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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 97 f250 with a 7.3 . Shortly after adding some questionable fuel the truck stalled. First time trying to restart it sounded promising, but nothing. I've done some testing and seaching

I put 911 in tank n drained filter housing.
Put in new filter n 911 in housing.
have great pressure at shraeder valve
Hi pressure oil pump is full
No oil out of side of injector
wont start with icp off
will run on starting fluid ( I know I know)
all fuse good
batteries are great and have been on charge to prevent from draining


Really in a pinch, don't have money to be shooting in the dark.
I am very mechanical, but have limited 7.3 experience
 

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IPR nut tight ? IPR wiring solid ?
 

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Have a 97 f250 with a 7.3 . Shortly after adding some questionable fuel the truck stalled. First time trying to restart it sounded promising, but nothing. I've done some testing and seaching

I put 911 in tank n drained filter housing.
Put in new filter n 911 in housing.
have great pressure at shraeder valve
Hi pressure oil pump is full
No oil out of side of injector
wont start with icp off
will run on starting fluid ( I know I know)
all fuse good
batteries are great and have been on charge to prevent from draining


Really in a pinch, don't have money to be shooting in the dark.
I am very mechanical, but have limited 7.3 experience
the same thing happened to my truck. change the cps cam positioning sensor that should do the trick
 

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Have you checked the Cam Position Sensor (CPS)

CPS PROBLEM


This applies to all PowerStroke motors from late 1994 to 2002.
Diagnosis: A bad cam position sensor is usually signified by the PowerStroke motor abruptly and unexpectedly quitting. The motor may also be suffering from slight power loss and slight increase in fuel usage which is usually not noticeable until it is seen as an improvement when the sensor is replaced. When the CPS causes the motor to shut down, the tachometer will not register. If the motor fails to restart, the tachometer will not register when the starter is turning the motor over. This may or may not cause the check engine light to come on.
Part Numbers: The International parts are usually half the price of Ford's, and I wouldn't buy one from Ford unless you absolutely had to.
International part numbers:
A change occurred mid way through 1997, so if you have a 97 it is best to look at the engine serial number. For serial number before serial number 375549 use PN# 1821720C98. For serial number 375549 (including this number) and after use PN# 1825899C93.
Ford Part Numbers:
For 1996 and older use PN# F6T012K073A For 1997 and newer use PN# F7T012K073A
Remove/Replace: CPS replacement is a very simple process. It is located at the 10 o'clock position of the crankshaft pulley and secured with one 10 mm bolt. Removing the serpentine belt will facilitate the removal. Step 1) Make sure key is off and disconnect battery or pull #9 fuse. This is always a good idea when working on engine electronics.
Step 2) Remove engine belt
Step 3) Unplug wiring plug from sensor by prying out on the little plastic tab and pushing it out of it's socket
Step 4) Use 10 mm socket with small extension to remove 10 mm bolt
Step 5) Clean any dirt or grease off of sensor and surrounding area to prevent contamination of crankcase oil and seal of new sensor
Step 6) Use pliers, pry bar, or whatever else to gently remove sensor by pulling it straight out. It may be slightly stuck and slight force may be needed to loosen it. It is ok to twist it in its socket to loosen it if necessary.
Step 7) Coat new sensor o-ring with clean engine oil and press sensor into hole.
Step 8) Replace 10 mm bolt, torque to 10 ft-lbs, or just make sure it is snug.
Step 9) Replace wiring plug by simply pressing it into position until you hear the holding tab click into place.
Step 10) Replace belt.
Step 11) Ensure battery has been disconnected or #9 fuse has been out for at least 30 minutes. After this amount of time, they can be replaced.
Step 12) Start engine and inspect for leaks or other problems. Make sure belt has been properly aligned on each of the pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All wiring is in good condition. Im not familiar with the nut you are talkin bout. Gonna price cam sensor, sounds like a decent place to start. Does run on spray, if cam sensor was bad would it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cam sensor is cheap, but I don't think it is the problem. My tach DOES register when engine is cranking. Also I get good oil pressure when cranking.

You guys think I should try it? Y don't ANY injectors have oil coming out? Could a good dose of water ruin injectors n stop from working??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wasn't cam sensor. Is there a second fuel pump after filter?? I have fuel after filter, just none coming out of the injectors. Any suggestions as to why there is no oil conning out of injectors?? When I crack oil lines loose at head, oil comes out, but doesn't dump out. Any way to check pump
 

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Nope, only one fuel pump ...you are getting good fuel pressure ? Well I guess you need to make yourself a 0-3000 psi mechanical guage and connect it to one of the heads...You could also have a toasted injector o-ring.... do you know the mileage of the injector o-rings ? Is there any way you can monitor the IPR or HPOP pressure with a scan tool ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have good fuel pressure. Even pressurized tank to see if that was it. Truck has 195k on it, would assume it is origional, as is most of the truck (truck was well cared for) buddy of mine owns a minekee, has a snapon scan tools, would have to ask .

When I cracked lines open and cranked, oil did come out. Cranked about as much as needed for cold start. Only maybe a shot glass worth of oil came out.

I could easily make a pressure gage, what should it be? Also how hard is it to swap pump?? Have access to a running 2000 f350. Don't know if they are the same.


Can it be rebuilt?
 

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Borrow the snap on and see if HPOP pressure reaches 500 psi if it does not you probably have a dusted o-ring.....If the truck was well cared for I doubt it is the HPOP itself ....most likely an o-ring
 

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your injectors are not turnign on for some reason, either its not told to turn on or IPR failed, you need a mech pressure gauge, if it reads over 500psi then the injectors are not told to turn on.
 

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No you need to remove one of the plugs in the head and tap the guage into that....
 

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Not that I know of....if you unplug it it willl NEVER start.....
 
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