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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took off down the road yesterday truck running great. then all of a sudden it started running very rough like it was only firing on half the cylinders. I ran a trouble code test with a primative flashing light scanner and got a 926 code in KOEO mode I cant find any refernce to 926 on the internet. I suspect it is my IPR because the rough runnig condition did not change when I disconected the ICP sensor. Does anyone have a list of codes for this year truck or has anyone had a simular failure? Having this 94 1/2 truck makes it hard to diagnose because it uses the old EEC-IV
 

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Sounds like the IDM went into limp mode.
Either you have some burnt connector pins under the valve cover(s) or there is water inside the IDM.
Easy first step, remover oil filler cap and smell. Does it smell like electrical burn?
Other steps
* Remove IDM and shake while holding next to your ear, hear water sloshing?
* Un plug one side of the under valve cover harness, making any difference? Try the other.
* Got another 7.3 Powerstroke handy? Could try the IDM off that one, there may be an outside chance that it could be damaged but never actually heard of this happening.
Rick H...
 

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Did this happen just after a cold start? If so, I would recommend checking your oil level. Seriously. A friend of mine borrowed my truck to make a quick run across the country. Came back saying that it would run poorly after startup in the morning. Turns out, the oil dipstick was totally dry.

Lou
 

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Possible but not normally so low that they will run like described, low on power yes, quit and no start yes, but when you drop a bank its like wow, the whole truck shacks and will hardly pull it self from dead stop.
Rick H...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's possible i burned out the IDM i did find the single wire that goes from the 3 wire plug on the altenator to the terminal about 2 inches away on the altenator was shorting out on the body of the altenator. I am not sure exactly what that single wire does if you have any idea please let me know. also I did a pressure test of the high pressure oil and it was about 1200 at idle on both heads. and I did disconect the injector control wires one by one and there was no change in engine sound when i disconected the left bank but the engine stoped running when i disconected either of the right bank conectors which means the left bank is dead. there is no burned smell from the crankcase and i will check the IDM for water tomarrow all fuses under the hood are good. any help would be appreaciated. Rick G.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
there was no change in engine sound when i disconected the left bank

[/ QUOTE ]That's the bad one.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well Rick H. you were right even though I couldnt smell any electrical burn on the oil fill cap when i took off the left bank valve cover both connectors were fried. I am getting the parts to fix it now. I just hope it didnt fry the IDM. I am hoping when a connector is fried the IDM shuts down the entire bank.
Rick G.
 

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I like it when that happens!!!!
Glad your on your way.
Rick H...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Final post; what a relief after replacing the under valve cover wiring harneses (2 were burned up at connection to valve cover gasket) and new valve cover gaskets (burned at electrical connectors)and and one main wire harness conector that conects to valve cover gasket (burned glow plug pin) and 8 new glow plugs it runs great. My concerns that the IDM was fried were unwarrented. I do think the IDM shut the whole bank down when the glow plug pin in harness burned through to injector pin causing it to short out to ground. it is to much of a coincidence that both harneses under that bank would compleatly fail at the same instant. Probelly a good idea to replace the glow plugs every 100,000 miles or so I think they draw a lot more current when they get old mine had 139,000 miles on them (originals), it is a lot cheaper than burning up the wiring harneses. I have also ordered a glow plug deactivation kit Int. part#1831142C91 it deactivates the glow plugs from coming on if coolant temp is over 115 degrees it should make the glow plugs last longer.
Rick G.
 

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Rick,

I've never heard of the glow-plug deactivation kit available through International, could you post some pics and the price? Also, if you aren't aware, Auto-Zone carries OEM Ford Motorcraft glow-plugs and they're probably cheaper than most local places you'll find them. Just always remember to use OEM Beru glow-plugs and NOT Autolites.

Hope it helps,
K.N.
 
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