Sure, if the same tech did it both times, I wouldn't be surprised that he messed up 2 of them.
But you found a ding in the cover, so I bet the tech didn't look close enough, probably didn't care, and didn't catch the root cause.
It sounds like you did.

 

I sure don't remember even one other post here about front seal leak. If that ding was from the factory and seal made it for 100k miles, it would not have affected a new seal in 5k miles. Did that ding look like it came from a tool poorly used to remove the seal the first time?

 

It had to be bad install both times is my guess the ding was most definitely from a tool of some sort trying to remove the seal. There were basically three spot on the cover about a pry bar width wide one at 12 o'clock on at 9 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock. Well see how this install of my seal goes as I don't have the install tool but maybe I can con my dealer into loaning me theirs for a price lol

 

One thing that I'll add is that if the owner paid for the seal to be replaced at a Ford dealer, parts/labor of the same part is covered for 2 years/unlimited miles so you could have gone back and had them do it for free (granted if they F'd up twice, would they F up a 3rd time?).

 

yeah could have done that except I live in colorado and that dealer was in texas... it took me 2 hours from start to washing out the radiators and cleaning up to tear down the entire front end and removing the seal. So it really was not bad at all.

 

Good to hear.. I open the hood and get very intimidated on these 6.7s.

Just another FYI - that warranty is a Ford warranty, not dealership. You could have taken it to a dealer near you and had it covered by Ford.

Regardless, you got it hopefully taken care of so it won't happen again. Enjoy the truck!!

 

Using anything on the outside sealing surface of a seal if it is rubberized is not recommended. If the body is metal it is ok.
This nick, was it on the surface of the cover where the seal is against?
How muck lateral play is in the crankshaft?
Is there a wear cut on surface where the inside of seal rides on?

 

Using anything on the outside sealing surface of a seal if it is rubberized is not recommended. If the body is metal it is ok.
This nick, was it on the surface of the cover where the seal is against?
How muck lateral play is in the crankshaft?
Is there a wear cut on surface where the inside of seal rides on?

What he ↑ said...

njmo

 

I woul check oil pressure on a mechanical gauge to see if needle bobbles. If it is bobbling, your main bearings are probably shot. If those wonderful locking tangless bearing are really bad the crank will have slop and the seal leak. Did you get oil change history? It does not take much trash in a 6.7's oil to dig into a bearing and spin it.

 

as far as oil change history the carfax shows the dealer in texas who sold the truck originally did all the maintenance regular oil changes ect.

 

Installed the new seal with nothing on it as I thought about it too. The nicks were in the aluminium housing cleaned those up overall the seal install went very good. Buttoned her all back up in about 2 hours... seemed like it went back together faster than I took it apart. Test ran the truck and no leak... yet. The only thing I could find on the old seal was a small I mean small cut all the way across the outer diameter rubber. I'll link a picture. Other than that it seemed very clean. I did not grab the crank and check play.... wish I would have. Just got this truck so no chance to do an oil sample as of yet. The place I bought it from had changed the oil so I changed it again because I highly doubt they used the 5w40 synthetic. I used she'll t6 5w40 with a ford oil filter this time. I will do an oil sample when I change my oil next. It's a very good point about the mains it's a definite possibility. I do have the typewriter sound as tons of people seem to have after fresh changes. I'll keep you guys posted on what happens with more driving. The engine runs very strong I drove one of these for a few years at an old job I had so I can compare. It idles smooth ect so I don't think I've got a spun bearing. Matter of fact I know I don't because there was no shavings ect in the oil I put my finger in the drain hole (1/4 turn leakers plug) and found nothing. If I had a spun main I would have found a lot of metallic material seen it on plenty of large diesels.

Thanks for your input guys I'll keep ya posted. Hoping it doesn't leak in about 200 miles lol

 

 

Mmmm, maaaybe
I do hope that was it and you will be good.

 

Another thought, the vacuum pump covers are known to leak over time. If it shows again could also be a culprit. Best of luck.

