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Discussion Starter #1
Right out of the clear blue today, with no previous indications, as i was letting off the throttle from running about 55, slowing to make a turn, the engine started stumbling all over itself, pretty bad... but stayed running. It also acted like i mashed the throttle down hard a couple times, as it kinda took off (scared me...). I got into the shopping center i was going for, and stopped. At that point, i didn't see a CE light, all other indications were normal. I drove around in the parking lot and it stumbled again and lurched like i stomped on the gas. Next, it died... it did start right back up. This time the CE light was on. As I drove it, the light went off. Got home and it sat for about 5 hours, i went out to bring it from the street to the driveway to start Checking it, and as i drove down the street to turn around, it shifted to 2nd really hard (yes with CE light on). / did this a couple times to make sure it did what it did.

Ok, i will check codes as soon as i get a reader that will read this truck, my current one won't. Just thought id get this out there and start getting some feedback. I have read a bunch of previous posts on running issues, so I'm already primed with looking at some things. If anything in particular feels right to comment on, please do! Thanks
 

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So no chip or anything, correct (based on sig)? Check wiring harness connections for PCM, 42-pin connector near fuse box, maybe firewall feedthrough as well. Check the ICP connection for pin contact and internal oil leakage. Check all battery connections (all ends). It will be interesting to see what a scanner says on the CEL. Cheers!
 

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Possible throttle pedal issue? Kinda had a similar random issue awhile back. I could not really tell in your post is the CEL on now in your truck or not? If is is not on currently you will probably need to retrieve the stored code with a real high end reader, I have never tried to do it with the ELM with Forescan lite, I have only read codes that are showing the CEL currently. Just a thought others will be able to get more technical on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My son is a tech, later today I'm going to try and drive it to his shop so he can put a proper scanner on it and pull any codes.

To answer the questions, I do have a tune from an Edge Evolution tuner, it's on the lowest setting. I'm believing it's not part of the issue, but never rule things out until I get it sorted. Working on it yesterday, the check engine light would come on after it sat for a while, after starting it. It would stay on, engine running loud and kinda rough, then after a short period the light would go off and the engine would smooth out (reduced engine sound as well). So.. no the CE light so far does not stay on, it's intermittent.

I'll update after i can retrieve any codes.
 

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The first thing that you need to do is to remove the tuner and put the PCM back to stock. Not just a stock setting but take it out completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bugman, the Evolution tuner is not connected to the truck. After uploading the tune it is removed. BUT, I understand what you are saying about putting it back to stock tune. Thanks
 

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I am also just going by memory but if I remember correctly the Edge products are not good for the automatic transmissions in these trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just tried to start it to go get the codes read, no dice... it cranked but ran the batteries down quick... like real quick... that aint good, lol. Got it on the charger...

To be continued...
 

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You might consider disconnecting the glow plug relay and just using the block heater.

Those glow plugs draw a lot of amps on the first start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, got it round triped to my son's shop. It's showing 2 codes. P0236 (turbo boost circuit performance) and P1280 ICP (something) low (forget if it was voltage or value).

Check engine light on then off the whole trip. Engine sometimes cuts out, then right back in... shifting is hard when light is on...

So... put an ICP sensor in it??

Yes the connector had a little oil on it, wasn't bad though... i blew it out with compressed air, no change...
 

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If there's oil in there, it usually means that the sensor is leaking internally (which might mean the actual pressure value is not being determined). It not really a matter of the oil messing up the physical wiring connection. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ordered the ICP sensor, it's supposed to be delivered by Saturday. Ordered the pigtail connector as well. So for now, I wait...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ICP sensor was late... finally delivered today. I just finished installing it and wiring in a new pigtail to it. Seems to have done the trick! It runs without any further shenanigans, actually the engine is quieter than I've heard it in a while now... i drove it about 6 miles, and it ran great. Thanks for all the advice and support guys, I do appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok... so yesterday all seemed hunky-dorey, i drove it no issues... Jumped in today to go somewhere, and no start... the batteries seemed run down a bit as well...

QUESTION: I've read the issues about a CPS going bad, and if I understand right, you shoud see the tach moving during cranking??? The past couple of days, when running, the tach works, however i never see it move during cranking until it fires up. With today's no start, could this be the issue? Weird that I am now dealing with a no start after all was well...
 

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Hi! PS50guy Yes, you should see the tach moving while cranking. I would switch it out with a new one they are fairly inexpensive if that doesn't fix it at least you will have a spare which is always a good idea to have an extra one with you also, check the wiring going to the connector for the CPS. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yep, I'll change it out, but I cant wrap my head around why it works running but not cranking...

I charged the batteries back up and it started up like nothing was wrong... I didn't do anything else to it yet...

Thanks!!
 

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Yeah, not sure on why it would work running and not when cranking maybe someone else, will chime in that knows. But, I can tell you that a bad CPS will leave you stuck on the side of the road which sucks. I keep two with me in my toolbox always keep one with you.
 

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Your batteries could be the key element.

The PCM needs 10 volts in order for it to work I believe. So if the batteries are marginal they may not be supplying enough voltage during starting due to the glow plugs and starter running at the same time.
 
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Your batteries could be the key element.

The PCM needs 10 volts in order for it to work I believe. So if the batteries are marginal they may not be supplying enough voltage during starting due to the glow plugs and starter running at the same time.
Good catch Bugman I was too focused on the CPS question didn't even pay attention to to the fact that his batteries were run down.
 
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