I hear you guys on the batteries. I will say, i went ahead and installed a new CPS. Right or wrong, the tach still doesn't move during cranking until the engie engine fires up (at least I don't see it happening). I'm not hung up on this, just thought I'd mention my observation. I think the sensor I took out was fine, so it's now in the glove box.
The truck seems ok now. I had the stored codes erased. I don't get a check engine light anymore... it has been starting normally, I have no idea why the other day it didn't start and i ran the batteries down trying... All i can do is address anything if it acts up ag6. I'll let ya'll know if that happens. Thanks!
I would for sure check the GPR, I replaced one a month or so on one of my trucks, It had been failing slowly and one day it just seemed to completely fail. Warm day and truck would not start (cold motor). I had the GRR in the shop, I immediately replaced it and the truck started better than it ever had. I was blown away at how much of a difference it made on a cold motor on a warm day. I replaced with the White Rogers ones.
I replaced the GPR with a new White Rogers unit. The voltages are now correct across the big terminals when the key is turned on, but i still experience a no start situation after it sits overnight. The batteries during the start attempt are fine, but i usually run them down trying to get it to fire. After i charge the batteries back up, and try it again I can usually get it to start. When finally running, it's doing well... no check engine light, running good.
So, I've installed a new (Ford) ICP sensor, new (Ford) CPS, and now the GPR.
The ICP cured the original problem, I installed the CPS because of the periodic no start, and now the GPR for the no start.
The periodic no start still happening.
Definitely could use further guidance...
"You might have a bad cell in one of your batteries. Would cause quick drain like you describe. maybe have a load test done."
During warm weather with a good running truck it should fire up within seconds of turning the key to start. Even it it is 90 degrees outside I always wait a few seconds after turning on the glow plug system to start both of my trucks. The batteries (IF GOOD) should never get low ever while trying to start our trucks even in winter ( in times of near zero degree weather I will plug them in just to help out the batteries and GP system). I am still scratching my head about what you may have going on. I will read back through the whole post again latter tonight. If you have not load tested the batteries yet I would, but that is not the root of your problem right now but it will bite you later.
I hear and understand about the batteries, but they're not the problem. This thing has something else going on. I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to it today and while cranking it, it only got up to 10 psi (and not immediately). After i managed to get it started, it only showed 18 psi. It's supposed to have 40 to 70 is what I'm reading. So, fuel pump? Fuel pressure regulator?
I'm troubleshooting without the advantage of a good scan tool which is not ideal. Maybe something else is wrong, but now this fuel pressure thing has my attention...
What exactly does "a no start situation" mean? The starter doesn't engage? If the batteries are strong, but the voltage to the starter &/or GPs is low, the battery terminals are always the primary suspect. Post several good pics of them.
Because the batteries do wear down pretty quick, i went ahead and bought new ones and installed them. All I can say is holy crap... I've owned this truck for 4 years and it has never cranked like it does now.
I take back my defending the batteries in earlier comments, I was wrong thinking they had enough life in them.
I have only tried starting it a few times since putting them in, but it started each time.
I still in fact have low fuel pressure and have ordered a new pump and oring kit to completely reseal the fuel filter housing along with the fuel pressure regulator.
Also, i bought an OBDlinkEX scan interface (for laptop) to Forscan. I have done the KOEO tests and KOER tests. (Injector buzz test and cylinder contribution tests both
I do have an issue with EBP sensor or valve, I'll check all that when i replace the pump.
Will the PCM turn on the CEL if the EBP solenoid is simply unplugged? Assuming the valve is not stuck in any position other than wide-open, is there any DISadvantage to simply disabling the system and leaving it installed? I realize that the valve (even when wide open) obstructs some of the exhaust - I mean, besides that.
I can guarantee my 97 with 225K that the EBP line is completely jammed up. In the 75k of hard towing I have done with it I have never had a CEL. This truck is an auto, with tymar intake, 3 inch downpipe into 4 inch diamond eye exhaust new up pipes and 203 degree thermostat. Knock on wood never had a CEL in 13.5 years of hard use. I replaced the sensor and line for it in my other 97 with around 295K because someone had broken the sensor connection off before i got the truck and the line was jammed up too. I was curious to see if it made any difference in a stock truck I noticed absolutely no difference in anything after I did it. This is a bone stock 1997 7.3 auto 3.55 rear with now 300,750k. This is my experience with the EBP. Please let me know if I am missing something, because others seem to have issues.
"Because the batteries do wear down pretty quick, i went ahead and bought new ones and installed them. All I can say is holy crap... I've owned this truck for 4 years and it has never cranked like it does now."
I am curious how long does it take to start your truck now? 2-3 seconds of cranking after WTS light? 4-5?
Mine both start I would say 2-3 seconds and I always wait till the idiot light turns off, I know that I do not have to but it has never let me down in doing it.