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It's spring-loaded. It doesn't rely on pressure through the wastegate controller at all. Here's the link - 7.3L Ford Turbo-Master Wastegate Controller

After installation, you're supposed to do a few full-throttle runs and adjust it to open at a reasonable pressure. I've never gotten around to that part. It's on my list of things to do - around page ten.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It's spring-loaded. It doesn't rely on pressure through the wastegate controller at all. Here's the link - 7.3L Ford Turbo-Master Wastegate Controller

After installation, you're supposed to do a few full-throttle runs and adjust it to open at a reasonable pressure. I've never gotten around to that part. It's on my list of things to do - around page ten.
I have to get me one of them. that's my next purchase for sure. how's the performance difference with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
so today I changed the up pipes out with them bellowed ones. still don't have boost. I took it on the street today and hit it a little bit. it's a dog pretty bad. also smoke for a second but stopped right away. it seemed like it had a miss under load, so I did a balance test, and it gave me a code for cylinder 8. did another test 5 min later and the code was gone. is there any way that bad injectors could cause this? that's really the only thing I didn't fully swap out. only 2 injectors were swapped, and I don't know how many miles are actually on the other ones. could it be that it's not getting enough fuel injected thru the injectors to run right and build up boost. also, when I rev the truck in neutral to 3000 it revs faster now than it did before, but it still makes the overdrive light flash and throws a speed sensor code. p0500. soon as I restart the truck the light wont flash no more, but the code stays until I delete and then it stays off until I rev it to 3000 again neutral. also, in neutral it builds more boost then in gear. I get it to build about 7psi in neutral and maybe 2-3 under load. this truck is kicking my ass.
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So, you surely had a boost leak.. I did the bellowed up pipes too, and found that I had a very hard time getting everything lined up again to get a good seal. You may still have another, different, leak. Cylinder 8 will throw codes depending on the injector and CPS combo. The rest of your questions I will leave to someone else, better informed
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So, you surely had a boost leak.. I did the bellowed up pipes too, and found that I had a very hard time getting everything lined up again to get a good seal. You may still have another, different, leak. Cylinder 8 will throw codes depending on the injector and CPS combo. The rest of your questions I will leave to someone else, better informed
I made sure they seat right. can't feal any air coming out anywhere anymore .I put my hand all around it and can't feel any leakage. # 8 has the ae long injector and I do have the crossover high pressure oil line to get the oil better to #8. I have a feeling that some of them injectors are shot. throttle response got better since I did the up pipes especially in the 2000+ rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
so today I changed the up pipes out with them bellowed ones. still don't have boost. I took it on the street today and hit it a little bit. it's a dog pretty bad. also smoke for a second but stopped right away. it seemed like it had a miss under load, so I did a balance test, and it gave me a code for cylinder 8. did another test 5 min later and the code was gone. is there any way that bad injectors could cause this? that's really the only thing I didn't fully swap out. only 2 injectors were swapped, and I don't know how many miles are actually on the other ones. could it be that it's not getting enough fuel injected thru the injectors to run right and build up boost. also, when I rev the truck in neutral to 3000 it revs faster now than it did before, but it still makes the overdrive light flash and throws a speed sensor code. p0500. soon as I restart the truck the light wont flash no more, but the code stays until I delete and then it stays off until I rev it to 3000 again neutral. also, in neutral it builds more boost then in gear. I get it to build about 7psi in neutral and maybe 2-3 under load. this truck is kicking my ass.

the other thing it did was when i kicked it hard and then started to slow down the tach dropped to 0 for several seconds and then came back up .Doesnt it get the signal from the cam sensor in the front of the engine ? I swapped that out . There was a black one in it and i put a new black one back in it . Swapped it back to the old one but did same thing .
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How is your alternator and batteries? Wiring? Charging system can really mess up a lot of stuff, including engine power.... That likely caused my power issue. You aren't getting a ton of weird electrical codes though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
How is your alternator and batteries? Wiring? Charging system can really mess up a lot of stuff, including engine power.... That likely caused my power issue. You aren't getting a ton of weird electrical codes though.
Batteries are brand new same as positive cable and starter. Alternator is used but charge is normal. Ground wires are older . One has some corrosion on it. Truck starts normal and charges normal . I was thinking about electrical next . My buddy has same truck i will borrow his pcm and idm and just to make sure its not a computer problem . Since i had it on the road today it does shift a little funny and it keeps throwing the speed sensor code .
 

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Check your map sensor hose and maybe run it with the map,sensor unplugged.


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'02 7.3L Excursion 3.73 Warn Hubs AutoTranny
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if you try to clean the MAP sensor, do not use Brake Cleaner.
get MAP cleaner...

I have read that Brake cleaner will ruin the MAP sensor
 
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Congratulations! What an incredible effort. Other folks might have given up. You should have many trouble-free, reliable and enjoyable miles ahead of you.
 

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Thank you for posting the fix. This may help someone in the future. Congratulations
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Congratulations! What an incredible effort. Other folks might have given up. You should have many trouble-free, reliable and enjoyable miles ahead of you.
I'm glad I did all the work to it. now I have a solid truck. thank you so much for your help. my next project will be the rust on my OBS:cool:
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thank you for helping me on this project. of course, I share the result with you guys. the injectors weren't my only issue. I'm pretty sure 90% of the parts I swapped were actually bad. they just let this truck go. bad Maintenace .
Well, you're Y-pipe was definitely an issue too. Seems like you had a bunch of problems at once, but I love hearing when they get worked out in the end.

Don't be a stranger, these forums are a great place to share and gather info!

Wishing you the best, remember, it could've been worse, you could've have a 6 oh.
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well, you're Y-pipe was definitely an issue too. Seems like you had a bunch of problems at once, but I love hearing when they get worked out in the end.

Don't be a stranger, these forums are a great place to share and gather info!

Wishing you the best, remember, it could've been worse, you could've have a 6 oh.
I will be a part of this forum for good. a lot of great people on here. yes, for sure had a bunch of problems. I think they just let this truck go, didn't do much Maintenace. the reason i kept throwing money at it was the compression. I knew the motor was good and it's just a matter of time that she would be back to her old glory.
yeah, the 6no is a no go for me lol. I stick to the 7.3s.
 

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when I was looking to buy, I purposely ruled out every engine, except for the 7.3L which has a Long History of making 250k to 350k miles w/o major problems IF left STOCK
 
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