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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It started chugging and died on the road. I was able to get it started and then it quickly died again. I had it towed home.

I thought I might have some bad diesel so used water test paste on a wire in each tank. No water.

I figured it might be the CPS sensor so I replaced that. The Tachometer moves when I crank it and I had white smoke coming out the tail pipe.

I then tried disconnecting the ICP sensor and starting it. Still won't start and now no more white smoke.

I removed and checked the fuel filter and there is no fuel in the bowl. So I'm guessing I have a new problem now. Or maybe that was the issue all along.

I think my batteries are good. I checked the engine oil and that looks good.

Both tanks are full of diesel.

Last time I tried pulling codes with Forscan I got a code for the ICP sensor which I had reconnected. I accidentaly cleared the code and it's not pulling anything now.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This is the CPS replacement sensor I bought:


Is it possible the tachometer could be moving if the CPS sensor is bad?
 

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Did you check your fuel pressure? No fuel in the filter housing usually means that the lift pump is bad.
Any CPS other than one from Ford or International may or may not work. Aftermarket ones are very sketchy.

Water in the tanks would be on the bottom of the tank and not suspended in the diesel. About the only way to check for it is to drain it out of the filter housing into a clear container and then seeing if there is any water on the bottom once it settles.
 

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Ipr!!!!!!
 

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Check your oil level. When they run out, this is what can happen. Don't ask how I know.
 

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Your initial issue sounded like it could have been a fuel problem among other things but if your fuel bowl does not have fuel in it then that starts to point more towards a fuel issue, wouldn't it?

I do realize you blew white smoke when trying to start it so that does indicate there was atleast some fuel in the system but how long did you crank white smoke?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. Sorry for the slow reply. I cranked it off/on over a couple days.

Is it possible I blew up the pump cranking it? I'm guessing that is a no so I'll start with the pump. Is there a way I can test the pump?
 

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Classic bad fuel lift pump issue. Had it happen to me, but was able to limp home...
 

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Thanks guys. Sorry for the slow reply. I cranked it off/on over a couple days.

Is it possible I blew up the pump cranking it? I'm guessing that is a no so I'll start with the pump. Is there a way I can test the pump?

You can disconnect the two fuel lines where the lines jump from the frame to the engine. (Somehow), extend the suction side (the larger of the two) line into a bucket of diesel fuel and crank the engine,

This will tell you if your issue is from that point forward or backwards.
 

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Is it possible I blew up the pump cranking it? I'm guessing that is a no so I'll start with the pump. Is there a way I can test the pump?
The pump can kind of work/fail/work for a short period. Cranking may or may not have quickened its death, but it was on its way as diesel fuel over the last 20 years have eroded the diaphragm. It happens to all of our trucks. It's fairly easy for a quality mechanic to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Roger, It will be this high quality (NOT) mechanic doing the work :) -----------> Me. Any recommends on parts? Go with the Ford OEM stuff? I don't mind blowing the time as long as I've got it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Arg, I finally got back to working on this. Filling up the fuel bowl with diesel and cranking it did not start the truck so maybe I have multiple issues going on. I'm at least getting white smoke again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If the Tach moves is it a guarantee that the CPS sensor is good?

The CPS sensor is required to be operating correctly to power the pump, right?

To disconnect the fuel lines from the frame to the engine and try that route to prove out the pump issue do I have to remove the fuel bowl and parts of the turbo?

I'm assuming that because it didn't start after I filled up the bowl with diesel and cranked it that maybe the pump isn't bad. Is that possible?
 

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Arg, I finally got back to working on this. Filling up the fuel bowl with diesel and cranking it did not start the truck so maybe I have multiple issues going on. I'm at least getting white smoke again.
This has probably been mentioned but filling the fuel bowl will not start the truck unless there is sufficient fuel pressure behind it.

In other words, your fuel pump needs to be working. Have you checked your fuel pressure?

Sorry if you mentioned it above but I am using an iphone these days and its tough foe me to scroll through the fine print. :nerd:
 

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The PCM uses the CPS to time when to fire the injectors. Has nothing to do with fuel feed. Nothing "powers" the pump except the camshaft. Notice there are no wires on it?

There's a rare situation where you can get a tach reading with a failed CPS. But if you're getting smoke, you're getting fuel injection, so the CPS is working.

You don't need to do anything with the fuel bowl or filter if you want to do the "dip" test; just disconnect the supply line from the FSV and dip it in a jerry can. The return can still go back to whichever tank, as long as it's not full.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Whew... Got the fuel bowl disconnected and the old pump out. It was a ***** and I broke the tappet part of the pump getting it out (like many). I did rotate the crank bore to the top so I was able to pull the broken parts out with pliers.

I managed to tear apart one of the return lines connected to the pressure regulator. I tore the hose right after the metal thingamajig connection. Please see pic. So the metal connector piece may be toast too. If it is still good can I repair the hose? I'm wondering if I can get parts at NAPA.

Other question I have is since I've got it all apart what materials/chemicals can I use to clean up the oil sludge in the valley? I've got a leak coming from the Turbo but that's a job for another day.
 

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That's just stock diesel-rated fuel line, 30R9. You should replace all the hoses when R&I'ing the bowl or pump anyway. Buy it in bulk at the FLAPS. The fitting should be undamaged; just cut the remnant bit of hose off of it.

Oil cleanup - any degreaser and enough shop towels should do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Madpogue. What does FLAPS mean? If the fitting is damaged is that a part I can pick up at NAPA? I pulled a dumbell prize and cranked on the fitting instead of the nut thus tearing the hose off right at the fitting.
 

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Friendly Local Auto Parts Store (such as NAPA).

Is there any of the hose still on the fitting? Can you post a pic of what's left?
 
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