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I have a 1994 E-350 with the 7.3 idi engine and an E40D transmission. I just finished replacing the head gaskets along with many other things. The transmission worked fine before the head gasket job but now it's not working.

When you put it in Drive it feels like it's either in 3rd or majorly slipping. When you put it in 1 if feels the same way. When you put it in 2 it feels like it's in 2nd. Reverse feels normal. When you start out in 2nd and shift it to D after building some speed it will shift into 3rd but not overdrive. Could this be an electronic issue that's keeping the transmission from going into first gear?

Before the repairs the overdrive off button worked but now it does not light up at all. (I can't remember if it actually lit up before but it absolutely dropped from OD to D when the button was pushed)

The wiring is a nightmare on this thing. I've cleaned up a tremendous amount of it under the hood. There is a problem at the solenoid that's mounted on the drivers side of the radiator support just in front of the battery. Does anyone know what this controls? The previous owner had it powered directly by a cable running to the positive lead of the battery. The solenoid does not work and the red/blue wire that is supposed to activate it does not receive any power. Do any of the wires connected to that solenoid go to the transmission?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I've put over 60 hours into this thing on everything from the head gaskets to the ball joints to brakes, both A/C systems, etc, etc. The transmission was the one thing that worked like it should before the repairs and now it doesnt work.

HELP!!
 

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Did you remove or move the FIPL on the side of the IP. Check my photo link for the trans codes that may be set in memory. you can pull codes with an OBD1 reader or as per the instructions below.

E40D code removal

Hard faults go away when you fix them. The memory codes ( "soft faults' ) can be erased by disconnecting the battery, using a scan tool and "clearing memory codes", or they will go away on there own after a certain number ( 40 or 80 depend on the model year ) of drive cycles, assuming that the intermittent running problem does not reoccur.

Summary of codes types.
Hard faults - problem present at the time the Key On Engine Off
( KOEO ) SelfTest is run.
Continuous Memory codes - occured while the vehicle was operating and may stll be there. If it is still there you may have the same code in both areas.
Engine Running Codes ( Key On Engine Running, KOER ) occur during the KOER Self Test. They will disappear when fixed.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
On the net info........


Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I removed the pump but I did not remove the FIPL. Would it keep the transmission from going into 1st and cause it to go into 3rd instead, even when sitting still? Or, if it's actually in first and drastically slipping would it cause that?
 

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I think you're not getting power to the trans computer. That is what happens with an E4OD when the electronics are not powered.
 

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Is this a former ambulance............
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is this a former ambulance............
It's not an ambulance, it has a 27 passenger bus conversion done to it. I think Mark is right about the power to the trans computer. Or the computer is toast. This thing has some major electrical problems.

I was able to round up some wiring diagrams so I'll start going through the wiring today.
 

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I have been working through some transmission problems. Everything seems to be working correctly now. I think if you review all the threads relating to the E40D in the forum you'll find that looking in the most expensive and complicated areas is not the best way to approach the issue. I would suspect you jostled a sensor or the wiring leading to the sensors. Most on the forum know more about the technical issues, but you should really read all the threads first. I was a little overwhelmed at first by the "FIPL" and some of the tests suggested on the forum, so if you want some clarity on the issues, ask me or anyone to clarify. I am still wary of diving into the wiring on the tranny. Change or check the OD button. Mine was broken and would have given me a lot of info prior to the tranny going into "limp home" mode. That is what yours sounds like it is in.
Like you, I am not the original owner. At least you know the tranny was performing satisfactorily prior to your latest project. It would seem to make sense that the problem is a result of something that you did while digging around in the engine area. Several folks have mentioned looking at the plugs going into the sensors (FiPL, the tranny plug on the passenger side of the E40D and the gear selector sensor on the driver side of the E40D). I need to replace these plugs eventually, but can tell you first hand that my problems were corrected by cleaning the connections. That is after buying all new sensors and resetting them all.
Good luck
 

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I have been working through some transmission problems. Everything seems to be working correctly now. I think if you review all the threads relating to the E40D in the forum you'll find that looking in the most expensive and complicated areas is not the best way to approach the issue. I would suspect you jostled a sensor or the wiring leading to the sensors. Most on the forum know more about the technical issues, but you should really read all the threads first. I was a little overwhelmed at first by the "FIPL" and some of the tests suggested on the forum, so if you want some clarity on the issues, ask me or anyone to clarify. I am still wary of diving into the wiring on the tranny. Change or check the OD button. Mine was broken and would have given me a lot of info prior to the tranny going into "limp home" mode. That is what yours sounds like it is in. Like you, I am not the original owner. At least you know the tranny was performing satisfactorily prior to your latest project. It would seem to make sense that the problem is a result of something that you did while digging around in the engine area. Several folks have mentioned looking at the plugs going into the sensors (FiPL, the tranny plug on the passenger side of the E40D and the gear selector sensor on the driver side of the E40D). I need to replace these plugs eventually, but can tell you first hand that my problems were corrected by cleaning the connections. That is after buying all new sensors and resetting them all. Good luck
I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Diesel 7.3 converted Road Rescue ambulance has trans pump/air to oil coolers lines plugged or my lower radiator trans cooler partially plugged resulting in high trans temp and a shudder in 1st gear, thank You
 

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I’m going through some of the same problems on mine. I really think it’s electrical control are wireing outside the transmission. The hardest part is trying to find correct wireing diagrams. The solonoid your talking about is for the starter. Mine gave me problems too. It is switched through a range selector switch . It is mounted on the trans. It mechanically senses the shifter. It also sends power to the pcm. I’m in the middle of repairing one now. Thought it would be easy. I’m a Electrican by trade. I have a 93 ford e350 7.3 idi. It’s the simple engine. Mechanical injection. I can’t find the right diagram with the correct wireing codes. The selector has 8 pins. Two are not used. The other sensor is a rpm senser. It will cause eradic operation. Mounted on the rear differential. It’s cheap to change. Keep me posted. I have some good wireing diagrams.
 

