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Hey guys new to the forum, I've read a couple threads of people having similar issues just not all the same issues I'm seeing. So thought I'd make a thread and see if you guys have any insight to what I dealing with to get it fixed. It's a 2000 Ford F-250 7.3 6-speed 155k miles, when I'm completely stopped I can't get into gear, I have to repeatedly push or force into first and reverse. If I'm rolling to a stop if floats right in. When I'm in gear it doesn't pull forward like I've read about other guys with similar issues, I've tried getting into first, then tried second, third, fourth and so on and no luck. Once I'm driving it shifts into the gears fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey guys new to the forum, I've read a couple threads of people having similar issues just not all the same issues I'm seeing. So thought I'd make a thread and see if you guys have any insight to what I dealing with to get it fixed. It's a 2000 Ford F-250 7.3 6-speed 155k miles, when I'm completely stopped I can't get into gear, I have to repeatedly push or force into first and reverse. If I'm rolling to a stop if floats right in. When I'm in gear it doesn't pull forward like I've read about other guys with similar issues, I've tried getting into first, then tried second, third, fourth and so on and no luck. Once I'm driving it shifts into the gears fine
I see everyone else has people commenting with advice but mine 5 hours later is blank? Did I do something wrong? Wrong place or what?
 

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Potentially a slightly bent fork. Not enough to engage the clutch enough to move the truck, but enough to make getting it in gear hard. Pilot bearing would definitely do this. If it were mine, I'd replace the fork with the updated fork, replace the pilot bearing, the throw out bearing and inspect the clutch as long as you have it pulled.


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Pastor,

Please be patient here. Many people visit here every day but sometimes you have to wait for those who have experience with your particular problem. My truck is an auto so I have no proof in my theory that the fork is bent. I can only wait for the boys with a hand shaker to chime in. You are in the right place for all things on our trucks
 

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If it is running now wait until you get the updated fork before you tear it down. They are usually on backorder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Potentially a slightly bent fork. Not enough to engage the clutch enough to move the truck, but enough to make getting it in gear hard. Pilot bearing would definitely do this. If it were mine, I'd replace the fork with the updated fork, replace the pilot bearing, the throw out bearing and inspect the clutch as long as you have it pulled.


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Thanks guys for the advice seems like it's possible fork, pilot or throw out bearing so I mise well do a clutch as well, and I will call on that updated fork tomorrow and see how long the wait is. Is there a certain name the updated fork has when calling it in at a parts department or just "7.3 6-speed updated clutch fork?" Thanks again for the help.
 

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The fork you want is PN YC3Z-7515-BB.
A dragging clutch might also be the disk not sliding easily on the input shaft splines, but that's lower on the list.
I'd vote for 444-4D's thought on a bad pilot bearing as the most likely cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The fork you want is PN YC3Z-7515-BB.
A dragging clutch might also be the disk not sliding easily on the input shaft splines, but that's lower on the list.
I'd vote for 444-4D's thought on a bad pilot bearing as the most likely cause.
Oh right on, yea seems like most people are leaning towards the pilot bearing. I'm tearing into it next weekend, I'll keep you guys up to date.
 

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I thought the Internet was supposed to be instant? :scratchhead:

I also suspect the pilot bearing in the flywheel.
 

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Just a thought... the pilot bearing is there only to allow the input shaft to spin inside the flywheel. If the throwout bearing or clutch fork is not fully disengaging the clutch is that not where it would cause it not to shift into gear at a stop as the trans is still spinning with the flywheel? I'm just not seeing how the pilot BUSHING is the problem in this case. I have always just changed them since they are brass and tend to get worn over the years. Please let me know if i am looking at this wrong as I am no expert.
 

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The pilot bearing is a needle bearing on these trucks, but I like the brass inserts better. If a pilot bearing is binding, it would grab the input shaft, spinning it just like a clutch not completely disengaging. I still maintain you should change it and the fork (and throw out bearing) as long as you have the transmission pulled.


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I've had a similar problem to this on my ZF6 - when you're rolling, you can put it in any gear without a problem, but if you're completely stopped, and you try to put it in first (actually 2nd since I never use the granny gear), you have to jam it in, and it clunks loudly. Last year when I put a rebuilt engine in, I also put in new full LuK rep kit - clutch, plate, flywheel, throwout bearing and pilot bearing, as well as a brand new upgraded clutch fork, even though an upgraded fork was already in there, and a new ball stud.

The clutch works way way way better with the new Luk kit as far as pedal effort and smoothness, but there was NO DIFFERENCE as far as the difficulty of getting into first gear after having come to a full stop, which leads me to believe this probably is NOT related to the pilot bearing, since I have a brand new one and I'm sure I installed everything correctly (including the spline grease).

My theory is there is something wrong inside the transmission, maybe some "synchros???" that are not working quite right, and the trans could probably use a rebuild for it to work perfectly . . . for the forseeable future, however, I'm just gonna try to remember to select my gears while rolling!!!

Maybe the trans guy Mark Kovalsky knows something about this and will comment . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've had a similar problem to this on my ZF6 - when you're rolling, you can put it in any gear without a problem, but if you're completely stopped, and you try to put it in first (actually 2nd since I never use the granny gear), you have to jam it in, and it clunks loudly. Last year when I put a rebuilt engine in, I also put in new full LuK rep kit - clutch, plate, flywheel, throwout bearing and pilot bearing, as well as a brand new upgraded clutch fork, even though an upgraded fork was already in there, and a new ball stud.

