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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys bought my first diesel! It's a 1988 F 250 4x4 7.3 with a C6 tranny and a 10 foot flatbed. Just wanted to hear anything you guys have had issues with on these trucks like the C6 auto trans. I've also got an aftermarket banks turbo kit on it. Thanks for any help on things i should do to keep this truck running for 500,000 miles. It's only got 79,000 on it now was owned by an older couple. Thanks guys
 

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Welcome to the Diesel Stop

Congrats on your purchase. the C6 is one bullet proof solid transmission. Only problem is it's only a three speed and if you have 4:10 gears in the back, your gonna scream going down the highway. If you like the idea of not having to shift, then you might want to look into an overdrive unit like gearvendors. Not cheap but if you do enough driving it might pay for itself.
It's only got 79,000 on it now was owned by an older couple
When I bought mine in feb 2008 it only had 53,000 on the clock. Nice to have something that you can finish breaking in...not wearing out!!!

Just keep up the oil changes and the coolant with Supplemental Coolant additives to prevent cavitation. I use "fleet charge" as it has the additives in it already and thin it with distilled water. I change mine once a year (probably overkill) but you can buy test strips to see if your coolant still has enough SCA's in it. As for the oil: use any DIESEL RATED oil, I use Delo 400 15W-40 and also you might want to consider using the PSD oil filter (FL1995) as it adds an extra qt to the system (longer filter).
 

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Congrats on your purchase and welcome to TDS. Lots of helpful folks here, and plenty of useful advice to be found.

Your truck sounds pretty sweet, 79K is barely broken in. There are folks on this forum with 400K+. Keep up with the maintenance, especially coolant changes. Use of Fleetguard DCA4 SCA (supplemental coolant additive) and periodic testing of same is critical to prevent cavitation, which causes pinholes through the cylinder walls from the water jacket.

The C6 is pretty much bulletproof, but not very efficient. Folks with E4OD (auto w/overdrive) and ZF5 (manual) get better mileage, all other factors being equal. The C6 also doesn't have very steep 1st or reverse gears. If you plan to pull heavy loads, I hope you have a 4:10 or numerically higher rear end. I swapped a 3:55 into mine and don't regret it, but I only tow about 5K, and wouldn't want to pull too much more.

If your tranny fluid looks or smells original, change it and the filter screen below the valve body inside the pan. Be prepared to take a bath in ATF :lol: Drain the torque converter too, there's a drain plug in the face accessible through a hole in the flywheel. Also use a blow gun to clean out the cooler and lines. The whole system takes 12 quarts to fill. Add 4 quarts, start and run it a minute, stop and add a couple more, repeat. Avoid overfilling. It will take a while to refill the system. Don't attempt to put it in gear until you've got all 12 quarts in and the level is in the crosshatch on the stick while the truck is idling.

One other common problem is the in-tank fuel pickups, they tend to break when they age. The truck will run out of fuel with about 1/4 tank on the gauge. Keep a jerry can full of fuel (or 1 tank full at all times), a small coffee can, a rag or two, and a 5/8" wrench handy until you know if you have this problem.

If/when you run out of fuel, switch to the full tank or add 5 gallons. Then crank the engine while holding the schrader valve on top of the fuel filter open. Hold the coffee can under the valve to catch the fuel. You'll get lots of air at first, but the filter should fill within two crank cycles. Speaking of which, to avoid starter damage, crank no more than 30 seconds at a time with a 2 minute rest period between cycles.

If the engine doesn't start once you get clear fuel at the schrader, use the 5/8" wrench to crack the line fittings on a couple of injectors, then crank another cycle. This gives air in the IP an easy point to escape. Once the engine starts, close the fittings with it idling and mop up any spillage. There won't be much, there's very little fuel flow at idle. Once you've got it running again, Google "hutch mod" for the in-tank pickup fix.

One last thing, put your truck's specs in your signature. It helps out other members a lot when they're offering help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey thanks guys sounds good i wish she was stick but im gonna deal with the C6 as long as she will last. Gonna tear into her soon and get all new fluids filters etc. You guys know your stuff I'll poke around some more and see what I can learn. Thanks for all the help you guys! P.S. Signature is a work in progress :)
 

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well heres what i got to say
do not use fleetgaurd ran it for 6 months went through 3 tstats and the coolant system is still gunked up
use standard green with additives put in
also the c6 will last forever but you got a good deal 79k is where it should be changed out but for my c6 i use type f fluid itll give ya a firmer shift but have a gallon to spare its hard to find
also i run a purple reg valve the purple firms them up too so my truck shifts hard but when under load towing its smooth as can be and quick too
the oil i run 50/50 lucas and valvoline 15/40 and with 500k on the motor its pristine inside and the lucas quieted it up a bit
also you must use a fuel additive must at all times
the new ulsd is junk for lubrication and youre ip will wear really fast you can use lucas dieselkeeel or even a qt of atf per tank
 

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As a guy said on a ammo reloading site once, everyone's entitled to an opinion but it ought to be based on knowledge and experience. Fleetguard is a top of the line product owned by Cummins Diesel. It's the standard of the industry in heavy trucks and heavy equipment. All the "big boys" carry it in their parts dept, IH, Peterbilt, Kenworth, Mack, etc, dealerships. With over 30 years in the industry I've never seen it "gunk" anything up, not to mention there's no way it could effect a thermostat. Besides dealing with it over the years in truck shops, I've had the same Fleetguard in my '91 F-250 for 12+ years, crystal clear and somehow I'm still on my original thermostat.
the new ulsd is junk for lubrication and youre ip will wear really fast
Dieselfuelburner, the refineries have been adding a lubricity formula from way back in about '93 when they first started reducing sulphur in fuel. If in doubt, talk to your local fuel distributor for the real story. I've got at least 180,000 on my IP since a pump overhaul and use no additives. Not to say there's anything wrong with using one if you want.
 
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