[KinkadeIN]

Ok, here's the specifics...

1995 F-250, 250,000+, no real mods, lots of little problems like an oil leak at the turbo and a short in the electrical system but other than that the truck was fine.

I know there's a problem with the glow plug system because even when I jump the relay the plugs still don't want to fire up. I have to keep the truck plugged in which, again, is really no big deal to me.

So here's what happened... I fired the truck up this morning and let it idle for about 10 minutes before I headed off to work. I got about 3 miles from my house and the truck died. It slowly sputtered to a stop. When I pumped the gas pedal I could definitely tell there was a change in the way the truck sounded which leads me to believe it isn't a fuel problem. However, when I shut the truck off to re-start it, as I was cranking it I could hear a definite clicking noise in teh engine compartment which leads me to believe I'm getting electric to the injectors.

No Check Engine lights came on. No warnings of any kind. It just died. I have had to replace the CPS before and these symptoms don't indicate a CPS problem but I could definitely be wrong about that one.

Also, I plow snow with this truck and it's snowing like mad right now. I gotta get this truck running in a hurry!!!! I'll probably be outside fiddling with this thing so if you have any ideas or troubleshooting thoughts please feel free to call me cell @ 219-808-9328.

 

[blackout]

Fuel gelling up? How cold is it?

 

[KinkadeIN]

I really doubt it. I didn't check though. It's only about 25 degrees and I've run this truck in much colder weather without gelling up.

 

[tbpower]

Have you checked to make sure your batteries are more than 10.5 VDC while cranking? Maybe your alternator is on it's way out. Also, make sure to check your oil level. How long since last oil change.

 

[KinkadeIN]

I don't think it's the batt or alt since the truck started and ran fine until it died. Plus, I'll crank it over right now and it sounds like a normal crank, not a slow crank.

As far as the fluids go, I checked the oil and it's actually just a little high since I blindly added a quart yesterday before I fired it up then. I'd say it's only about a quart high. I had the oil changed over the summer but I've only put about 500 miles on it since then. I only use it to plow now since I bought a new truck to ahul the kids around.

I also checked for fuel in the fuel filter bowl and it looks good. There was slight pressure still built up at the schrader valve also. There's no fuel in the valley so I don't think it's a fuel issue now. The oil doesn't smell like fuel. There's nothing coming out of the exhaust to see or smell really.

I cranked it again to listen for that clicking noise and it's relatively loud and distinct. I'd like to say it's the injectors clicking but I don't know for certain.

The thing that gets me the most is there's no check engine light coming on. Maybe the light is burnt out?? I've always had trouble codes coming from the door chime. At least for the past several years.

I know I said this probably isn't the case but could it still be the CPS?? Ihaven't had to prelace it in at least 5 years, maybe more. I would think the CPS being bad wouldn't make the injectors sound like they were firing, right??

 

[tbpower]

Are you getting the wait to start light. If not your fuel bowl heater may be shorted out. Check your fuse. Are you getting smoke while cranking. This is a sign the injectors are firing.

 

[KinkadeIN]

No smoke while cranking. The engine was plenty warm to both fire up and drive for the better part of 15 minutes so I wouldn't think the bowl element would be the culprit, espcially since the bowl gets plenty warm from the running engine. UNLESS, that circuit plays a part in the actual fule delivery or injector firing. Does it??

 

[blageurt]

Check the fuse for the PCM it is 30Amp it is the same one for the fuel heater as tbpower suggested . When it blows the truck will not start . . .

 

[Believer45]

If the fuse for the fuel heater is blown disconnect the fuel heater (on the side of the fuel filter housing), replace the fuse and try again. For some reason the engineers decided to have the same circuit (and the same fuse) supply both the fuel heater and the engine computer.

 

[cumminsfreek]

im new w/ fords and have a good background with electronic fuel injection in gassers. first and for most, Get a Haynes manual.Second get a multimeter and learn how to use it. im 18 and with those two things and an ajustible wrench can diagnos just about any problem in a diesel system. in the manual it will give you specs on your injectors. im assuming this is an electronically controled injector. test the ohms across the injector to see if their in specs. next use the manual and test the juice to your injectors. if you dont have any odd smells, you may not be getting fuels. ill research that year and give you more suggestions

 

[KinkadeIN]

Do you know which is the PCM fuse? I don't have the book anymore. Isn't it under the hood??

 

[blageurt]

Yes it is under the hood below the Drivers side battery . It is the second or third one up from the bottom . It is a Green 30 Amp one . I know mine from memory , otherwise I could tell you the number. I'm sure someone else will tell you shortly . . .

 

[Jmikan]

I have had my truck do this and everytime it has been dirty oil. It will run a few mile and then shut down. Once it starts again would run fine for the rest of the day.

 

[tbpower]

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/no-wait-start-light-217520/

 

[KinkadeIN]

I haven't had a wait to start light ever since some knucklehead installed my remote start so I can't tell you if it's coming on or not. I'll check that fuse as soon as I get home. I had to rent a Bobcat to start plowing so I'm out doing that now.

 

[KinkadeIN]

All the maxi fuses under the hood are fine. Still scratching my head on this one. I'm ready to get rid of this POS in a hurry!!!!!

 

[blageurt]

Is the wire to the IPR connected and is the nut on the IPR tight ?. Also you could have a bad connection at the starter relay or a fried starter relay causing a voltage drop to the computer as well . If the computer does not get 9 plus volts it will never start . To check all that stuff you might have to remove the battery , I do on my Van . My nieghbor had the same issue and it was because of corroded terminals and a baked starter relay. I replaced the Positive terminal and the relay , cleaned up the terminals that went to the GP relay etc. and it started right up .

 

[KinkadeIN]

See, I don't think it has anything to do with a lack of voltage. The truck was running and started perfectly and the volt meter was in the normal range the whole time. Exact voltage I'm not sure of but if it were, in fact, a voltage issue than the truck would never have started in the first place.

As the truck was winding down to die out I was still getting "SOME" power from the engine. Maybe about 5% power and still slowly died. It really felt like I ran it out of fuel but I know I didn't.

I'll pay someone to come out here to fix it or at least diagnose the problem. I just really in a bind and need this truck going now. Running or not it's officially for sale... Plow and all!

 

[MilitiaAir]

The remote start thing installed wrong is probally why the plugs arnt working and you have to plug in. Its probally a fueling problem tho. No smoke means no fuel. You need to check your codes. Of course it could always be a undervalve cover harness... Has it started at all since? If you can test the fuel pressure to see if your getting pressure that would eliminate the fuel pump. If its not that I would look into UVC harnesses... Hpop gone out or injector driver are the only other reasons I can think of? I dont think it would be the injector driver with the way it quit... Points more to running out of fuel or high pressure oil.

 

[KinkadeIN]

The remote start was installed years ago and worked just fine until about 1 year ago. I can't really see how that could be the problem.