I got a friend that has a 94 psd and it'll start cold but not warm. He change the cps. Battery's are good and starter spins the engine quick. If/when it starts the cel is on. Read the codes and one was the KAM error and he says the other was IPR related. Any ideas where to look next?? thanks
94 psd wont start warm.
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It sounds as if he needs to replace the "O" rings to the IPR. When the oil is warm and thin it is leaking past the rings, thus not building enough pressure to start.
[ QUOTE ]
It sounds as if he needs to replace the "O" rings to the IPR. When the oil is warm and thin it is leaking past the rings, thus not building enough pressure to start.
[/ QUOTE ]
I've heard talk about this causing the trouble. Can you give me a bit more detail about where/how to change the oring/s? Is it a tough job and what is entailed. He is bringing it over tonight so we can check it out, just curious if its a quick fix.
It sounds as if he needs to replace the "O" rings to the IPR. When the oil is warm and thin it is leaking past the rings, thus not building enough pressure to start.
[/ QUOTE ]
I've heard talk about this causing the trouble. Can you give me a bit more detail about where/how to change the oring/s? Is it a tough job and what is entailed. He is bringing it over tonight so we can check it out, just curious if its a quick fix.
Injection Pressure Regulator Removal and Replacement
by Coach Davis
I've been having a slight problem with my truck not wanting to idle very smooth especially when hot and the more miles the oil gets on it, the worse it would idle. With the engine cold it would idle pretty smooth, but hot, it had somewhat of a shake to it. When I purchased this truck, the oil had been in a little too long on this ONE and only ONE oil change and because the HEUI system is so sensitive to clean oil that I probably was going to have to change some of the components to remedy the idle/flutter problem.
I purchased a new IPR a few months ago and was trying to get enough miles on the oil before I changed it so I could ensure some of the characteristics that changed were not because of "NEW" oil. New oil will always make a Powerstroke run a little better than oil that has 3000 miles on it. I wanted to make sure I installed the IPR with the 3000 mile oil.
The Procedure:
I removed the plug on the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and took my tried and true turkey baister (equipped with a rubber fuel line and then steel brake line attached to the rubber fuel line so I could get through the small hole and go to the bottom of the reservoir to extract ALL the oil), and proceeded to extract all the oil out of the reservoir which took some time, but ended up getting a full quart out of it. Draining this HP reservoir really saved a big time mess!!
Next I drained my fuel filter bowl and loosened the lid to ensure all the diesel would be able to drain, then removed my intake "Y", stuffed shop rags in the ports and proceeded to loosen all the hoses and wiring harness associated with the fuel filter housing/IPR. I then removed the two bolts holding the fuel filter housing on the engine and lifted the housing up and out of the valley of the engine.
I then removed the cheap nut holding the IPR solenoid on and slid the solenoid off. I then took a deep socket and slowly removed the IPR.
I then cleaned around where the IPR was with a lint free cloth to ensure the new o-ring wouldn't be damaged by dirt/trash upon seating. I then coated the NEW IPR o-rings etc. with new engine oil and replaced it back into its respected provision. I then reinstalled the IPR solenoid and tightened the cheap nut ensuring I had the wiring harness connector turned in the correct direction.
I then took carburetor cleaner and sprayed the valley where a little diesel and a small amount of oil had spilled. I cleaned the entire valley and then reinstalled everything previously removed.
I then took a small funnel and poured exactly 1 quart of new oil back into the HP oil reservoir and re-installed the plug.
After the engine turned over a few more times than usual it cranked. After warming the engine up, I then proceeded to the highway where I ran locked out of OD for about 5 miles at 3200 rpm's to eliminate all the air from the HP oil system.
that is from Steve Baz's website <font color="blue"> Here </font>
I hope this is helpful. duece
by Coach Davis
I've been having a slight problem with my truck not wanting to idle very smooth especially when hot and the more miles the oil gets on it, the worse it would idle. With the engine cold it would idle pretty smooth, but hot, it had somewhat of a shake to it. When I purchased this truck, the oil had been in a little too long on this ONE and only ONE oil change and because the HEUI system is so sensitive to clean oil that I probably was going to have to change some of the components to remedy the idle/flutter problem.
I purchased a new IPR a few months ago and was trying to get enough miles on the oil before I changed it so I could ensure some of the characteristics that changed were not because of "NEW" oil. New oil will always make a Powerstroke run a little better than oil that has 3000 miles on it. I wanted to make sure I installed the IPR with the 3000 mile oil.
The Procedure:
I removed the plug on the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and took my tried and true turkey baister (equipped with a rubber fuel line and then steel brake line attached to the rubber fuel line so I could get through the small hole and go to the bottom of the reservoir to extract ALL the oil), and proceeded to extract all the oil out of the reservoir which took some time, but ended up getting a full quart out of it. Draining this HP reservoir really saved a big time mess!!
Next I drained my fuel filter bowl and loosened the lid to ensure all the diesel would be able to drain, then removed my intake "Y", stuffed shop rags in the ports and proceeded to loosen all the hoses and wiring harness associated with the fuel filter housing/IPR. I then removed the two bolts holding the fuel filter housing on the engine and lifted the housing up and out of the valley of the engine.
I then removed the cheap nut holding the IPR solenoid on and slid the solenoid off. I then took a deep socket and slowly removed the IPR.
I then cleaned around where the IPR was with a lint free cloth to ensure the new o-ring wouldn't be damaged by dirt/trash upon seating. I then coated the NEW IPR o-rings etc. with new engine oil and replaced it back into its respected provision. I then reinstalled the IPR solenoid and tightened the cheap nut ensuring I had the wiring harness connector turned in the correct direction.
I then took carburetor cleaner and sprayed the valley where a little diesel and a small amount of oil had spilled. I cleaned the entire valley and then reinstalled everything previously removed.
I then took a small funnel and poured exactly 1 quart of new oil back into the HP oil reservoir and re-installed the plug.
After the engine turned over a few more times than usual it cranked. After warming the engine up, I then proceeded to the highway where I ran locked out of OD for about 5 miles at 3200 rpm's to eliminate all the air from the HP oil system.
that is from Steve Baz's website <font color="blue"> Here </font>
I hope this is helpful. duece
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494 Posts
94PSD,
Looks like gcduece got it covered for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Looks like gcduece got it covered for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
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1,380 Posts
"94, here is a thread that provides a link to a complete detail of replacing the o-rings and cleaning the ipr. Ignore the part about having to "build a wrench" boxed end wrench or a deep well 1 1/8" can handle the removal and replace. Good luck with it.....
IPR thread...
IPR thread...
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