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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay Guy's, I found an 84 housing onUS Diesel Parts.Com for around 200.00 bucks. I am now wondering at what all goes into swapping the exhaust housing on my turbo. Is it a special tool job, or does the balance on the shaft work fine on the new housing? Will I need some gaskets to do the replace job? As a byeway, I towed this weekend up in the mountains, and decided to pull my chip just for S&Grins, and found that the stock programmed pulled a little slower, but did not have to watch my egts much. I had to shift down into 3rd lots with the chip anyway due to egts. Need to put in the intercooler!!!! Any help on the housing replacement would be appreciated. It always wow's me how much everyone here is willing to help soooo much. Thanks to all again for this and all the other silly questions. Sorry for my usual long winded post. Colin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I know I ask alot of dumb questions, but no info???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

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If you do a search in the archives Swamp wrote a very good "how to" on changing housings. The first time there is a couple of tough spots... You need a need an 8mm 12 point socket and combination wrench for getting the housing and EBPV off, 1/4" drive 10mm socket and universal joint for the back turbo pedestal bolts, a short 15mm combo wrench to get the bottom turbo / exhaust nuts off.

While you are in there you should replace the O rings, they are only a couple of bucks so you might as well. I ran into a problem when I replaced the exhaust gaskets on the up pipes, when I tightened the exhaust the angles weren't exactly square to the turbo flange... it leaked, so I had little boost and high EGTs. I had to back off all the turbo flange and exhaust up pipe bolts and retighten one step at a time to pull it into align. That maybe didn't make sense, but when you get it apart you will see what I mean.

Good luck, I am sure you can do it, it took me most of a saturday the first time. BP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
NYTPSD, Thankyou for the hints and info. I will look for SWAMP's instructions, and go from there. After my post, I felt stupid asking the balance question. That is what happens with the wierd sleep and a new PUPPY! She is 7 weeks old and already loves diesel. She hangs out with me under the truck next to the drivers wheel. GOOD DOGGY!!!!!! Thanks again. Colin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
 

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Like fastg60 said, check out GTS....

The housing actually drops EGT's, raises boost, and makes a nice whistle! Set apart a full day in case you run into problems. Get new pedestal o-rings, and take off the EBPV housing once you get the turbo off the truck, it is much easier that way. The 0.84 housing was the best mod I had, until I got my 2's. Now I have to take it off because it overspools way too fast, 30psi is no problem in town, lol.

Good luck, and keep us posted,

Dave
 

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Not trying to hiJack this thread but would like to know how the .84 housing affects towing and EGT's

Thanks, scott /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again for all the help and knowledge. You guys are the best, and thanks to everyone for not laughing at my questions. At least not printing it anyways. LOL!! Colin. Keep up the info guys. It all helps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
 

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Definately look into GTS Motorsports, only $134 for the housing. He also has a very good and detailed install procedure.
Jared
 

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I don't have anything scientific, i added my I/C at the same time I did the housing change. But with stock injectors it definitely made a lot more mid range torque, the boost comes up a lot quicker ( with 3.55s this was real important to me ). Prior to this I could get to 1350 - 1400 pulling hills, with the I/C and .84 it wouldn't get over 1150. Part of this is the I/C, part of it i beleive is the more air from the turbo.

With the stock housing in the hills it would start losing boost, EGT rise, RPM drops... and pretty soon you are shifting gears. With the smaller housing I could get almost max boost by 2500 rpm so it pulled harder in the midrange.

Now I have BDP 1s and am going to try towing with the .84 housing... it may be too much of a restriction and raise EGTs, I think the 1.0 housing is what I need, but I will start with this.

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again guys. All good info. I will look at GTS and see what they have in compairason. Thanks for all the great info. Does anyone out there have any egt and boost numbers that did the housing without intercooler?? Just curious as always. The more you know, the less you struggle! Colin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay, printed off the instructions from GTS. I will buy from them, thanks alot for saving me 100.00. I only have one more question. When you remove the exhaust housing, does the turbine stay with the compressor side, I mean, do you just slip the exhaust housing off, or do you have to loosen the turbine on the shaft??? Thanks fro everything. You guys ROCK!!! Colin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

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You might as well count on pulling the turbo, the exhaust housing will come off, but the studs make you have to pry on the exhaust flange real hard, so I just pull the turbo. You may check into the turbo pedistal mod, it will be worth it. Maybe send a pm to rick96f250 and ask him if he has a modded one for sale. Also like NYTPSD said, if you ever plan on getting some bigger injectors get the 1.0 housing instead of the .84, you will save yourself some trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sniper, I will pull the trubo, but just wasn't sure what happens when you try to remove the housing from the compressor stage. Was not sure if the turbine slipped through the hole or what. Thanks for the info, and I will not be putting in different injector in the future, as with Wildmans chip, and the housing, then the I/C, it will have all the power I could want, heck even stock programming with the intake and exhaust mods, is all the power needed to pull my trailer and boat with the A/C on full time!!! It is just nice to have the extra fun power!! Thanks to all who have responded. Colin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
 

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On my 2001, I removed the .84 and installed the 1.0 turbine housing. I much preferred the 1.0 over the .84 housing. If you plan on using superduty size injectors and no chip, go with the .84, if you are going to use a chip also, go with the 1.0. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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GTS has been very tough to catch latly. Ya may want to call Dale @ Tymar. He also sells them for about 130. And is alot easier to get ahold of.
 

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Just four bolts hold the exhaust housing to the center section, an 8mm or 5/16" 12-point wrench to remove them, same as the ebpv. The housing will come right off, the fan stays with the center section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks guys, I have talked with Dale before and really like him. I will do that and see what he says on Monday or Tues when off night shift blues. I will also see what he thinks, ie, a .84 for stock 97 injectors, or the 1.0. I would think at my altitude a .84 housing might help compress our excuse for air. LOL. Thanks again. Does anyone have egt and boost number w/o a CAC? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Colin
 

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does anyone know what size of housing the turbo comes stock with?
 
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