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'96 Powerstroke won't start

12336 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  tobesswind, 
J
Replaced fuel mech fuel pump,fuel filter,rebuilt ipr,new icp and pigtail,new glow plugs,new valve cover gaskets the harnesses for under valve covers and the pigtails for outside of valve covers, all electrical connections were soldered and heatshrinked. Brand new interstate batteries. Truck cranks over , no smoke from tailpipe, tach is at about 300 rpms and it slightly jumps about 50 rpm or so .sometimes if I crank it long enough the cel light comes on but when I quit cranking it goes off and won't come back for a while. Kinda stumped because I've spent all this money and I've still got a yard ornament and I've got to move it soon because they are paving my road. Any suggestions? It will hit a lick or 2 on ether but won't stay running on its own
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Was it running before you did all this work?

Regardless, start with the basics:
Check your fuel pressure.
Check your hpop oil level.
Check all fuses.

Since you had the IPR out, you've allowed air to get into the hpop. I doubt you'll ever crank the air out of it, so you need to crack the nuts on the oil lines and burp it. Do one head at a time.

+1 on what Jasper79 says - using aftermarket parts is mighty risky.
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A bad CPS can cause funny run issues - they're less than $30 at Ford dealerships. Replacing it is the quickest/cheapest way to test it.

You need to know your fuel pressure - without guessing at it.

You may have a high-pressure oil leak. Rig up a 5000 psi pressure gauge ($20) and use it to block the end of the passenger side oil line. Unplug the ICP. Crank the engine, read the cranking pressure, and see if the engine starts/runs on the driver-side bank only.

This test takes the passenger-side head out of the equation. If you get 750 psi cranking pressure, you'll (99%) know the HPOP, IPR, PCM, and driver-side injector o-rings are good. If it starts and runs on 4, you'll know your fuel system, IDM, and driver-side electrical are good. Running on 4 will point to a passenger-side head problem.

Move the gauge to the driver-side oil line, re-connect the passenger-side oil line. Unplug the ICP. Crank the engine and look for 750psi and start/run. This test takes the driver-side head out of the equation.

If you get no pressure on the driver-side test, report back before you do any more parts changing!

For $20 and 1 hour of your time, you can eliminate a lot of possible causes of the no start/no run issue.

Trouble-shooting is all about positively eliminating possibilities in the least amount of time and at the least possible cost. Trouble-shoot first, replace parts second.
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And don't toss your old VC gaskets away! You'll need a piece of the wiring harness should we need to go to the next trouble-shooting step.
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jbusam115 said:
Update... I went on and replaced the IPR. crank the truck . nothing until it builds oil pressure. Then it will start to hit a lick here and there. It becomes regular and I'm billowing smoke and it smells like raw fuel in the exhaust smoke. But the Truck will not start.I can run the batteries dead . It will run a bit on starting fluid . but I'm not gonna put too much in it.whY would this thing not be starting on its own. Where there is smoke there is fire right?
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Did you purge the air from the high pressure oil lines?
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Did you ever PROPERLY test the fuel pressure?

Now that you have a new IPR, you might try unplugging the ICP again.

I would either scan it, or manually rig up and test the high oil pressure. Since I don't own a scanner, I'd test the oil system as outlined above. Remove any crossover line first.

But I wouldn't do anything until I knew the fuel pressure was good.
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