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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning all,

I am upgrading some components on my stock 02 7.3psd cc long bed auto trans w/ 250,000 miles in order to do some heavy bumper towing. I have already gotten a 4 gauge a pillar with trans temp, boost, fuel pressure, and egts. I am putting a class V draw tite 2.5” hitch receiver on as well. The only two things I am concerned with now are brakes and engine oil temps.

what are the best brake pad/rotor combos to do this sort of towing effectively? Is oem good enough?

do I need to install an eot gauge in addition to my others or is the oem dash gauge acceptable?

Thank you so much for any help you can offer!
 

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do I need to install an eot gauge in addition to my others or is the oem dash gauge acceptable?
the OEM oil gage in your dash is nothing more than an idiot light. Better to have the real temp, also there’s a delta between the engines oil temp and engine coolant temp* (see example below)
Your computer gets feedback from the oil sensor on temp but there is no feedback for coolant temp.
If you you get a ScanGauge2 to keep plugged into your OBD2 port, oil temperature is one of the live time gauges you can select among many others as well as other diagnostic capability.

(* when my coolant temp (idiot light) on my dash was going up to “HOT” I was sure it was a bad sensor (top of water pump) because the engine oil temp on my ScanGage2 was reading normal) and it was a bad sensor.
 

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what are the best brake pad/rotor combos to do this sort of towing effectively? Is oem good enough?
As OEM is what Ford uses when setting guidelines for your trucks GVWR and CVWR I see no advantage to using aftermarket as opposed to sticking to Ford OEM equipment.
 
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The secrete to stopping a heavy load is to have good trailer brakes along with a good trailer brake controller. The factory brakes are not designed to stop heavy loads and you will find that a heavy load will actually push you down the road when you try to stop it if the trailer brakes are not working properly. No matter what brakes you have on your truck.
 
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What Bugman said. In most jurisdictions, any trailer with over 3500 lb axles (which your 10k trailer would have) has to have brakes. There are two kinds of trailer brakes: surge brakes, which use a master cylinder activating by a sliding tongue arrangement, or electric brakes. If you have the electric brakes, you must have a brake controller installed for them to work. Your 02 will be pre-wired for a controller so it's pretty much plug and play. A couple hundred will get you set up with a controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, I have forscan on my laptop but it’s a little bulky to drive around with so I’ll look at some more portable solutions. Im going to be using electric trailer brakes and have been seeing the p3 prodigy is a popular brake controller, I think I’ll pick up that one as well.
 

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Exactly! The OP asked about his tow vehicle. I don’t think anyone disputes that a trailer should be set up safely. At least this wasn’t another post of someone with 20,000 lb. CVWR wanting to pull 18,000 pounds - Lol 🤣
 

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Bigger trans cooler is a must on these trucks...and beware that the bypass system can go bad and raise temps after 100k miles. Been there, done that...lol
May also need rear air bags if it squats too much.
 
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Got some good advice from above contributors/owners.

I also have a 6.0 transmission cooler & Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid. I seldom see over 175 degrees towing our small travel trailer even in hot Texas summers and mountains.

Be sure to buy the best & heaviest trailer tire possible. Good trailer breaks are a must.

I have tried many brake pads/rotors over the years but still coming back to Ford Motorcraft severe duty and Motorcraft rotors as my favorite for good stopping power.

Good luck!
 

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Good morning all,

I am upgrading some components on my stock 02 7.3psd cc long bed auto trans w/ 250,000 miles in order to do some heavy bumper towing. I have already gotten a 4 gauge a pillar with trans temp, boost, fuel pressure, and egts. I am putting a class V draw tite 2.5” hitch receiver on as well. The only two things I am concerned with now are brakes and engine oil temps.

what are the best brake pad/rotor combos to do this sort of towing effectively? Is oem good enough?

do I need to install an eot gauge in addition to my others or is the oem dash gauge acceptable?

Thank you so much for any help you can offer!
 

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powestop slotted and drilled worked for me...I never thought work the price they would work...FYI been a mechanic 45 years follow breakin procedure to the letter replace all 4 rotors and pads same time ,make sure all slides are cleaned lubed and in good shape...Also always wash rotors hot water and dish soap before intall,lowers the chance of brake noise. btw I tow over 11500lbs
 
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