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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I've got a 91 f250 7.3idi 2wdr with e4od I rebuilt about 6 months ago. I had the truck running fine until I had some electrical probs, I've brunt up 3 pcm computers for the tranny and believe me there not cheap or easy to find at scrap yards, when they burn out the tranny goes into "limp mode" with the OD light dim with no rpm reading, I know for a fact it's the computer I soddered the cuircuts that shorted on the pcm board with two wires connected with a fuse because it shorts out occasionally then I get and rpm reading it fixes that but it won't shift out of first gear so it must have taken something else out with it because my torque converter locks up in first gear with the computer plugged in.. I'm tired of these electrical problems and have been trying to figure it out too long and pcm's are to hard and expensive to just put in the truck and hope it don't fry like the others I would rather have a manual tranny in my old rig anyway I could do away with all computers??. I found this truck at a junk yard its and 88' f350 with gasoline engine not sure which engine maybe 5.8l??With a manual tranny, could that tranny pssibly fit in my 7.3idi, my truck is an f250. The other is an f350, so it's gotta be a big tranny pretty sure it's a zf5, y'all think it might fit????,I'll also be buying a diffrent flywheel and clutch to fit my 7.3 what about other parts like whole clutch pedal assembly any other straps clamps cables peadals etc. etc., every thing I would need to just put straight into my Rig. Any advise would be awesome thanks!!??
 

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the bell housing's have different bolt patterns, you have to get a tranny out of a diesel truck, or have an adapter made
 

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Hey everyone, I've got a 91 f250 7.3idi 2wdr with e4od I rebuilt about 6 months ago. I had the truck running fine until I had some electrical probs, I've brunt up 3 pcm computers for the tranny and believe me there not cheap or easy to find at scrap yards, when they burn out the tranny goes into "limp mode" with the OD light dim with no rpm reading, I know for a fact it's the computer I soddered the cuircuts that shorted on the pcm board with two wires connected with a fuse because it shorts out occasionally then I get and rpm reading it fixes that but it won't shift out of first gear so it must have taken something else out with it because my torque converter locks up in first gear with the computer plugged in.. I'm tired of these electrical problems and have been trying to figure it out too long and pcm's are to hard and expensive to just put in the truck and hope it don't fry like the others I would rather have a manual tranny in my old rig anyway I could do away with all computers??. I found this truck at a junk yard its and 88' f350 with gasoline engine not sure which engine maybe 5.8l??With a manual tranny, could that tranny pssibly fit in my 7.3idi, my truck is an f250. The other is an f350, so it's gotta be a big tranny pretty sure it's a zf5, y'all think it might fit????,I'll also be buying a diffrent flywheel and clutch to fit my 7.3 what about other parts like whole clutch pedal assembly any other straps clamps cables peadals etc. etc., every thing I would need to just put straight into my Rig. Any advise would be awesome thanks!!??
Let me know how you make out. I just a 90 F-250 with the E4OD and it has 214,000 miles on it. I will be pulling a trailer with it, so my hopes of it holding up long isn't very high. Plus I want to add a plow this winter, so switching to a manual instead of rebuilding the automatic would be a wiser choice for me.

Any pictures or tips would be greatly appreciated! And good luck with the switchover.
 

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There are no cables. You'll want a pedal box from an '87-'91 truck; the pedal boxes changed with each generation. Roughly, you'll need:
* 2WD ZF5 diesel transmission. The '96-'97 trucks got a ZF-S5-47, which is rated for slightly higher torque than the ZF-S5-42 used in the earlier trucks.
* Shifter and boot. Good luck finding a boot without a cracked base, and/or rubber underneath tore up
* Floorboard plate for manual (hole for shifter) - and cut a tasteful hole in the carpet/mat
* Column cover for manual (no shifter)
* Longer driveshaft (or have one remade from your driveshaft
* Clutch and flywheel
* Pedal box
* Wiring to the reverse light switch
* Hydraulics, including the pedal switch on the pushrod. Personally, I **HATE** bleeding the clutch hydraulics on these trucks. There are no pre-bled complete kits available for the '83-'86 or '87-'91 trucks. When the slave went on my '85, I bought a pre-bled kit for the '92-up trucks, and made a minor mod to fit the slave to the firewall.
* For cosmetics, the "fig leaf" cover over the PRND21 display on the cluster

Ideal sitch is a compatible donor truck, so you can pick and pull what you need as you need it.

Hmm, just spitballin', but MAYBE, if you got a pedal box from a '92-up truck, the '92-up pre-bled hydraulics kit would be a direct bolt-up. That would require some research. On ONE of the forum sites (OBN maybe?), someone posted a thread with compare/contrast pics of the three generations of pedal box. That might shed some light on what would fit what, and with what master.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've already rebuilt the tranny, it works fine except for the computer going out all the time, my grandpa bought The truck from the dealer And used it pulling very heavy stuff tractors, pavers etc. and with 500 thousand miles it's running great! I might make a switch box to control my tranny solenoid so it will be and electronic manual lol!!! It's got two solenoids for shifting so I'm gonna have 3 switches for shift solenoid 1 & 2 and torque converter lock up, like I said the tranny is brand new I just rebuilt it with new clutches solenoid pack and torque converter, I just don't get along with computers, other than this the Idi in my opinion is one of the best engines ever made and simple to work on and believe me, my grandfather did not treat this truck very well, it's been to hell and back
 

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It's probably not the tranny that's cooking the TCMs. Have you checked your charging system? I forget offhand what generation alternator you have, but your voltage regulator (external or internal, depending on what your year has) may be faulty and causing the alternator to overcharge. Or it may be some other electrical system problem.

