gold as you can... install a coolant filter to capture the casting sand left in the block (which the silicates like to attach to, and according to some are THE reason for these failures), and swap it every third oil change... and you'll be good to go...

sorry for the novel...
 
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