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I bought a 93’ f-350 with a 5-speed manual trans. I was letting a buddy use it for a while and he tried to put electric lift pumps in as well as his own fuel lines. I got it back and after replacing the fuel lines and putting a mechanical lift pump in, it won’t start. I bled the injector lines. The batteries are good. I’ve tried plugging the block heater in. It still won’t turn over. I hold the key over for about 5-10 seconds and it’ll act like it’s about to turn over but nothing happens. I know using too much ether on hot glow plugs isn’t good. Any suggestions?
 

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If it is trying to start it is most likely getting fuel. I would check the glow plugs, or the glow plug relay. You're right, stay away from the ether. It'll cause nasty things to happen to the pistons, if it doesn't start a fire first.
 

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If it is trying to start it is most likely getting fuel. I would check the glow plugs, or the glow plug relay. You're right, stay away from the ether. It'll cause nasty things to happen to the pistons, if it doesn't start a fire first.
Would the glow plug or the relay keep it from starting at all?
 

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Would the glow plug or the relay keep it from starting at all?
If either of them are not working it can be very hard to start. Get a test light to check the plugs, check to make sure power is coming out of the relay to the plugs, if so check each plug . Also make sure there is power going to the injector pump when the key is on.
 

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I bought a 93’ f-350 with a 5-speed manual trans. I was letting a buddy use it for a while and he tried to put electric lift pumps in as well as his own fuel lines. I got it back and after replacing the fuel lines and putting a mechanical lift pump in, it won’t start. I bled the injector lines. The batteries are good. I’ve tried plugging the block heater in. It still won’t turn over. I hold the key over for about 5-10 seconds and it’ll act like it’s about to turn over but nothing happens. I know using too much ether on hot glow plugs isn’t good. Any suggestions?
My 1992 7.3 idi had a similar problem. We let the fuel go down below half and it may still be summer blend. I added treatment and changed the fuel filter. It is very cold here. It just turns over but would not fire up. We plugged in the block heater. Still would not start. GP are good. There was some air instrution at the fuel heater so I got a new o ring, Still would not start. I suspected frozen water and air in the fuel system. So I had my wife crank it over while I bled the lines from both tanks from the shraider valve while holding a rag to catch the fuel. After a very long series of cranking it tried to start and then started with no loping. Actual better than before I sealed the fuel heater port. Maybe this will work for you.
 

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A test light won't show a shorted glow plug, because it will still show power. If you use an ohmmeter, it will show the short. After letting it sit overnight, ohm each glow plug (power tip to good ground) they should read somewhere in the neighborhood of .2 ohms. If they read more than that, then they are either getting weak, or open depending on the reading you get. If they read less, they are likely shorted. At that point, I usually take them out, and hook them directly to the battery they should turn cherry red all the way down. If it doesn't make it all the way down, then it is shorted. One bad glow plug can make the relay shut off early, causing the engine to still be too cold. two or more will make the relay "click" off and on rapidly, not allowing anything to heat up. I have seen relays not transfer power across them, relays drop all voltage as soon as power is applied, relays work just fine, but nothing getting to the glow plugs. You pretty much need to start at one end of the system, and check through to the other until you find a problem. On an old worn out engine, the glow plugs are needed even in the summer time.
 
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