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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I pulled the drum off my truck yesterday and found sludge all over everything in there. I am making and assumption that the hub seal is bad and that I need to change it.

I found this write up:

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

But it states just for E250 & F250 and I don't know that the process
is the same for a F350. When I look up the tool they need for the ratcheting
nut is says it is only for up to 1994 and then 1985 and up But makes no mention of
F350 or any other. So I am uncertain if this tool is the same as well.

So I am just looking for a little guidance from those who have been down this road before me.

Thanks
 

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It doesn't say E250; it says F250/F250 which is almost certainly a typo of F250/F350. In any case, it says all trucks up to '97 and includes a link to ID your axle. Is your truck SRW or DRW? Semi-float or full-float?

. .

2 things I'd do differently than that article suggests:
1) set the jackstand higher under the leaking end of the axle to tilt it so you don't lose as much oil when you pull the hub;
2) use Hylomar blue instead of oil on the new seal.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. Yes, clearly my brain and I are at odds. I think because I saw 250 twice I assumed E on the first one. I am a dolt, what can I say.

As for the other questions, I have single rear wheels and not certain about the float at all. As for the float, I think it is this one so full float, but I am not certain.

 

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Just for info, all F350 from 1942 to current are full floating axles. They would not put a semi float in a 1T truck, just common sense. Thankfully in 1996 trucks made sense. They would never put a 5ft bed on a 1T truck either, that common sense is down the toilet on new trucks, but they still and always have used a full floating axle. Way to tell if you don't know, is the cool axle shaft protruding outwards of the center of your wheel, where semi floating has nothing there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So the old seal had a metal backing with some kind of collar that the seal surface rode on. The new seal said to take a ball peen hammer and deform that collar to remove it. It then said to clean up the surface with a file and emery cloth so the new seal will seat.

I fear this flawed design is going to leak in short order. Is there a seal manufacture that uses that same collar design? All I can find are seals that require the removal of it and do not replace it.
 

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The newer seals are probably improved so as not to require the collar. Just ask about the warranty, including labor. Some parts stores only extend a labor warranty on the part if it's installed professionally.
 

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Any OBS with a PowerStroke is the HD version and will have a full floating rear axle.
 

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On my 96 f-250 I had to change the rear wheel seals as soon as I bought it. I am assuming that they used the same axle on the 250 and 350 but I had no issues with the seals. if I remember correctly I just drained my diff, pulled my axles, removed the part housing the bearings and drove in new bearings and seals. The seals I bought from napa did not need any kind of modification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wanted to update this post with the pictures in case anyone needed clarification about what the old seals look like.

This is the old seal removed. The seal left, the "sleeve" is in the middle. And the last pieces is actually part of the seal as well. When new I believe this would be one piece.



This is what it would look like assembled.



Now this is the box for the new seal, and the section explaining how to install.





 

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Any updates?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I currently have nothing more to report on this. I am in the Middle of Arkansas right now. I left Michigan yesterday and headed to Texas. Doing a turn and burn to be back in Michigan by end of day Sunday. I have been checking the temperature of the hubs at every stop and they seem to be normal so there is a least fluid in there. I see no signs of leaks, but will pull it all apart next week after this trip and see if there is any seepage.
 

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If it leaks, and dont be discouraged if it does, then you can sleeve it. I tried two different seals and was still getting leaks and was very tired of taking it apart so i decided to fix the pitted spindle.
I smoothed out my pitted spindle with fine emery cloth, to remove and burrs not to try and remve pits, you dont wan to change the dimension. I smeared a very thin layer of jb weld over the pitted part to smooth the surface and before it set i then installed a speedi sleeve over that. Be careful with the sleeves they are very thin and easy to warp. I tapped it on with a piece of pvc pipe. The new hub seal rides on the sleeve and provides a perfect surface to seal on. Reinstalled everything and no more leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well I don't want to be discouraged, but it does leak and would like to know more about your sleeves. Just came back from a trip to Texas from Michigan and there were no leaks until about half way back. So I need to address this.


 

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Well I don't want to be discouraged, but it does leak and would like to know more about your sleeves. Just came back from a trip to Texas from Michigan and there were no leaks until about half way back. So I need to address this.


Ok if the spindle was pitted or scored you should sleeve it. Here was mine, tried two different seals still leaked due to excessive pitting on the shoulder where the seal rides.
[/URL][/IMG]

So I cleaned it up with some surface polishing with 1000 grit emery. Then I smeared a thin even layer of jb weld around that pitted area where the sleeve will go. Then I used a piece of pvc to gently tap the sleeve on. Now it looks like this:
[/URL][/IMG]

I believe I got the seal from skf. Or maybe redi-sleeve, im sorry i cant remember. Use the SKFScotseal plus xl, number 34384 hub seal. That plus the sleeve should work. Mine hasnt leaked a drop since.

