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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
If you are throwing black smoke down, you do not have clogged screens. Did you check the nut on the back of the IPR?
I did not get around to that yet as last time I looked, I oddly enough couldn’t find it, maybe it’s just covered in black **** but I’ll take a closer look next time I mess with it. I did check the ICP sensor and it didn’t have oil in it, so I assume that means it’s fine
 

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You could try running the truck with the ICP disconnected and see if it runs better. It's a temporary thing you can do.
The IPR sticks out of the back of the fuel bowl, and it sits just to the left of the ICP if you are in front of the truck. If you can move the barrel part then that's a sign the nut is loose, or missing.
 

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Google 7.3 IPR location image. If that nut is loose or gone the magnet is going to be shifting around, potential causing an inconsistent condition. You have to unplug the connector from the ICP and look down into the sensor for oil. You are not looking for oil “ On It”.
 

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"Rolls coal really easy"
The control rod on the exhaust back pressure valve arm from the actuator has lost its retaining clip and has slipped off the butterfly valve post. The control rod is now just bumping against it from time to time or not at all. Exhaust back pressure valve is just flopping free. Sometimes it's open and then it closes. Which is why you roll coal at times.
 

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I have a 1999 F350 7.3 with a zf6 manual transmission. Backstory is we bought it after it had been sitting for 8+ years
For almost 2 years now we have been trying to diagnose this specific problem where you randomly get loss of power. Its also not a complete loss of power, before replacing EBPS and tube sometimes it would climb very very closely even when foot to floor, after a few weeks of driving it, it has come back but not as badly. Still noticeable loss of power but not to the point where it hardly climbs. It’s not consistent and happens randomly and usually goes away after turning off the engine and letting it sit for a bit. I’ve done as much research as possible and still have not come up with a solution.
We have replaced EBPS and tube because it was clogged and tube had a rust hole in it, got a new CPS a while ago but I doubt that’s the problem since we haven’t done nearly enough driving due to this problem. I think we replaced the waste gate and new IPR valve (I think that’s what it’s called) and new ECM
I go back to college at the end of the month and need my truck up and running so perfectly fine so it can make it there
(If any part names are wrong, I apologize, I’m not super knowledgeable about these things and this is my dad and I’s truck)
Any info or suggestions would be much appreciated, I joined this forum specifically to get help with this
I think you need to drop your fuel tank and clean the fuel filter that is built into the fuel pump that's in your tank it's probably coded with the coating that they put inside the metal tanks sounds like the coating is moving around giving you fuel and then starving you fuel That would be why I would say the loss of power
 

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If he is laying down black smoke, he is getting plenty of fuel.
If the E clip came off of the wastegate post ( I think it’s possible if it rotted off), I doubt the actuating rod would pop off due to the spring pressure and the fact that, that rod end would have to rise up about 5/16 of an inch to come off of that post. I am inclined to feel that would be unlikely.
When the circular valve that is about 7/8 of an inch in diameter,that is the waste gate, it only opens up, oh.. about 1/2 an inch. The exhaust pushing into the turbine housing would tend to keep it closed. The valve is installed in the turbine housing, not outside of it. Plus if it did go rogue, it would be audible slapping.
 

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When I rebuild these turbos, I always put an upgrade actuator on and even if I was using an original ( I did that this winter because a customer wanted me to replace his actuator that he noticed the pod rotted out and he bought an OEM before he called me), I leave the mounting nuts off so that it is easer to get that rod end up and over the post when I apply air pressure to the actuator pod to overcome the pressure of the spring within the pod, to get it to extend out to where the post is. I then lift up and put it over the post. I then relieve the pressure, put the two nuts on the two threaded posts coming out of the pod. I then install the E clip.
 

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Also, the air pressure actuating fitting would have rotted off where it meets the pod OR the pod buddy itself would rot completely away long before the E clip would because the body of the pod is this made of thinner and softer metal than the E clip is.
 

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If the hoses ends rotted, the air pressure fitting on the pod rotted off or the pod buddy rotted out, the spring in the pod would still be holding the waste gate closed. It opens when the PCM commands the waste gate acuating solenoid to open. Pressurized air comes out of a fitting on the compressor manifold. It enters the red tube. It goes to the solenoid. When it opens, it goes in a red tube to to pod to pressurize it.
Teacher has to eat dinner now.
 

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With this thing having sat so long, there is a strong possibility that there is a rodent nest in the air intake tunnel in the grill. If you were a rodent out in the wild and you eyeballed that hole, you would climb up there to check it out. If you saw it was a tunnel, you would move your things in and perhaps start a happy little family.
 

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I think you need to drop your fuel tank and clean the fuel filter that is built into the fuel pump that's in your tank it's probably coded with the coating that they put inside the metal tanks sounds like the coating is moving around giving you fuel and then starving you fuel That would be why I would say the loss of power
Just a couple problems here: There's no fuel pump in the tank of a 99 F350, although there are filter screens in the pickup foot. And, the tank on a 99 F350 is plastic, not metal. There's no coating to come loose.
 
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