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These projects that require alot of labor...
Is this going to be a lot of labor? I didn't really look closely at the injectors, but I assumed it would be about like changing the GPs. Is there more to it than pulling the valve covers, a bolt or 2 per injector, pop it out, swap the O-rings, & shove it back in? Are there any common problems that arise during this job, like losing parts in the engine or things breaking/jamming/not going back in easily?
The Aliant ones I got...were in sealed packages...
Were the packages branded? Alliant, Ford/MC, or Int'l.?

That dealership doesn't appear to sell direct. Their "Shop Now" button takes me to the corporate site, which asks for my local ZIP, and then shows $18ea.
 

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This is the link I use for the dealer: AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake
I think the o-ring packs I got were branded with Alliant, but not positive (it's been a number of years now).

For replacing o-rings, this is what I generally do (hope I don't skip anything):
Remove intake plumbing/valvecovers/etc on top of engine.
Remove the UVCHs
I rewove the glowplugs.
Remove the oil rail drain plugs. These are small o-ring sealed Allen-headed plugs just underneath the top VC sealing surface. I think there are 2 per side. It will lessen the amount of oil that drains into the cylinders when injectors are removed. Not everyone will do this step. Replace the plugs (o-rings are 3C3Z-9C064-BA). Be careful not to drop these during R&R!
Remove the injector oil deflector spouts and outboard (lower) injector holddown bolts. The inboard (upper) holddown bolts do not get loosened or removed.
Pry out the injectors ensuring the injector holddown plate is moved so the plate's key-hole slot will clear the inboard (upper) bolt's head. You can also use the special tool (or a piece of flat bar and a long bolt with the same threads as the oil deflector spout bolt) to "jack out" the injector as shown in the picture. Most folks just use a prybar being careful not to damage anything.
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Organism Font Motor vehicle Art Illustration


Make sure none of the injector tip copper washer gaskets are left in the cups.
Inspect everything (injectors/cups) for obvious irregularities.
I clean the cup sealing surfaces with some scotchbrite attached to a large dowel.
I suck out any fuel and oil that drained from the rails into the cylinders through the injector cup holes (I do all cylinders) using a MightyVac.
Replace all the injector o-rings, liberally lubing them with some motor oil. Replace the copper washers.
Injectors can be replaced and generally pushed into place. I've had to tap them down with a soft mallet the last bit being careful not to damage the solenoid. There is a special tool for this, but most folks don't have it (see pic). Again make sure the holddown plate clears the inboard holdown bolt head.
Font Art Auto part Rectangle Illustration


Replace the outboard holddown bolts and torque to 140 in-lbs. You can use a straightedge across the tops of the injectors to make sure they are all at the same level.
Replace the spouts.
Using a breaker bar, I rotate the engine over by hand 2 or 3 revolutions to make sure any fuel/oil I missed with the MightyVac gets evacuated out the removed glowplugs' holes. Some folks will then use the starter to turn over the engine to make sure all fluid is out (put valvecovers temporarily in place to avoid possibly splattering liquid out the GP holes!). This will also get oil/fuel back into the rails a bit easier with less compression.
Replace the glowplugs/UVCHs/valvecovers/etc.

Hope that is helpful. Cheers!
 

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Very! But how many oil rail O-rings are there total? Do they always need to be replaced, or is it just cheap insurance not to reuse them? Have you ever attempted to clear the oil with shop air so none goes into the cylinders? Am I reading correctly that using the starter to clear the cylinders is better (as long as the spray is captured)?

Does anyone have pics of the injector remover/installer tools? I might fabricate my own if they're not complex shapes.

That dealer wants ~$20sh plus tax, so the links I posted earlier are still much cheaper. If RR/DOR are selling the OEM parts in sealed branded packaging for less than Int'l/Ford parts, I'll buy from them. I just don't want to risk knock-offs being "substituted".
 

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I don't bother removing the oil rail plugs. Doesn't matter as long as you clear the oil and fuel from the cylinders.

