[R&W tractors]

i have a 2000 7.3 , 4'' turboback staright pipe, new glow pulugs, new ipr, new fuel pump, and icp. this truck takes a decent amount of cranking to get it start. it just has to crank for about 10-25 seconds before it starts. 120k miles, it blows white smoke on idle . it smells like fuel. it gets less bad when warm, but still starts hard when warm. engine has very little blow by and runs great. could this be injector o-rings/seals, or icp, or glow plugs or uvc harnesses? why would it take a long time to crank? thanks in advance

 

[Illinois7.3]

My 7.3 has 50,000 miles on it and it does the same thing most of the white (smoke) is water vapor that is steamed by the exhaust when the truck cools down after the last time you drove it, the rest is exhaust feums that only show up when there is rapid cooling of the gaseous exhaust that is saturated with unburned fuel from your hard start ( mostly when the air is below 25 degrees Fahrenheit) its perfectly normal and it goes away as your exhaust pipe warms to above freezing. there is most likely nothing wrong with your truck unless the exhaust smells sweet then you might have to find the header that's leaking antifreeze into your combustion chambers

 

[ArcticDriver]

i have a 2000 7.3 , 4'' turboback staright pipe, new glow pulugs, new ipr, new fuel pump, and icp. this truck takes a decent amount of cranking to get it start. it just has to crank for about 10-25 seconds before it starts. 120k miles, it blows white smoke on idle . it smells like fuel. it gets less bad when warm, but still starts hard when warm. engine has very little blow by and runs great. could this be injector o-rings/seals, or icp, or glow plugs or uvc harnesses? why would it take a long time to crank? thanks in advance

Have you tested your GPR to see if it is working?

Do you plug your block heater in and it still takes 10-25 seconds?

My 2000 with 3X the miles as the Esteemed Gentleman from the Land of Lincoln starts in seconds.

 

[yan7gin]

witch brand of GP's and ICP did you install?

like Articdriver said, test GPR and plug it through the night and see if its still the same next day.

Test GP's with a Ohm meter through the UVCG plug.

 

[R&W tractors]

dorman gp's and ebay icp. i know its not steam.

 

[ArcticDriver]

dorman gp's and ebay icp. i know its not steam.

It is a popular forum practice to stay with Motorcraft GPs.

It is also very common for the GP Relay to quit working even more than the GPs...but the fact your truck still has starting issues after its warmed up means it is likely more than just a GPR issue. Still worth checking the Relay though.

If you have time to wait for a mail order then a popular replacement Relay is a Stancor or White-Rogers, which are twice the size of the stock GPR and reputed to function for many years longer than its smaller cousin for less money.

Here is the way to test the Relay:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f47/hard-no-start-check-here-first-75094/

This link offers more instructions on how to test your Relay and also provides order information for the larger replacement:

Welcome to guzzle's White-Rodgers (Stancor) GPR replacement Mod Web Page

Have you tried plugging in the block heater overnight? Does it help with the starting issue?

Let us know your results and good luck.

 

[yan7gin]

Agree with ArticDriver, Motorcraft GP's are the way to go. I installed Bosh GP'S, they lasted 3 month, after i installed dorman, not sure how long they did last but when the cold hit (6 month later) they where shot. now i have Motorcraft and no problem for now and the been on for 6month.

Same for ICP i will suggest OEM only. got through 3 ebay ICP (60$ each) in the same year till i install the OEM

 

[aclasshog]

It was 17° here this morning and I plugged my 01 in for ~30 minutes before starting. It takes maybe 1-2 seconds to start and always has.
25 seconds is way too long and I think ArticDriver is pointing you in the right direction.