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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I’m new on here . Have a big problem with my early 99 7.3 powerstroke with 415k miles . So here is the story . I bought the truck with a long crank condition . Had to crank it for about 30 seconds and then soon as it warmed up it stalled and wouldn't restart . I solved those issues . The problem was bad glow plugs and a bad hpop. No the truck fires on second turn and wont die out no more. Problem Im having now is that it idles perfect but soon as i drive it its a complete dog . Here is a list of things I did so far :
new ipr (oe not the cheap crap )
new icp (not oe)
new exhaust back pressure sensor and tube
2 new fuel injectors ( #4 and #8 both failed and after replacing passed a balance test )
new hpop ( the new pump is leaking on the round back piece . Seen that today. The readings on my scanner at idle are 480-530psi and 2400-2600 on wot)
all new fuel injector o rings (all oe brand )
replaced both under valve cover harnesses and valve cover gaskets .
motorcraft glow plugs .
it seemed like a boost issue so i replaced the turbo pedestal and did a ebpv delete .
turbo o rings are all new too .
turbo was fully checked while out . No play in the shaft and everything else checks out too .
I thought maybe a compression issue so I checked that and the numbers were 370 380 400 400 - 400 380 390 400 . The test was done on a cold engine so should be even a little better .
AI fixed all the codes with the work I did to it except the code for the ebpv but that will stay on because of the delete . When I have it in neutral it will rev to 3000 but it takes a second to get there . Quick at 2000 and then dogging a little to 3000. I can hear the turbo spooling . In gear it wont pick up speed quick and it wont shift right away and then hits hard in second . Also every once in awhile when I rev it in neutral the overdrive flashes and i get code p0500 (speed sensor in differential) and p0720 (transmission output speed sensor) i already replaced the one in the differential . Soon as I restart it the 2 codes are gone . I think more its an engine issue that causes the rough shifting and codes . I pretty much replaces everything except 6 injectors and also didn't replace the map sensor but it reads right on my scanner . I need help with this truck . Oh and also I replaced the fuel pump blown out all the lines , replaced the return valve , pulled gas tank and checked the screens in the pickup and return and also installed a new screener and fuel filter . Fresh diesel and I did the arch oil cleaning which helped a little .it made the truck more quiet . The 6 old injectors are all shimmed not sure if that could cause a issue. I do not have any imbalance codes at all . And i did replace all high pressure oil lines and added a crossover line so number 8 gets more oil. That got rid of the injector tick . I replaced everything got rid of all the codes and i don't have a truck with full power .could use some help . Also have to say the truck does not smoke at all.
Computer Output device Communication Device Gadget Font


that's on idle
Output device Communication Device Gadget Audio equipment Font


that's flooring it . The injector control pressure goes up to 2400-2600 but it takes a second to get there. Maybe the pump has a problem due to the leak
 

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I would want to gather two pieces of information: fuel pressure and boost. You already have "boost" on your Autel. The manifold absolute pressure - you just have to subtract atmospheric pressure where you are. You can guestimate that by looking at your scanner with KOEO. That is your atmospheric as measured by your MAP sensor with the turbo not moving. Based on your "flooring it" picture, you have NO BOOST.

Fuel pressure requires an adapter. I'll link it below. Then, rig a pressure gauge where you can see it while driving and make a run. It should be in the 60 PSI range.

#13-001 Pressure Port Adapter - Straight 1/8 FNPT or #13-002 Fuel Bowl Pressure Port Adapter - 90 deg elbow x 1/8 FNPT plus #13-005 Schrader valve - Fuel Injection rated 1/8 MNPT

I personally run a fuel pressure gauge full-time. I think it is one of the more important pieces of information.
 
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Another item I saw was your ICP is not OE. There are a lot of bad ones out there, so if you can get an OE one I would. My aftermarket one failed completely after 8 months.
 

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RT
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“I personally run a fuel pressure gauge full-time. I think it is one of the more important pieces of information”

This right here ^^ X2 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would want to gather two pieces of information: fuel pressure and boost. You already have "boost" on your Autel. The manifold absolute pressure - you just have to subtract atmospheric pressure where you are. You can guestimate that by looking at your scanner with KOEO. That is your atmospheric as measured by your MAP sensor with the turbo not moving. Based on your "flooring it" picture, you have NO BOOST.

Fuel pressure requires an adapter. I'll link it below. Then, rig a pressure gauge where you can see it while driving and make a run. It should be in the 60 PSI range.

#13-001 Pressure Port Adapter - Straight 1/8 FNPT or #13-002 Fuel Bowl Pressure Port Adapter - 90 deg elbow x 1/8 FNPT plus #13-005 Schrader valve - Fuel Injection rated 1/8 MNPT

I personally run a fuel pressure gauge full-time. I think it is one of the more important pieces of information.
I'm getting the fuel pressure tester and the adapter tomorrow sometime. the atmospheric pressure around here is about 14.3 . I checked that couple days ago . I get it at wot to about 17 if I stay on the pedal for a few seconds . what would be a good number for a healthy turbo ? also it will go up on injector pressure to around 2400 .one thing that I forgot to mention is that 1 of the injectors is a AD injector . that is brand new and it fixed my cylinder 4 imbalance code . I'm not 100% on it but I think fuel pressure is good. I tried 2 different pumps and I made sure everything in the fuel system is 100% clear .I also tried to run it of a separate tank with the same results. one other thing I noticed is that the passenger bank spits a tiny bit less oil on the injectors then on the driver side .its not much of a difference . I tried to check for leaks in the exhaust system but i had to work longer so I didn't get to it .the turbo itself is in great shape .is there anything else but leaks that could cause the turbo to not work right ?I did the ebpv delete on it and it has a new pedestal without the actuator. thank you for your help
 

