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ya those are them. should go over the large ground wire on the firewall. or do like nick did and find the wire in the bundle by the wipers and shield it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
NYB, I was worried about having to solder in more wire so I would have enough lengths to make the loops my electrical engineer friend told me I might have to do. I said nah ( to myself of course) I'm going to just clamp over and see if that does it first.
SuperDutyTrooper, those are the ones but there are different diameters, so pick up a few bags of the small and big sizes.
That red harness you see I had cut that open to expose the four or five wires going to wiper motor and then paced one of those bullet looking chokes on each wire. Then I used the larger box shaped one to clamp over the whole group of wires, note shape of red glob. The larger box one going over all is the white one pictured on table I picked up at electronics store on the way home. Radio shake has the but just black instead of white. You want a tight fit on the wire so you need the different sizes.
I electrical taped up wires and placed a piece of cardboard underneath and then brushed on Plasti dip.
Sorry this is a poor write up in the specifics department and photos and whatnot but this started the day before I took of for the beach. The truck had a couple minor misses you could only feel in the steering wheel in the line to the ATM. Ran home and scanned my dark blue International was going up and I was taking off in the morning so I just grabbed a NAPA Elichins, turned wipers on and it did not shut off. Ran test and saw the numbers I posted. Life's great take off, drives better than brand new. Second night down there and I am outside with them in intermitant mode outside a restaurant for ten minutes and bam!
I have tested with different volumes of water and mist in every single wiper detent, well over an hour and half. I cannot kill it now.
I have since rolled into local police station parking lot, no shut off. I repeated with fire department, no shut off. I repeated by going to a field with four communication towers lined with gadgets and dishes, no shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Kevin ford told the NTSB that the problem with the originals failing was a wire bundle separating internally. Perhaps they had interference issues as well, I never did, just the failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Doing just the ground wires on fire wall did nothing even after placing one one each of the three cps wires.
I still had engine shut ifs after ten minutes of the water testing.
I WAS NOT successful in this till I placed one on each of the wires going into the wiper motor and then placing the larger one over the whole bundle of wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I found two of the three bags with the part numbers and one of each of the three chokes I used.
I think with the picture of the three items and two of the part numbers one could go to web site and put it together.
Again the largest of the three is white in picture but will be black in Radio Shack brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So this image is what I believe NYB had in mind and my electrical engineer buddy said I might have to do if doing just a straight run through did not work.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Just doing this with the three different sizes worked, thankfully.
The wires are different gauges so you need the different sizes for a snug fit.
 

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This thread is what I've been looking for for about 12 years! Thanks for sharing your info and making life easier for others.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Supertrooper, I missed your post. Cut the tape open holding the wires together by the motor to seperate the wires. I placed a small choked( pictured) on each wire. I then used a larger one to cover all of the wires there. I then taped up with a high quality electrical tape. Place rags under it and brush on plasti dip. This is what I did at wiper motor.
 

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Did you leave any of your ferrite chokes that you earlier tried on your CPS harness in place also? Or did you remove all your CPS chokes, and just choke the Wiper Motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I got the guidance from my electrical engineer friend but the conversation immediately gets elevated above my head. I have to reel him back in and get him to make things simpler, he gets frustrated, I get half you know what offed and I kinda piece things together for myself.
I started at cps connector and it failed after 10 minutes off water test. I was upset and smoking a cigarette by the firewall and saw the grounds. Gary said don't even bother with the grounds. Being upset it was failing only at idle during water test I was going to prove him wrong and punish him for not being able to explain it without acting like it was a lecture in a M.I.T. Lab. I it them on the grounds and got soaked for ten minutes. Big Surprise, Gary was right and Nick was impatient and acting like a child.
I then pulled wiper arm and cover. I then cut open tape on wires and did the rest outlined above. It was unscientific because... Well I told you. I don't know if it was accumulative but it wasn't untill I got at the motor.
Even if you do all the chokes I did it's not much money.
I suggest insulating the cps harness with heat shielding when you pull it up to put beads on it so the harness never gets burnt by ebp sensor tube.
 

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So are you implying that electrical interference (or in your case water intrusion) is causing problems with the CPS?

I've been having issues that act identical to a failing CPS though it has been dry here for months. One of your earlier posts got me thinking about where (on the road) my failures have occured. Two of my failures occured within a mile of each other on a section of road that I rarely travel. The third failure I had (third CPS too) was on an access rd between our hospital and one of our local cell providers' office. I can't think of anything near the roadway for failures A & B but there could be some high tension wires or an antenna farm behind the trees there...

I think I will try to pick up some of these chokes and see what happens...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Not water intrusion but the electrical noise or interferrance caused by the windshield wiper motor and this cps's inability to deal with it.
Like I said this came from an engineer and I am not. He had gone over the whole gambit of what happens and can. So I did very best I could by testing as extensively as possible for any failure situations or environments that fit with what Gary talked about.
In the 1980s everyday at rush hour 1/4 before a massive radio tower next to the beltway cars would stall out and restart. Seemed to be at those idle speeds.
If you think it's outside interferrance choke the signal return as close to pcm as possible, like up by harness connector and vice versa for cps pos. And ground. The idea there is to see it as the wire being an antenna in a way so you want to kill off caos as close to effected item as possible.
That's really the only way I know how to explain the things I interpreted from Gary.
Speaking of Gary, he was considering getting an old 7.3idi. It would be nice to have him as a member. Guys like that and people like Tinman and others here that really know electricity are nice to have around.
 

