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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello new here on this site.. Have an 08 cc king ranch with 120k on the clock oil changed every 5k with synthetic and fuel filters every 10k engine started to have a faint knock put on ids and showed #8 contribution was low so ran a compression check found all other cylinders to be 325+ and number 8 was 200 so pulled cab pulled engine tore down and found cylinder to be about 30,000 bigger than other cylinders. So I guess my knock was piston slap found no stuck rings or piston wear just a wore out cylinder ..... Truck was not making oil and never gave any codes..truck does not have a dpf and run mainly a 210 tow haul tune with spartain . Truck was not abused pretty much babied its whole life any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks
 

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What are your thoughts on rebuilding it? I have no idea if you can go 30 over on the cylinder bore and you don't know if its centered any longer. Have you pulled the engine yet or just heads to mic the cylinders? My guess is that opinions will come back that your active regens washed down the cylinder, because it uses cyl #8, which led to wear. Dunno. I'd be focused on moving forward ... how best to use what I got ... trade off in $$ ... etc. Best of Luck!

Just read the part about no DPF ... Hmm.
 

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Exactly no regen hasn't had that since I first bought truck religiously changed oil every 5k engine was not making oil so I am at a loss ... Motor is out of truck block at machine shop I roughly did an estimate rebuilding with arp studs all gaskets and rings 8 new rockers assemblys bearings new oil pan (old one starting to rust) at a cost of roughly 2500 in parts plus machine work
 

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Lubricity lacking in fuel will kill the system, even the injectors... The rattle at low load off the line is metal gates slapping metal seats... A good padding of fuel that has some shear strength to it keeps this from happening to a large degree, which disallows extra fuel seeping past when the gate slaps home and slightly rebounds.. There is a lot of pressure in those rails, and it just simply happens. Thank you, epa, for your ulsd... When sulfur is stripped, so are lubricants, making the fuel extremely dry..

When you get her back up and running, run standidine lubricity formula (purple label) religiously... Use their cetane boost too, in an extra shot if you choose to... But always run a lubricity additive... Standidine is the best I've used, but there may be others out there as good...
 

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Exactly no regen hasn't had that since I first bought truck religiously changed oil every 5k engine was not making oil so I am at a loss ... Motor is out of truck block at machine shop I roughly did an estimate rebuilding with arp studs all gaskets and rings 8 new rockers assemblys bearings new oil pan (old one starting to rust) at a cost of roughly 2500 in parts plus machine work
You've got a cylinder that is 30k over. Your needing more than rings unless your getting another block. Keeping your block, instead of sourcing another, means boring all cylinders and buying matching pistons and rings.
 

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Lubricity lacking in fuel will kill the system, even the injectors... The rattle at low load off the line is metal gates slapping metal seats... A good padding of fuel that has some shear strength to it keeps this from happening to a large degree, which disallows extra fuel seeping past when the gate slaps home and slightly rebounds.. There is a lot of pressure in those rails, and it just simply happens. Thank you, epa, for your ulsd... When sulfur is stripped, so are lubricants, making the fuel extremely dry..

When you get her back up and running, run standidine lubricity formula (purple label) religiously... Use their cetane boost too, in an extra shot if you choose to... But always run a lubricity additive... Standidine is the best I've used, but there may be others out there as good...
Making it easier for you: It's Stanadyne Lubricity Formula; find it on Amazon.

Thanks for the tip, drewactual.:thumbsup:
 

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You can get it at AutoZone around here.. $10 or so for bottle that'll treat 120gallons... I use whole bottle in my tank+aux tank (110gallons)..

I'm a freak about fuel... I buy from same place I trust unless I absolutely can't.. I have aux tank in bed, an airdog 150 that transfers fuel to the main tank which is controlled by upfitter 2... Upfitter four activates a timer board which powers a normally closed solenoid valve, allowing a quarter tank to pump into main tank... Or, I can power the airdog and let it's return line just filter/polish the aux tank over and over... I know I'm getting clean fuel this way.. to me, it's that big a deal.. don't get me wrong, I love the 1600+ mile highway range, but the real reason is fuel quality...

Of all I've ran, the standydine is the best, but I've yet to try archoil 6200 with ashless two stroke oil... I'm a little afraid of using that, but I know folks who swear by it...

I posted some pics below of my set up.






And one of my truck just for the helluvit... :)



It doubles as my bug out vehicle... :)
 

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drewactual,
Do you have pics of the recirc system? How do you get it back to the tank?
I have an aux tank that can show moisture at times, I am sure from condensation. Would like to think about your setup and how to do it on my '10.
Thanks,
Joe
 

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between the pump and the solenoid valve in that pic above, there is a white cap... that white cap covers a snap-valved return line... when the airdog encounters resistance above 30 or so psi, the notion is that the engine isn't using it, so it redirects it back to the source through another tap on the source tank...

the tank I purchased has several bungs already available, so I used one of two vent taps on the top of the tank to return fuel to it.

there were several reasons I went with an additional airdog150 on my rig... one was so I could quickly swap the main one (serving as a HFCM/Lift pump) out if it failed and I was far from home- the other is because it filters and separates so well (and shares those same filters with the main ad150).. the next, and not the least, is that plumbing it was SIMPLE, instead of having to introduce another solenoid valve and controls to that valve just for the re-circulation/polishing function, I could just have the one normally closed solenoid valve, and actuate it with a upfitter for a nice and clean cab install.....
 
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