What I do is pull #8 and #7 first, which drains the bulk of the oil and fuel into those rear cylinders. Then suck the oil out, install the injectors, and with the glow plugs out, turn over by hand 2 complete revolutions, then set the valve covers in place with a couple of loose bolts and then reconnect the harness and crank with the starter using the key until the starter loads up (indicating that the HPOP is pressurizing the rails). The engine won't start because there's no compression.
THEN install the glow plugs and with the valve covers still off, crank it over and start it. It will blow a bit of smoke from the residual fuel/oil, but usually starts nearly as quickly as normal.

If you aren't in a hurry, buy your o-rings from Autonation Ford White Bear Lake. Discounted prices for genuine Ford/Motorcraft parts.
 

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I don't think I've ever replaced those o-rings, but I listed it for those folks that replace o-rings every time. As mentioned, most folks never remove them. I like to turn over the engine by had first because if there was sufficient fluid in a cylinder, you could still basically almost hydrolock it even with an open port for the fluid to pass through. The fluid can only exit so fast. It may not be a problem, but I feel better doing that way. Also try this link for the factory o-rings: 1993-2003 Ford Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit XC3Z-9229-AB | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

Cheers!
 

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Discounted prices...
But REALLY-high shipping to me, so I'm not buying these O-rings from them. I ship parts, too, and I can't comprehend anyone charging $20 to ship parts that would fit in a 1st Class envelope for $0.55. I'll save the link & check them for other parts later.

Thanks for posting your procedure. I like knowing several ways to do a job.
I don't think I've ever replaced those o-rings...
But you know how many there are, right? I can't decide if or where to order them until I know how many I'd need.

Thanks for the links to the tools - I couldn't find them, but I might not have just Googled the PNs..



159053
 

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I'd love to tell you the correct amount of o-rings for those plugs, but I don't know for sure (I think it's 2 per side or four total based on some parts diagrams I have). They are also dash 902 o-rings (Viton most likely). Cheers!
 

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I also believe there are two oil drain plugs per side, for a total of 4. Not sure of the size, but Patrick's guess of dash 902 may be correct. But they'd definitely be Viton. The one time I removed the drain plugs, I didn't bother replacing the o-rings, and they're still holding many years later.
Where are you that AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake would charge you that much for shipping? If you ask them, they'll ship USPS. Give them a call. I've ordered quite a few things from them and their shipping charges aren't that bad, unlike other places that insist on shipping things to Alaska by 2nd Day Air for more than the part costs. 8 packages of injector o-rings should cost maybe 5 bucks via USPS.
You really don't need the tools. I just use a small prybar (actually a brake adjusting tool) for removal, and the heel of my hand for reinstallation of injectors, occaisionally a light tap with a rubber mallet.
On your question about using air to purge the fuel and oil rails, that won't work because the ports to the injectors run down toward the injectors. You could remove the 4 larger plugs (3 on the driver's side plus the ICP sensor) on each head and suction the oil out of each one, but there's really no way to prevent some fuel and oil from getting into the cylinders when you pull the injectors.
 

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No special tools needed, Klhansen and I have done several sets of injectors together, (I think 4 hours for a full set in a 1999 was the fastest we have done) the break adjusting tool works fine just don't pry on any plastic parts. Use a small vacuum/fuel line over the top of the glow plugs to help start the threads when you put them back in. I also agree pull the back injectors first and suck out the oil/fuel with any vacuum pump. Once injectors are in leave glow plugs out, set valve covers on with one or two bolts just to hold in place leave main harness unplugged. Spin engine with starter, that will clear the pistons of any left over fuel/oil. Caution!! if you leave the valve covers off you will coat the walls of the shop with oil/fuel, been there done dat!! A warm shop and a few friends make this a fun day project (hold the beer until done) DENNY
 

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Where are you...?
Memphis
...a brake adjusting tool) for removal, and the heel of my hand for reinstallation of injectors, occaisionally a light tap with a rubber mallet.
...there's really no way to prevent some fuel and oil from getting into the cylinders when you pull the injectors.
Good info. Thanks.
Use a small vacuum/fuel line over the top of the glow plugs to help start the threads when you put them back in.
I didn't have any trouble R&R'ing the GPs when I got the truck. They all zipped out & in with just a small cordless impact. IDK when I'll do this job - I just want to have the parts here for when it becomes necessary.