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Good boost would be around 17-20. That would show up as 31-34 MAP. You’re nowhere close. You likely have a massive boost leak somewhere. You can build a boost leak detector with some plumbing parts from Home Depot. Basically use a 3 inch rubber pipe coupling and a cap. Drill a hole in the cap to fit an air coupling. Apply about 15 psi to the intake of the turbo and follow your ears.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another item I saw was your ICP is not OE. There are a lot of bad ones out there, so if you can get an OE one I would. My aftermarket one failed completely after 8 months.
I will order a motorcraft one tomorrow .I thought about that too .I did install my friends
OE ICP and that didn't change anything I forgot to mention that . do you think i could have a bad idm ? I'm sure it would throw codes for it or it would run like crap if one bank would fire .the only thing that isn't new or checked on this truck is the pcm and the idm , I didn't check for exhaust leaks and didn't test the fuel pressure .I'm replacing the brand new leaking hpop tomorrow and after that I can test the fuel pressure .
 

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Check for boost leak before you go any further
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good boost would be around 17-20. That would show up as 31-34 MAP. You’re nowhere close. You likely have a massive boost leak somewhere. You can build a boost leak detector with some plumbing parts from Home Depot. Basically use a 3 inch rubber pipe coupling and a cap. Drill a hole in the cap to fit an air coupling. Apply about 15 psi to the intake of the turbo and follow your ears.


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I'm far from 31-34. ok for sure a boost issue then. I will get on that tomorrow .thank you for the tips . I report back after I checked it .
 

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Make one of these from some 3in abs. You don't need a gauge but it's nice. Be careful they can blow off the clamp and hurt someone if you don't get it on tight. Put it on the filter housing side of the turbo. Put 10psi on it and listen. I bet it's leaking from your intercooler.
Gauge Motor vehicle Measuring instrument Gas Auto part

Automotive tire Light Tire Wheel Rim

Automotive tire Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So today I had some time to mess around with the beast . first thing I did was put the new hpop in and the drove it to collect some data .did a video and posted the link above . next thing I did was check the fuel pressure . I had 70psi on idle and about 65-68 on WOT. that seems perfect to me . after that I hooked up a boost gauge and drove it again and she had a little boost but for sure not enough . the gauge went to about 7psi at WOT. after that I took it back and blew some air in the wastegate actuator to make sure that works and it does open and close like it supposed to . at this point its almost 100% that I have a major boost leak . so tomorrow I go down to home depot and get me everything to build me a leak tester like jleedog showed above. if anyone has another idea let me know please . i hope i can get her back to her glory soon .thank you all for your help .you guys are awesome .
 

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Lack of boost is definitely an issue. I'm surprised you aren't fogging the neighborhood with black smoke. With my manual wastegate controller and billet wheel on the turbo, when I floor it, my boost will go over 30. That's not a recommendation. I just never floor mine.
 
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Lack of boost is definitely an issue. I'm surprised you aren't fogging the neighborhood with black smoke.
Probably won't smoke out the neighborhood. The PCM programming restricts fuel delivered by the injectors if it doesn't see boost. That will contribute to it being doggy.
For the boost leak detector, I used a 3" ABS pipe cap that fits nicely in the turbo intake boot.

But it sounds like you may have found the issue with the leaking up-pipes. Be prepared for a fun job (not) replacing the up-pipes. I don't know if the bellowed up-pipe setup is available for an early 99, but if so, I'd get that instead of the original setup with donuts at the turbo intake wye. It would be easier to install as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Probably won't smoke out the neighborhood. The PCM programming restricts fuel delivered by the injectors if it doesn't see boost. That will contribute to it being doggy.
For the boost leak detector, I used a 3" ABS pipe cap that fits nicely in the turbo intake boot.

But it sounds like you may have found the issue with the leaking up-pipes. Be prepared for a fun job (not) replacing the up pipes. I don't know if the bellowed up-pipe setup is available for an early 99, but if so, I'd get that instead of the original setup with donuts at the turbo intake wye. It would be easier to install as well.
yes, those pipes are leaking bad. For sure the problem. I did put air to the intake today .no intercooler leaks or boot leaks. well after putting all this money in it at least I know I will have a solid truck that shouldn't need to much anytime soon. at least engine wise 😂🤣. yes, the bellowed ones are available, that's what I ordered .at least the old ones will come out easy since I just had them out few days ago lol. excited to get them pipes on Monday and take her for a good ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Lack of boost is definitely an issue. I'm surprised you aren't fogging the neighborhood with black smoke. With my manual wastegate controller and billet wheel on the turbo, when I floor it, my boost will go over 30. That's not a recommendation. I just never floor mine.
Im excited to see how she runs with good boost after putting all these new parts in it . hopefully im seeing my boost in the 20s . how does the manual wastegate controller work ?
 
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