The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have had this truck in the shop several times. Have replaced the HPOP, wiring, fuel pump, filter, fuel tank sensor... Added Heat to the fuel... When it is driven, it will run great then die... it will start back up and run fine e then die... It died and started about 15 times in a mile or so....

Another shop said to change out the crank sensor, change the oil and put an additive in it for easier starting when it's cold...

I called NAPA 7and they don't show a crank sensor, but they show a cam sensor...

any ideas.... I got 3k into this already... can't afford to put much more in the truck
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,374 Posts
Our trucks don't have a crank sensor. When it fails to start, do you see the tach move while you're cranking it? If not, then the cam sensor is suspect. Buy only Ford/Motorcraft or International.

If by "Heat", you mean some alcohol-base anti-freeze such as HEET, DON'T do that. That stuff is for gasoline. You might need an anti-gel additive, if it's cold where you are but they haven't switched over (or don't switch over) to winter fuel. Or if you haven't fueled it up in a while and are still on winter fuel.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,208 Posts
You also don't need any additive in the oil. If you want you can go to a full synthetic 5w40 for easier starts.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It doesn't... not start.... It dies while driving it.....
I thought I might have water in the fuel causing issues so we put in heat to help break up water
I live in Las Vegas so don't think we need an anti-gel additive
Would the cam sensor be suspect?
I will try the synthetic oil.... Would a synthetic blend do the same thing?
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,208 Posts
The cam sensor will do all kinds of wierd things as far as running, not running, dying, and hard starts. They are fairly cheap and as madpogue said, only buy one from Ford or International.

Being in Vegas you really wouldn't even need a synthetic unless you want to go with one. A blend will also work as long as it is a diesel rated oil.

Just to let you know I live at 6500' elevation in Colorado where the temperatures will get down to a -30 during a cold snap and I am still running Valvoline Blue 15w40 with no problems and that weight of oil has been in my truck since I bought it in 96
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,374 Posts
Unlike with gasoline, water settles in diesel fuel, and there's a sensor in the fuel bowl that will light the WIF light when it detects water. If you really need to know, drain some fuel from the bowl via the drain into a jar and have a look at it.

CPS is low on the suspect list if the truck starts right back up. But not out of the question.

And +1 on oil additives; to emphasize, they're not only unnecessary, they're a BAD idea, since the injectors run on the hydraulic pressure of the engine oil. A reputable diesel shop should know better than to recommend an oil additive in a HEUI engine ('course, they should know better than to recommend a crank sensor for an engine that doesn't have one, but.....).

Automatic or manual transmission?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was talking to a mechanic and he was saying something about lead ends burning off in the valve covers that fire the injectors? I might have that wrong but it had something electronic and injectors... grounding...??
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,374 Posts
He's referring to the UVCHs, the wiring harnesses that connect to the valve covers. Disconnect and inspect for damage. If any damage externally, remove that valve cover and inspect for internal damage. Also remove the oil fill cap and smell for burned plastic. That would be the insulation on the internal wiring melting.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,208 Posts
I doubt that the wiring is your problem.

Have you replaced the CPS yet?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Have had to let the truck sit for a couple of day...been stupid busy at work.....I looked at the one you recommended but it says it does not fit this yr. I will call them tomorrow and get the correct one ordered....
Thanks for the tip..I was ready to pay $80 at the dealer...

I saw a picture that showed it below the alternator and belt tensioner pully?
It looks like the belt has to come off then maybe I'll be able to get my hands in there to r/r it.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,208 Posts
Get the CPS from the Ford dealer, in 96 there were two of them and while either one will work there is a difference in the contact material that could cause problems down the road. The split came after engines that were manufactured in June. My truck requires the earlier part number and it shipped in June of 96.

Here are the part numbers:
F4TZ-12K073-C below engine 375548
F7TZ-12K073-B above engine 375548

To remove it you need a 6pt 10mm socket. Not a 12pt. The bolt is in there and if it has never been replaced it may feel like it is welded in place. If you have a improper wrench or socket all it will do is round off the head and then you'll be back on here asking how to get it out.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
783 Posts
"Fuel tank sensor"??? I hope they didn't sell you one of those - I've never heard of that part before.

-----

All I could add to what the others have recommended would be to find a new mechanic.

You don't change an HPOP on a whim. There are inexpensive and definitive ways to test such things. Sadly, most "mechanics" want to read a scanner and throw parts at the problem. That gets expensive and frustrating for you.

Have faith...3K is not a lot to have in a good, reliable vehicle ;)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Agreed...a wiring problem would (likely) just cause a miss, not kill the engine.
Agreed and/or shut down the whole bank on one side, all 4 cylinders.

CPS only purchase genuine Ford or international like others have said. I learned the hard way and it cost me a lot of time and money. I was pretty sure that was what was wrong with my truck and I was at Aut**one and purchased one lifetime warranty put in it did not fix my truck. Time went by and I was at O'R***lys getting a hydraulic hose made and decided to buy one from there, I put it in and no change. I kept telling myself that had to be the problem. I had to use my truck and it was running so bad and rough, I looked up the nearest dealership to my location. Purchased new CPS and the cost was about the same as it was at other 2 places. It was right at $28 or something. I'll put it in and heard the angels singing. It ran great. The other auto parts places took the CPS's back which I'm thankful for.

It doesn't hurt to have an extra one of these in your glove compartment of your truck. However I don't believe this is your problem. Of course there is a slight chance but I don't think so.

To me it sounds more the fuel issue. Does it do it on both tanks? They both your tanks needles on your gauge go down to the redline of empty? There's a piece that falls off of our 96 trucks is the fuel tank that could be picking up the small pieces and clogging your fuel line. Or air in your fuel line. There's a small screen in your fuel regulator that gets clogged up on the return side of your fuel back to your tanks that could also be the problem or part of the problem.

Does it idle up or start running rough or anything before it shuts off or does it just all the sudden just shut down? How long after the first time of the day you crank it up before it shuts off?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok..back onto the shutting down problem.....I've been sick and the wife just got out of the hospital. The truck has sat other than being moved around by folks at the shop...hasn't been driven more than a block or 2 in any one time for the last 2 months.

I had a factory trained Ford diesel mechanic (does that mean anything?) look at it, before all this sickness came around. He said the ECM is throwing codes, which tells him that is the issue and it needs to be replaced. The truck has 300K+ on it and to my knowledge, it has never been replaced.

The numbers/letters on the ecm are: F6TF-12A650-AYE

If I have to buy one of these, is there a good one that compares with the Ford part that is less expensive? Ford says 2 weeks out to order one.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top