The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have searched the forums and just looking for help with AE.

99.5 270k on the clock. I have had log crank start since last week. About 4-5 seconds to start. Usually fires over real quick. Truck runs fine otherwise. The IPR was replaced 4 years ago when I got the truck. I had the batteries out and cleaned them up and charged them two days ago and still long crank. Had the batteries tested and one was bad. They were 4.5 years old. So now have two brand new batteries and it still has a long crank. Fuel pressure is good at 65 PSI and tank is 1/2 full.

I havent been drivin it as much because I now have a work truck. I noticed this morning about 50 degree morning. I know that is not that cold that I had the longer crank. Drove it for 1.5 hours. It sat for 4 hours now its in the high 70's went and out and it started just fine.

I was originally thinking a HPO problem but with it starting fine when its warm it seems to me a cold start issue now.

Ok did some AE tests

Tested the KOER Glow plug - No problems
KOEO Buzz test - All buzz fine but get the P1298 IDM Failure (I have a PHP tuner that may be it)
KOER regular test - Get the back pressure valve code probably because I gutted the valve.

Any info on what else to test would be great.

AJ
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Hi, I suggest clearing that code to see if it comes back.
I would monitor injection pressure. See how long it takes to hit 500 psi., which it must hit before the injectors are turned on.
How old are your injector orings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bought this used so I have no idea. Im the 3rd owner Im gonna guess the injectors are original.

So monitored ICP and at KOEO it measured at 19. That is not correct right? It should be at 0 correct? Should I swap the ICP sensor?

At start It went went to 600 psi immediately on start. So spike to like 2000 immediately at start and then to 600 and settled at 530 at idle in the mid 600 rpms.

Duty cycle at 11ish at idle.

Started right up everytime.

I guess I should do this in the morning when its cold and has sat all night in the 50's.

Anything else I am missing?

AJ
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
So it will hit 500 or better right away when cranking? Not upon start. How long does it take once you start cranking.
Yes it should be at 0 when off but may have been reading residual pressure immediately after shut off.

Have you done a voltage drop test on the glow plug relay and ohmed glow plugs?

So it's a long crank on restart after warm right? If so almost always hydraulic.


Any 7.3 needs new orings for reliability if ancient or you're unsure of.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Sorry just Reread. So it's a long crank when cold? Idle test relay and plugs if you have:
Voltage of 10.5
Cranking speed of 100rpm or better
Hit 500 psi or better
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maryland,

Sorry having trouble following ,thanks for the help though.

So to clarify. WHile doing all these tests it has fired up immediately and ICP immediately to 2200 and then to 600 just as fast as it idles. This is not while cold as I have driven it today.

I will hook it up in the Morning when its cold to get a check then.

I just read some more AE stuff. I forgot the glow plug KOER is only for CA trucks. My X is a CA but my F350 is from NM so it has the relay.

So i have not ohmd the glow plugs or done a voltage test drop on the GPR. I guess thats where I need to go since this is only happening when its cold. Perhaps just coincidence that one of my batteries was bad.

AJ
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Yeah if you have meet the items I listed for starting and you hit 500 or better almost immediately upon cranking, I would do a voltage drop test on the relay.
Activate relay with a jumper wire. Once jumped measure the inlet and outlet voltage readings. Then unplug the harness going into the valve cover. The two front and two back pins are the glow plugs. Look for .2 to 2.0 ohms. That is done by switching meter to ohms and touching one lead on a pin and other on a good good like the head or negative post of battery.

If you need a relay I suggest the White Stancor Diesel Orings. Com carries.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
this is nice reason to get a new voltmeter. my current lcd screen is all but shot. YEah was on the DO site and will get a stancor if mine is bad. Will test tonight when I get home.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Two months ago I got a really nice one from Sears. My Snap On was in the shop for like a month. I like the Sears one. It even has a temperature probe that plugs into it. It's now the one I take in the field.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So never got to get a new voltmeter. This morning i put a test light on twice and the GPR was working and of course it fired right up no delay. Im wondering if the relay is just going bad. Need to get the voltmeter to check for voltage drop across the relay. Can these thinga be finicky? One day not working well the next work fine?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
A relay that has a voltage drop will still light a test light. You first need to draw down the voltage by activating relay with a jumper than read in and out voltage. You need to ohm each glow plug with engine harness disconnected at valve covers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
628 Posts
How long had it been sitting? If it'd been a few days you may have a slow leak down in the hpo system somewhere and now that you've been messing with it oil level is staying up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Still havent tested but has been starting fine. It sat for about 5 days wondering if
Maybe a slow hpo system leaking down. That coupled with one dead battery making it tough. I will test it this week to be sure its not the solenoid.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top