I ended up buying these:


...and 2 (pairs) of these:


I have the service disk, and I will read the procedure before beginning, but I came across this on PSN:
ziggystardust said:
If the injectors are even a little loose, the loose injector will allow the compression gasses lift the injector cup and the compression gasses will go around the outside of the cup and enter the coolant. There's a lot of posts about torqueing the injector bolts. I found out the hard way after replacing my cups and the instructions neglected to mention the torqueing procedure.
...
...loose injector bolts. I replaced all the cups again, cleaned the injector bolt holes with acetone and reinstalled the injectors with new "O"-rings (make SURE there are the copper washers in the kits), applied blue loctite to the injector bolts and then torqued the bolts.
Does that sound right?
 

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I don't think those o-rings are correct for the oil drain plug. It says they're for the oil pressure switch that goes on top of the HPOP reservoir, which would be larger than the oil drain plug inside the valve covers. BTW, Autonation Ford White Bear Lake lists those for 51 cents per package.

You definitely want to get the injectors torqued down correctly. I've never used any loctite on the bolts and haven't had issues. If they are not seated all the way, you may not get combustion gasses into the coolant past the cups, but it will get into the fuel injector space and may burn the o-rings at the lower part of the fuel gallery.
 

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I've never used locktite either. As I mentioned, don't loosen or remove the inboard (upper) injector holddown bolt! Only the outboard (lower) bolt gets R&R'ed and then torqued to 140 inch-pounds. The manual used to state 120 in-ibs, but they had a TSB that increased it to 140. I'll have to see if I can find it. Cheers!
 

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Agree with ArticDriver, there is a lot of labor to have aftermarket issues later. I too recommend Motocraft, especially for the valve cover wiring harness.
 

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I don't think those o-rings are correct for the oil drain plug.
Regardless of the name, that's the PN Patrick posted in #22.
...Autonation Ford White Bear Lake lists those for 51 cents per package.
Then you're seeing different prices than I am. Got a link?
That page shows me $11.62.
...a TSB that increased it to 140. I'll have to see if I can find it.
I trust you, and I have several calibrated torque wrenches, including 2 scaled in in-lbs.
...Motocraft, especially for the valve cover wiring harness.
I changed them to Dorman lifers when I changed all the GPs.

(click this text)


The Ford/MC injector O-ring packs showed up today.
159065
 

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Then you're seeing different prices than I am. Got a link?
I was referring to the smaller orings 3C3Z-9C064-BA that you paid $6.50 for on eBay.
Same PN is $0.51 at AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake
 

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I got the part number for the oil rail drain plug o-rings from the old International Part Book (in Spanish) and crossed to the Ford number from the Ford/International Parts Interchange. Both are located in this forum's FAQ sub-forum (1 post from me and and the other from Bugman). I sure hope they are correct. Cheers!
 

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I was referring to the smaller orings 3C3Z-9C064-BA that you paid $6.50 for on eBay.
You're right - I confused the PNs when I was searching. But...
Ford White Bear Lake said:
3C3Z-9C064-BA $0.51 Quantity 4 $2.04
Subtotal Amount: $2.04
Estimated shipping to Memphis, TN : $13.85
That's more just for shipping than my ebay total, so I'm still doing better.
I sure hope they are correct.
I probably won't know for years since I have no reason to change the injector O-rings yet. They'll just stay in the truck's tool box until I see oil in the fuel filter.
 

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3C3Z-9C064-BA comes in a package of two. So you only need 2 packages for your whole engine. If you'd call them they probably would have shipped that $1.02 order for a couple bucks by USPS. But you did get free shipping (which probably cost them $1). Anyway, you did OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Ok, I got around to looking at the fuel filter for blackness, what I saw was a very clean appearing filter bowl, clear greenish tint, able to see the bottom easily, and the filter itself still has the cardboard tan color, I don't think this is what we expected.

So, this leaves the turbo oil supply maybe? Or is there something else that can change rapidly from no loss to massive loss of oil? I do not hotrod this at all, its not seen a harsh lifespan, but it does have better that 180,000 miles
on it.

Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Coil Auto part Gas
 
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