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7.3 Powerstroke Oil Pan

7K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  jlrsn 
#1 ·
Hello Everyone!!!

Longtime reader but first time poster....

I purchased new a 2002 F350 Duelly Extended Cab 4x4 Ford Powerstroke...I have been religeious on oil changes at 4000 miles and no higher than 4800 miles...

My question has to do with the oil pan itself...I do not know how to describe it as to say it seems to be rotting away....I have been monitoring it for some time now,and just decided to post it on here and see where it goes...

My dad who did autobody repair for eions,said to say it looks like "hamberger rot" like one would see on the sides of vehical sheetmetal... I would hazzard a guess there are 50 pluss small spots like the size of a pencil erasor,and two pretty big ones the size of a 50 cent piece with pronounce bubbling of the metal...

I have 62k on the truck and am also wondering if infact its going to have to be replaced and if so would my 100k engine warrenty cover the repairs....

Mike T /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 
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#2 ·
por-15 it
 
#4 ·
If you do a search you will find this is more common than we would like. It is pretty pittiful that a $ 48+K dollar truck has such cheap metal for the oil pan. But they do. You caught it before it goes thru. IF IT DOES go thru I BELIVE the warranty covers it. (To replace PROPERLY, the motor must be removed... so the sealer can cure on the CLEAN BLOCK AND PAN) I would just make sure that I get the loose stuff off,, navel jelly it to neutralize the rust that is there...then as mentioned above. POR-15 application. It is pretty awesome stuff!
Good luck, Your not alone!
 
#5 ·
If I read this correctly I cannot just show it to my Ford dealer and have it replaced under warrenty....I must wait till it "fails" for lack of a better word..

Mike T
 
#6 ·
Some have been told that the rust warranty doesn't cover the oil pan. I would think that the engine warranty would cover it though.
Even if neither covers it and it does rust thru, you can always drain it, plug it with anything handy and fiberglass it. I've done it on a boat pan that was moored in salt water and never had another problem with it. The POR-15 is a good way to stop the problem from getting worse, fiberglass is a good way to repair it if it's gotten out of hand. Either way, you don't have to pull the engine.
 
#8 ·
I didn't notice anyone mentioning the Ford Engine - Oil Pan Corrosion Service Tip, Article No. 03-21-46, dated 10/06/03. It states:

ENGINE - 7.3L - OIL PAN CORROSION - SERVICE TIP

FORD: 1999-2003 E SERIES, EXCURSION, SUPER DUTY F SERIES, F-650, F-750
Article 02-20-5 is being republished in its entirety as part of a consolidated 7.3L diagnostic aid booklet.

ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the 7.3L Diesel Engine may exhibit engine oil pan corrosion when operated in high salt content/corrosive environments.

ACTION
Inspect the oil pan. If corrosion is detected, use Motorcraft High Temp Anti-Corrosion Coating Part Number PM-13-A to service. Refer to the following Service Information for details.

SERVICE INFORMATION
Clean the oil pan off with a solvent to remove any dirt and oil. Using a 3" angle grinder with a 36 grit disc, grind off all loose corrosion. Blow off with air. Wash the pan with soap and water and let dry. Brush the anti-corrosion coating on the oil pan. Allow coating to dry fully before operating the vehicle.
-----------------------------

Luckily I'm in California and I don't have any rust on my oil pan but in other past postings of this same subject people who have used the Motorcraft High Temp Anti-Corrosion Coating Part Number PM-13-A say it works.

Good luck,
Jim
 
#9 ·
If ours are not rusted now, should we clean them then spray paint with zinc based paint?
 
#10 ·
If you are doing a underbody/engine water rinse after you drive on salted highways when you go to the snow you shouldn't have to. If concerned put a coating of Motorcraft High Temp Anti-Corrosion Coating Part Number PM-13-A or as mentioned above apply a coating of POR-15 on it.
 
#11 ·
I live in southern california and have never driven on a salted highway, but my oil pan is still turning to crap!

Actually, I'm in the midst of doing the POR-15 thing. Since you're supposed to take it down to bare metal, I spent this afternoon grinding off the rust and what's left of the factory paint and prepping for POR. Be sure to follow the instructions and go with the three step process.

Also, be sure to spill Marine Clean (Step #1) on yourself and then not bother to wash it off until it starts burning. Lots of fun! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
#13 ·
[ QUOTE ]
Will the POR-15 stand up to the high heat from the hot oil?
thanks
rich

[/ QUOTE ]

According to the POR-15 website, it's supposed to handle up to 700 degrees. Since our oil temps don't come even close to that, there shouldn't be a problem.
 
#14 ·
A POR-15® coating was subjected to 700°F for 10 hours; it remained hard and showed no apparent loss of adhesion. See Laboratory Test Results at the bottom of the FAQs.
 
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