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This thread caught my attention - mostly because it's been a long time since I've spent anytime here and I thought CPS issues were long gone! (apparently not)

I had some issues when I first bought my early '99, on rare occasions it would stall while idling but fire right back up. While researching I found this board and decided to replace the CPS as it was a known issue (this was before the recall) so I replaced it with one from the International dealer and never had another issue. Also picked up another to carry as a spare from Ebay.

Then one time I had the truck in the dealer for something else and they said they'd need to replace the CPS because of the recall. I said fine, but I've already replaced it so can you just throw the old one in the glove box so I have two spares now.. they said no they had to send all replaced ones in so I just said go ahead.

Anyway, that was a couple of hundred thousand km's ago and the truck has always ran fine, never gave me any (CPS) issues since, and I have 670,000 km's on it. I've certainly never ran into the stalling with the wipers going while raining as described here. Am I just lucky or is my truck somehow immune from this?

The ferrite fix caught my interest though - as a hobby I fly FPV (first person view) on remote controlled aircraft and many of us in the hobby loop video transmitter wires (or other wires depending on issue) through ferrite rings if there is interference issues between the video transmission and radio signal transmission. Some also use shielded CAT5 cable in place of regular wires.

I'm wondering if shielding the wires described here with ferrite would be a prudent thing to do, even if I've never experienced the problems described here. I also just started a thread about my truck running rough when cold, but I'm assuming it's injector related, as they've never been replaced yet. Would or could CPS interference cause an engine to run rough when it was cold only?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
This modification is for use with NAPA's ELCHINs model cps. That cps gives the very best crank rotation change reports, passes the cylinder contribution test, makes it run like glass, more power(my gosh) and better fuel economy. The other CPSs out there do not shut your truck off due to interferrance. This one will. So if you want all the best things like what's listed above you have to use chokes on this model to not have an interferrance issue.
Do you have a scanner capable of streaming live data on your truck?
 

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This modification is for use with NAPA's ELCHINs model cps. That cps gives the very best crank rotation change reports, passes the cylinder contribution test, makes it run like glass, more power(my gosh) and better fuel economy. The other CPSs out there do not shut your truck off due to interferrance. This one will. So if you want all the best things like what's listed above you have to use chokes on this model to not have an interferrance issue.
Do you have a scanner capable of streaming live data on your truck?
Oh I see now, so just the NAPA one then.. I may have to see if I can get one up here and see how much difference I notice in how the truck runs.

What exactly do you mean by streaming live data?
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
There is a Borg Warner model that will shut off your engine as well.
There are code readers and there are scanners. Codes are set when certain things are out of range. You can have issues and no codes can be set.
A scanner can pull the codes, initiate self test programs that are in the truck's PCM as well as monitor particular components and how they are performing. In the beginning of thread you will see attachments that have screen shots that show this.
You can pick up Auto Ingenuity with the enhanced Ford Pwr. Train for about $375 dollars. It works on your Windows based lap top.
A scanner is extremely helpful to have with your truck. One repair you do yourself will cover its cost.
You can go on net and find best price. If you buy from AE directly you will pay full retail, about $40 more but if you have a problem and you call them you can not be told to deal with that vendor for support. YES, they actually initially tried that with me.
You can get a full on Professional scanner but you will be way over a grand, more like at least $3500 when all is said and done.
If you own one of these trucks you will be doing yourself a favor by getting a scanner that has 7.3 capable software.
 

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There is a Borg Warner model that will shut off your engine as well.
There are code readers and there are scanners. Codes are set when certain things are out of range. You can have issues and no codes can be set.
A scanner can pull the codes, initiate self test programs that are in the truck's PCM as well as monitor particular components and how they are performing. In the beginning of thread you will see attachments that have screen shots that show this.
You can pick up Auto Ingenuity with the enhanced Ford Pwr. Train for about $375 dollars. It works on your Windows based lap top.
A scanner is extremely helpful to have with your truck. One repair you do yourself will cover its cost.
You can go on net and find best price. If you buy from AE directly you will pay full retail, about $40 more but if you have a problem and you call them you can not be told to deal with that vendor for support. YES, they actually initially tried that with me.
You can get a full on Professional scanner but you will be way over a grand, more like at least $3500 when all is said and done.
If you own one of these trucks you will be doing yourself a favor by getting a scanner that has 7.3 capable software.
Thanks - good info.. may look into that.
 

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I'm not convinced it only applies to certain CPS'es. I had my truck in for security module issues and while there they pulled my original CPS for the recall. I've had issues ever since with Ford, and Int'l CPS's, I don't get stall hardly ever but it still stumbles on occasion.

I'm going to try these ferrite rings and then start swapping CPS again just to see if it helps them all. I don't think I've tried the Echlin PN though.

Thank You Maryland dieselnick for sharing your find.
 
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