Im torqued i cant find the part number for the sleeve itself, i thought i still had that in case i needed to do another one but i cant find it right now. I took calipers and measured to diameter of the spindle in that area to the thousandth. Average three measurements, and go to the skf size chart to order. It is a slight press fit, it will stretch a little for a tight fit. I used the jb weld to be sure and to smooth out my "bumpy" spindle a little. Once you get the sleeve in hand, take it to lowes and find a piece of pvc pipe of the right diameter to use as a driver. I think I used a 4" to 3 " reducer on the end of a 4" pipe. Use very light taps, it goes on easy and is thin.
 

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Found it, I used a national redi-sleeve from advance, part 99339.

Also I would try that scotseal rotating type seal i mentioned for the hub. Between these two items youll be good to go I think.
 

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Once you clean up/polish the spindle, be very careful when putting the hub back on not to nick the new seal. The scot seal rotates in itself just like the original seal but any seal is easy to nick on the threaded end of the spindle. When you retorque the hub rotate it back and forth as you tighten it
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I talked to Federal Mogul and they gave me a JV1509 number to use with their seal. This is supposed to be the right sleeve that works with their seal. But if you search for this, you will find it is only available with a kit in another seal that isn't for our trucks. Very crazy that nobody makes the seals like the OEM with a sleeve. Anyway, the number you supplied is a National part and National is just another division of Federal Mogul. I ordered two of them today and it will take a couple days they tell me to get them. Then I will do both sides even though one side isn't leaking....yet.

Why did you JB weld it on? What happens if you need to do this again in the future? I am thinking of just using some gasket sealer or silicone on it to make sure nothing leaks between them. Since it is a press fit it should work out just fine. Now... I hope the size I need is the same as yours, otherwise... yikes.

Thanks for the help.

Linc
 

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Well Im sure you could tell from the pictur but this sleeve is nothing like the heavy duty inner seal part you had to remove from the spindle. This sleeve is paper thin and not intended to add any appreciable width to the spindle. The aftermarket seals are meant to ride right on the spindle itself, but if there are any rust spots, pits or roughness it wont seal right hence the sleeve.

The jb weld was an attempt to fill in deeply pitted rough places on the spindle. I didnt think the sleeve would be thick enough and that it would take on the roughness of the underlying spindle, and so this worked for me. If your spindle isnt that bad, you likely dont need or want to use that. Polish up the spindle a little with some very fine emery or sandpaper, then clean it well, and just put the sleeve on. It will cover minor pitting, cuts or gouges and give the seal the same kind of surface a new spindle would have. I dont expect to have to sleeve it again but if the sleeve ever got damaged then yes i am gonna have a fun time peeling it off.

As for the hub seal, you want the kind that rotates in itself. It will have an inner part that stays stationary on the spindle, while the outer part rotates with the hub. Im sure you know this already but for anyone who hasnt done this sort of thing you need to be very anal about keeping the inside of the hub, bearings and races absolutely clean...that grease will pick up grit from you hands, sop floor etc that you definetely dont want in there.

As far as i know the spindles should be the same size...but i guess you are about to find out.

Good luck let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
First I want to thank you all for your help. But I ended up going another route.

I picked up the sleeves and they looked awesome, but they were $28.00 each. And
this is on top of the $44 I paid for the initial seals that I had purchased that were
leaking.



The fatal flaw of the seal was not the inner portion like I had expected. So the sleeve
ultimately wasn't going to solve my problem. Because the Federal Mogul replacement
seals are mostly steel on the outside they have no sealing ability. So once I removed
them I returned them and the sleeves to O'Reilly auto for a full refund even though
I had used the seals for three weeks.

The solution was actually quite simple and I am an idiot for not looking into it in the
first place. I went to the ford dealer and purchased this.



This only cost me $44 from the dealer and then I found them on ebay for as little
as $10 plus shipping. So I now have several spares. This is the exact same as what
came from the factory and like KyPatriot stated, they are a two piece design where
one parts stays on the hub and the other on the axle. This next image shows that
the inner sleeve that I had removed from my axle is actually a seal that slips over
and eventually binds to the axle housing.



It is also a seal on the outside that seals against the hub unlike the replacements
that I had previously purchased. The instructions said spray with lubricant and push
in, which is what I did.



So now I am as good as I can get with no leaks and a seal I feel like I can trust. And
the best part is that it cost me way less than the other options I was considering.
 

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Great! I assumed the seals were leaking because of a rough spindle...thats usually the case. Glad you didnt need the sleeves.
 
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