Not that I wouldn't endorse a manual swap; I always prefer manuals. But you may have some other underlying problem, and the fried TCMs are only one symptom you're currently experiencing. If there is some other underlying problem, swapping the tranny won't solve that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm gonna make a harness to my controller from the solenoid pack so I'll control the solinoid for the most part I have a buddy of mine that reads schematics and is very good with wireing and has been to school for automatic trannys and diesel school and has a good understanding of my trucks wiring pluse I rebuilt it my self useing a ATSG rebuild manual so I also know a thing or two. also installed injectors & pump, new alternator, fule pump, radiator, pcm relays, rewired glow plug harness(like new), did away with glow plug controller and installed manual switch, voltage regulator, also I should have said I drove it the other day around the block the more I stepped on the gas the higher my battery level went up?? (But still only first gear) Also I have a push start button to start the truck due to my ignition switch being broke so it's like the key is always on. I just leave the batteries in plunged and unpluge the ip pump to turn off the truck i will be posting some pic soon, I could use the advice I'm just learning as I go
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Plus if I go with manual I could rewire everything else and do away with so much bull **** wires I won't need, and don't get me wrong the voltage doesn't always go up only sometimes it doesn't always lead the my computer fuse blowing
 

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That sounds like a voltage regulation / charging system issue. Doesn't matter if it's intermittent; if it happens at all, you're risking damaging things.

What's wrong with the ignition switch, that an adjustment or replacement wouldn't fix? Would be a lot safer than getting out of the truck and reaching under the hood to stop the engine. And a lot less work than a bunch of in-cab control switches for the transmission. If you ever get pulled over, and of course the first thing out of the LEO's mouth is a request to stop the engine, and you reach for the door handle, it, um, might not turn out well....

('Course, with a manual, you could just stall it with the clutch. Or, with your Franken-manu-matic idea, include a switch to lock the TC; that would stop the engine quick-time.....)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was also wondering what these wire are for yellow, red yellow wire is coming off the yellow plugged into the voltage regulator
 

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That regulator picture sure looks like an abortion, it's no wonder your blowing the TEAC that many times.

If you would have changed over to a 3G alternator, you would have been better off.

Instead of doing all those switches to try and control the trans., just get a Bauman controller.

1st p[ic is a 1G alt. 2nd pic is a 3G alt.
 

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Man-U-Matic!

But +1 Bill's first sentence. I bet if you clean up the wiring setup for that regulator, or convert to 3G, you'll stop blowing up your electronics.
 

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That wiring has some fine crapsmanship. I third serious electrical issues there.

Fix your wiring! As you run fire risk as well as the computers geting cooked.
 

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Parts required for Transmission swap

I have a 91 F-250 7.3 2wd that came with an E4OD. The transmission failed on me twice and Ford would not stand behind it so I put in a ZF5-42. The parts list previously mentioned in this thread were spot on. I used a single mass flywheel conversion since the dual mass had so many problems according to various forums. The drive shaft was a different length from the transmission to the hanger bearing so I did some mixing and matching there. I was fortunate in that the guy I bought the tranny from was parting out his truck so I got the drive shaft and crossmember thrown in with the tranny. The other half of the story is that the crossmember I just happen to pick up was also required since it mounts in a different spot. The holes were already drilled in the frame for it. I did the swap with the truck on jack stands after building a dolly to fit the oil pan on the E4OD so I could roll it out from under the truck. With the seat out I used a cherry picker through the passenger door to lower and raise the transmissions into place. Since the balance point for the transmissions was under the dash and there was no room for vertical movement I used a Harbor Freight come-a-long on the top rail of the cherry picker with a pully mounted in the tip where the chain goes. A little cutting was required to fit the pully in the rail but it worked out quite well. I went to House of Hose in Spokane and they made me a ss braided clutch line so I could route it myself rather than rely on the prebent plastic one from Ford. Most of the E4-OD wiring I just zip tied out of the way except for the back up light switch. I also left the shunt in the clutch pedal switch. The cruise control works fine. I just tap the brake or use the switch on the wheel to disengage it. I'm old school so I always put the tranny in neutral for starting. I use factory service manuals and wiring diagrams for assistance and reference. I bought them when I bought the truck new in 91. Now I've got to track down the low oil pressure issue at idle. I think I've got problems in the pressure regulator. The oil has been changed every 2500 miles since new. LESSONS LEARNED: Never buy an automatic. Every one I've ever owned has failed and I am not hard on them. I'll never buy another new Ford where "Quality is job one." Don't believe it. It's all about the bucks. The oil pressure header is no longer supported by Ford and is not on their parts list.
 
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