The clutch works way way way better with the new Luk kit as far as pedal effort and smoothness, but there was NO DIFFERENCE as far as the difficulty of getting into first gear after having come to a full stop, which leads me to believe this probably is NOT related to the pilot bearing, since I have a brand new one and I'm sure I installed everything correctly (including the spline grease).

My theory is there is something wrong inside the transmission, maybe some "synchros???" that are not working quite right, and the trans could probably use a rebuild for it to work perfectly . . . for the forseeable future, however, I'm just gonna try to remember to select my gears while rolling!!!

Maybe the trans guy Mark Kovalsky knows something about this and will comment . . .
Sounds exactly what I'm dealing with, it wouldn't go into reverse last night so I said screw it and shut the truck off and put it in reverse then started it and backed up. Which leads me to believe the gears, syncros aren't the culprit at the moment but like a few of this guys have said pilot or throw out bearing, bad fork, I was reading on south bends site that the stock clutches, clutch springs have an issue popping out. So far I like this forum, full of knowledgable people with good insight.
 

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My theory is there is something wrong inside the transmission, maybe some "synchros???" that are not working quite right, and the trans could probably use a rebuild for it to work perfectly . . . for the forseeable future, however, I'm just gonna try to remember to select my gears while rolling!!!
Think about what you just said. How would something inside the tranny make the input shaft turn when it wasn't suppposed to? The only thing that will make the input shaft turn is the clutch disk or the pilot bearing binding up. A clutch disk spring popped out would also force the clutch disk to turn with the engine, but that would be unlikely with a new clutch kit installed.

Maybe the trans guy Mark Kovalsky knows something about this and will comment . . .
Mark's' an auto tranny guy (and an expert one), :winking: but he'd probably agree with me.
 

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Think about what you just said. How would something inside the tranny make the input shaft turn when it wasn't suppposed to? The only thing that will make the input shaft turn is the clutch disk or the pilot bearing binding up.
I'm thinking about what I said!!! I dont remember saying anything about the input shaft turning when it wasnt supposed to, I'm not smart enough to even know what you mean by that.

Here is what I really said: all my clutch components are new and I still have this problem! I've even removed the trans once after installing and driving for a while (for a different problem) and everything looked fine. Being as the clutch components are all new, that leads me to believe that clutch components (including the pilot bearing) may not be the problem . . . so what's left? My completely uninformed/non-expert thinking points me to something inside the trans itself.
 

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I've never rebuilt a standard that had synchronizers in any gear you were intended to engage while stationary - like 1st and reverse. If you are having trouble engaging those gears, you can pretty much rule out synchronizers as the cause.

Almost universally, not wanting to go into a non-synchronized gear is caused because the input shaft is still spinning - either through drag on the clutch or pilot bearing. One way to "help" is to engage a synchronized gear and immediately go into the desired gear. For example, while you are stopped, put it in second and then into first (or reverse). This stops the input shaft and if you are quick enough you can get it into the desired gear before it spins up again.
 

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I've been having transmission problems but they're mainly related to a faulty rebuild from an eBay company based in Texas. That said, when cold, the transmission shifts into R, Low and 1 without any issue other than a slow synchro in 1. However, when hot, like the OP, my trans won't shift into R, Low or 1 without "persuasion". The clutch is also new but I'm looking at the clutch hydraulics OR the trans fluid as the cause of the problem.
 

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I'm thinking about what I said!!! I dont remember saying anything about the input shaft turning when it wasnt supposed to, I'm not smart enough to even know what you mean by that.

Here is what I really said: all my clutch components are new and I still have this problem! I've even removed the trans once after installing and driving for a while (for a different problem) and everything looked fine. Being as the clutch components are all new, that leads me to believe that clutch components (including the pilot bearing) may not be the problem . . . so what's left? My completely uninformed/non-expert thinking points me to something inside the trans itself.
Sorry if I confused you.

Typically failure to go into a gear is caused by the input shaft still spinning and preventing the teeth on the gear clutch dogs from sliding into engagement. After thinking about it some more myself, it could also be caused by worn or seized synchronizers that are blocking the slots, preventing engagement. Also if the input shaft is stationary and the output shaft is also stopped, the gears you want may be blocked (spline on spline instead of spline on slot), not letting the splines engage. The ZF-6 has synchronizers on ALL gears, even granny and reverse, allowing you to shift into reverse when rolling forward (not recommended though as it's hard on the synchronizer). So you COULD have an issue inside the tranny. Like RT said, if you're stopped, sometimes shifting into a different gear (that doesn't have the splines blocked) then back to the one you want will be a workaround. That would move the splines on the gear you want closer to engagement so they will slide into engagement.

Maybe a change in lube would help. :shrug03:
 

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If the old pilot bearing fell apart and damaged the stub of the input shaft and the new kit came with the needle bearing like the original then the problem can still be that. The damaged shaft will not turn freely in the pilot bearing. Also check cross shaft bushings in the pedal assembly as well as firewall flex. Also another place is where the master cylinder rod hooks to the clutch pedal, if worn you will loose travel.

Peter
 
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