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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Okay so it’s winter time in ny, just got a 1997 Ford F-250 7.3 with 275,xxx miles. Torque converter was doing its normal thing with the third brake light being out so i unplugged the third brake light housing and drive down to the local parts store half mile down the road. I got a bulb but was gunna put it in at home so I headed that way. Truck was running good shifted fine and all, then it started running funny died on me on the side of the road. Called a buddy he towed me to his garage figured it was gelling up (10 degrees outside with wind blowing hard). Well we had to flat tow the truck to his garage and when we got there I tried to start it and it started and ran fine. Well we put diesel 911 in and let it sit in the heated garage for 3 hours came back was fine started and ran. Late that day I changed the bulb and took the truck out again ran great everything was good. Next day driving to work truck dies 5 miles from home. Waiting a couple minutes starts up again goes about another mile and dies wait and starts again dies about 2 miles down the road and that’s it doesn’t start again had to have it towed to my house. Buddy hooked his ford lab top to it (diesel mechanic) says ipr icp and it’s getting a fuel pressure. While on the side of the road I checked the fuel housing and there wasn’t much fuel in the bowl. So we filled it with fuel about half way because the filter would push the rest up top of the bowl. He told me it did that before. He cranked on it while being towed and it started. We are stumped on what it is. Sorry for the long story! But really need help!
 

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How did he check fuel pressure? And did he mean ipr and icp check out good, or that there is a problem?
My initial thought is fuel, whether delivery, sucking air, or a pressure problem due to the regulator.
 

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To start with where do you live at that it is getting that cold. If it is normal temperatures for that area then it is likely that they fuel is already treated for those temperatures.

On the fuel pressure, there is no way to monitor or look at the fuel pressure without placing a manual gauge onto the filter housing.

With low fuel in the filter housing I would suspect the lift pump. How much fuel is in each tank and did you try switching tanks?
 
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If your fuel started to gel did you think to replace the filters. I believe they get a wax coating on them and not sure 911 will help remove the wax from the filter element I would just replace them just because.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey guys just wanted to give an update. I take that back he didn’t check the fuel pressure he misspoke and Kent to say it has oil pressure. I haven’t check fuel pressure, I thought it always made a noise when I turned the key on but it doesn’t. I changed the fuel filter and added 9-1-1 to it and still nothing so it’s not gelled up as it was a nice warm 60 degrees in ny for 4 days. The wts still comes on and the battery’s are good cells just dead from cranking so I have them on charge. One question I have is if they fuel pump is mechanical then how does it put fuel in the filter bowl when I turn the key over but not crank it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey guys just wanted to give an update. I take that back he didn’t check the fuel pressure he misspoke and Kent to say it has oil pressure. I haven’t check fuel pressure, I thought it always made a noise when I turned the key on but it doesn’t. I changed the fuel filter and added 9-1-1 to it and still nothing so it’s not gelled up as it was a nice warm 60 degrees in ny for 4 days. The wts still comes on and the battery’s are good cells just dead from cranking so I have them on charge. One question I have is if they fuel pump is mechanical then how does it put fuel in the filter bowl when I turn the key over but not crank it?
 

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One question I have is if they fuel pump is mechanical then how does it put fuel in the filter bowl when I turn the key over but not crank it?
It doesn't.
 
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You are having similar problems to what I had a month or so ago. When cranking look below your wait to start light to see if your water in fuel light flashes. If it does not, the switch that controls it maybe bad. You may have gotten bad fuel and the water froze up. When it is warm out above freezing, drain your bowl into a clean container and look for water. You can do it while the truck is running, or if it is not running open the lid to the fuel filter and flip the drain for a couple of seconds
 

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No.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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The solenoid being stuck on the shaft has nothing to do with the inner workings of the IPR...
Have you checked your fuel tank selector valve yet? They get stuck and will not allow the proper volume of fuel into your pump and filter and will cause the symptoms you have described. Have someone switch tanks while you are touching the valve (on the lower left frame rail) and if it works you will both feel and hear it switching.
 

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So does that mean it’s stuck open? Somethings not letting my injectors to open.
Not necessarily. But it could have fried or something. Check resistance on it through the pins.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The solenoid being stuck on the shaft has nothing to do with the inner workings of the IPR...
Have you checked your fuel tank selector valve yet? They get stuck and will not allow the proper volume of fuel into your pump and filter and will cause the symptoms you have described. Have someone switch tanks while you are touching the valve (on the lower left frame rail) and if it works you will both feel and hear it switching.
I always use the rear tank because my front one has a hole in it.
 
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