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'02 7.3L Excursion 3.73 Warn Hubs AutoTranny
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look on eBay for Factory Wiring Schematics...

I scored a hit with a Factory OEM 'NOS' still wrapped in cellophane.



World Font Publication Advertising Electric blue
 

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'02 7.3L Excursion 3.73 Warn Hubs AutoTranny
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this link is for Manuals,
no hits for "wiring diagrams"

 

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There’s a lot of difference between the 95 and 2002. 2002 uses a different transmission probably different senser , controller too. The next step up is a good transmission and can replace the E40d but you have to do your home work. I figured out all the info. And pin layouts on the mechanical senser mounted on the trans. Im assuming this senser show location on the pcm. The throttle senser or tps. Shows rpm position or when to shift. You will get about 1 to 4 vdc signal coming off the tps going to the pcm depending on where it is. Just a quick check to see if your in the ball park. I know your having problems with the mechanical sensor. The start solonoid was jumped out. I had the same problem. Could be bad worn out connecter. Going to be a 8 pin connector. The 95 is only using 6 wires. There is a signal out wire and signal return wire which sends a location signal to the pcm. The other wires are for the starter , back up lights and neutral switch. I have all the wire colors for different yrs. This is just an intro. I’m learning this stuff too. Glad I’m on vacation. I have 3 ford trucks. 94 e350 7.3 diesel. 2000 f150 5.4 triton. 2009 f350. Everything running good except the e350. Have to get it reliable. Have too much money tied up in it. I’m in the electrical and air conditioning business Ford part. Mlps sensor. E5tz-7A247-A. Kit includes the harness connecter. Wish I had ordered this kit from the start. Without harnesses you get into the next level making pins! I actually enjoy all of this learning just wish I was retired.
 

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I have been working through some transmission problems. Everything seems to be working correctly now. I think if you review all the threads relating to the E40D in the forum you'll find that looking in the most expensive and complicated areas is not the best way to approach the issue. I would suspect you jostled a sensor or the wiring leading to the sensors. Most on the forum know more about the technical issues, but you should really read all the threads first. I was a little overwhelmed at first by the "FIPL" and some of the tests suggested on the forum, so if you want some clarity on the issues, ask me or anyone to clarify. I am still wary of diving into the wiring on the tranny. Change or check the OD button. Mine was broken and would have given me a lot of info prior to the tranny going into "limp home" mode. That is what yours sounds like it is in.
Like you, I am not the original owner. At least you know the tranny was performing satisfactorily prior to your latest project. It would seem to make sense that the problem is a result of something that you did while digging around in the engine area. Several folks have mentioned looking at the plugs going into the sensors (FiPL, the tranny plug on the passenger side of the E40D and the gear selector sensor on the driver side of the E40D). I need to replace these plugs eventually, but can tell you first hand that my problems were corrected by cleaning the connections. That is after buying all new sensors and resetting them all.
Good luck
 

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Found my problem. The pcm module was not getting power through relay. The 30 amp fuse connection below it had slipped down. It happened when I pulled it out to check it than pushed it back in. I will have to pull the fuse cover to fix it. Not much room.
 

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That’s what my problem was. When no power through pcm relay to pcm here are the symptoms. No light on over drive switch. Trans stays in overdrive and will not shift in auto. Transmission will only work in manual. Takes a lot of engine power to move my e350 in overdrive!
 

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The hardest part is trying to find correct wireing diagrams. The solonoid your talking about is for the starter. Mine gave me problems too. It is switched through a range selector switch . It is mounted on the trans.
I have a 1994 E-350 with the 7.3 idi engine and an E40D transmission. I just finished replacing the head gaskets along with many other things. The transmission worked fine before the head gasket job but now it's not working.
vps anonymous servers
When you put it in Drive it feels like it's either in 3rd or majorly slipping. When you put it in 1 if feels the same way. When you put it in 2 it feels like it's in 2nd. Reverse feels normal. When you start out in 2nd and shift it to D after building some speed it will shift into 3rd but not overdrive. Could this be an electronic issue that's keeping the transmission from going into first gear?

Before the repairs the overdrive off button worked but now it does not light up at all. (I can't remember if it actually lit up before but it absolutely dropped from OD to D when the button was pushed)

The wiring is a nightmare on this thing. I've cleaned up a tremendous amount of it under the hood. There is a problem at the solenoid that's mounted on the drivers side of the radiator support just in front of the battery. Does anyone know what this controls? The previous owner had it powered directly by a cable running to the positive lead of the battery. The solenoid does not work and the red/blue wire that is supposed to activate it does not receive any power. Do any of the wires connected to that solenoid go to the transmission?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I've put over 60 hours into this thing on everything from the head gaskets to the ball joints to brakes, both A/C systems, etc, etc. The transmission was the one thing that worked like it should before the repairs and now it doesnt work.

HELP!!
 
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