[hceberha]

I've got a '99 F-250 with a 7.3 and 6-spd manual. I was driving down the road today, and the check engine light came on, and the engine started running rough. It was shaking like crazy, and low on power. I turned around and took it straight home. It started fine, but still shaking. It feels like it's only running on 7. Any suggestions? Also, is there an easy way to check codes without a scanner? I know my old GM cars, you could check 'em with a paperclip.

Any help would be appreciated. Also, I changed the oil about 50 miles ago. I checked the oil and the level is fine. I used Rotella T.

Thanks!

 

[Excavator]

My first place to look would be under valve cover harness. You need a Powerstroke Freindly scanner to pull the codes and yes it would show what cylinder is mis firing weather it is harness or IDM (injector Drive module) or injector solenoid. Only other way with out some special equipment would be remove the v covers and pull one wire at a time while idleing and see if any dont miss worse and that is the miss

 

[Fireride]

I had a similar problem. Ended up being the harness. You can unplug the harness on top of the valve cover one side at a time. Should be able to determine which bank is effected. If you have to replace a harness I would suggest glow plugs and both harnesses. Its just a matter of time and you will be back in there.

 

[hceberha]

I borrowed an OBDII scanner from AutoZone, will that work with a Powerstroke?
Also, does the Valve Cover harness run the glow plugs or injectors or both? I'm used to the old IDIs. Still learning about the Powerstrokes.

Thanks again!

 

[F350_6]

The plug runs both the glow plugs and the injectors. You can check things to get an idea of which valve cover needs to come off with a multi-meter that can read ohms. The front 2 and rear 2 pins are for the glow plugs. Check the pin at the valve cover connector against a good ground. A good glow plug will give you a reading between 0.1 - 2 ohms. Then test the 3rd, 4th, 6th, & 7th pin against the center 5th pin. These are your injector wires. A good injector should read less than 5 ohms, but look for similar readings here. A bad solenoid can read about 0.6 ohms less than the good injectors, but still cause the problems you're having.

When I ran across a bad solenoid, the IDM shut down that entire bank, so if that's the case, the unplug the connector while the truck is running trick will work.

 

[freestroker]

No, the code reader from Autozone will not read the codes. It may spit back some codes, but the codes you get may not even apply to the truck. As Chris pointed out you can accomplish quite a bit with a multi meter at the harness connections. Biggest problem I found was that the pins are very close together and sometimes its hard to get the probes to make good contact while you fumble to hold two probes on two pins and read the meter. If you don't have a meter you should be able to borrow one form the Zone.

Peter

 

[GMG2EOD]

I had the same thing happen to my 2002 today.

Started fine, sounded a little funny, but it was in the 30's so I didn't think much of it. Gave it some pedal to get out on the road and the check engine light came on and it lost most of the power.

I shut it off and started it again, same result. I barely had enough power to back up into my parking lot. And it shook like hell when I gave it full throttle.

I had it towed to a dealer.

 

[The_Dude]

I had the same thing happen to my 2002 today.

Started fine, sounded a little funny, but it was in the 30's so I didn't think much of it. Gave it some pedal to get out on the road and the check engine light came on and it lost most of the power.

I shut it off and started it again, same result. I barely had enough power to back up into my parking lot. And it shook like hell when I gave it full throttle.

I had it towed to a dealer.

What was the resolution?

 

[dflagg58]

I just went through the very same thing with my truck a week ago. It ended up being the Injector Pressure Regulator. It can easily be checked with one that you know works, or it can found with a shop grade scanner. I found the part online for 184 bucks and it only took about 20 minutes to change out. Runs like a champ now.

 

[GMG2EOD]

It was the Valve Cover Wiring Harness, as several had suggested.

My 7.3 only has 85,000 miles, so I didn't replace the other side, though I did talk to the diesel tech about it. It may may go another 90k before it craps out, too.

Thanks to the board for the info.

 

[dwfpowerstroke]

i'm working on a 2001 f450 will run about 10 miles then ses light blinks on and off smokes like a train and loses power will not go over 2'000rpms and slow to a stop then call the hook truck sets for sometime it will start back up and doe's the samething

 

[fordpowerstroke1234]

i got the same problem with a 99 but it will shut all the way off not all at one time but slowly its kinda acks like it blows a incooler boot off then its makes the check engine light comes on now its a code p0475 not sure what it is but i been working on mine everday so if you find out let me no if i find out ill let you no

 

[dwfpowerstroke]

THIS ONE HAD THE RAIL PUMP AND THATS ALL FORD SAID ABOUT IT I'VE PULLED BOTH VALVE COVERS OFF CHECKED WIRES ALL WAS GOOD DID FIND SOMEONE HAD REPLACED IDM AND PUT A LOW VOLT ON IT SO I'VE REPLACING IT TODAY

 

[fordpowerstroke1234]

i changed my cumpter and all wires under hood runs good now.. but my cluster is messed up my wait to start light wont work..