 

update.... less than 50 miles and boom... leak. I have ruled out the vacuum pump that was the first thing i checked. looked at it with a mirror today while it was running and it is definitely the front main seal.

I checked crank play this afternoon and it seems very tight so im not convinced it is that. what I honestly think is maybe the dealer in texas didnt have the correct install tool so they winged it both times like i did and the install tool puts the slinger slightly off the seal by maybe 20-30 thousands maybe more... the slinger rides with the crank and the front main obviously sits still. maybe the slinger cooks the front main and causes it to leak..... being as i put the slinger on all the way. I checked with my local dealer they want 300 bucks to install a new seal. im going to have them do it with the specialty tool and well see from there I guess at that point then if it leaks its somewhat on them but if it leaks again after the proper tooling then we definitely have an issue.... praying to the powerstroke gods to not be crank movement....if it is... any one have the procedure to remove the cab? (in all seriousness)

 

You think the slinger is rubbing on the seal? When sinking the seal in, did you stop at the old stain line, so it was at the same depth at last seal?
How did you try to move the crank?

 

Was it leaking from center sealing surface?

 

When you watched the leak with the mirror,(be extremely careful doing that with it running. I have seen freak accidents like that. Example: spinning crank smacks mirror slamming handle into face), was leak coming from center sealing lip of crank? How did you check crank?

 

the seal had been replaced at 118,508 miles and then again at 119.281 miles both times by the same dealer. i just replaced it again at 119700. I made two mistakes now that i got my local dealer to print me off the instructions.

1: i thought the seal was possibly a teflon seal so i made sure it was clean and dry no oil which in the service data i got it states to lube the seal with engine oil.

2 i didnt have the install tool.

 

it appeared to be coming from the center best i could tell because like you mentioned its sketchy as heck with the mirror in there i was about a 1/4 inch away from the fan lol. it appeared to be the center closest to the crank. as far as checking the crank i did it just this afternoon with everything assembled so not the best method but pushed up with quick force on the balancer to see if i could feel a thud or knock ect. ideally i wish I would have done with the everything apart when i did the seal. would have been much easier. But i didn't feel any slop what so ever it just pushed the front end of the truck up slightly, felt very solid, if it is moving its not moving much at all.

 

The problem with pushing up is, that serpentine belt has already pulled up all slack when the crank is in a static state.
Have you pulled the oil cap to make sure you do not have some crazy crankcase venting issue?
I would first verify you don't have a venting issue. Then I would take the tension off the belt and pull side to side.
Please be careful with body parts and tools around moving objects. I know you are a big boy but I get chills and the hair raises on my arms, thinking of past horrors.

 

ill go pop the belt off now and check that. ill check venting too be right back.

 

Vacuum pump leaking and running down crosses my mind.....

 

its not the vacuum pump. ive checked it multiple times.

 

okay so with the belt completely loose i still get no crank play best i can do up or down or side to side. also the blow by does not seem too excessive like a little bit of smoke and definitely not a lot of air volume even with the engine revved up still not a lot of blow by. im posting a vid ill link it here in a sec.

 

How about the surface the inner lip rides on? Did you think to look for a wear groove? With over 100k there was most likely one there.

 

https://youtu.be/3ACQ0gtlInc

heres the blow by. nothing too excessive or maybe it is?

actually the crank surface was very clean. I did not notice a groove.

 

Would that blow that cap up part way to ceiling if held down upside down and then released? Didn't look it. Back to the crank
Doesn't the seal ride on the harmonic balancer stub shaft?

 

the blow by is a non issue. Its not much at all and no way would it have that kind of pressure. ive seen semi's with blow by issues this one is very minimal. no the seal rides directly on the crank.

I honestly am thinking to let the dealer just install it with the proper tool, and if it leaks again im going to be looking at crank play as a gaurenteed possibility. if so can a guy pop the pan on these 6.7's with out pulling the engine? if so it wont be bad to just roll new mains in. ill do the rods while im in there too.