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Your ipr reading is still wrong. It will read in percent from 14 to over 80, but I have heard that around 70ish is max that it will open. Dont quote me on those numbers, someone smarter than my is sure to correct me. Try this on the xgauge program setup.
IPR Duty Cycle
07E0221434
046285140634
3008
0DCA03E8000A
IPR %
 

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We all want to save dollars by being our own mechanic. I commend you for do so. But you are on vacation and how can you enjoy anything while worrying if your truck is going to start every time you shut it off.

Time to head to a Ford Dealer and get it fixed.
Yes it going to be expensive - dealers or specialized diesel mechanics up here north of Boston Ma are getting in the $150 to &170 dollar per hour range.
I am extremely lucky to have a shop ( Not a Ford Dealership) that specializes in Diesel repairs. I have had to visit Scott's shop 4 times over the 19 years I have owned my 7.3 but it was well worth the peace of mind.
What would you rather have,,,
Peace of mind when you shut down for the night and the rest of a lovely vacation
Heading to the parts store and then getting out the tools every night to see if you can fix it yourself.

Just my 2 cents
Mike T.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I would still poor some ice cold water onto the IPR when you have a hot no start. It it starts then the IPR may be defective.

Sometimes things can test just fine once up and running and then give you problems trying to start.

Having a defective sensor or part right out of a new box isn't uncommon, and depending on where the part was purchased at I have seen where people have placed a cleaned up defective part back into a new box and returned it to get their money back.
Thanks, is the cold water supposed to somehow "trick" the IPR valve into closing, hence building pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Your ipr reading is still wrong. It will read in percent from 14 to over 80, but I have heard that around 70ish is max that it will open. Dont quote me on those numbers, someone smarter than my is sure to correct me. Try this on the xgauge program setup.
IPR Duty Cycle
07E0221434
046285140634
3008
0DCA03E8000A
IPR %
Where did you get these IPR settings?

I've been using the reference here:


Which is different than what you have above.


We all want to save dollars by being our own mechanic. I commend you for do so. But you are on vacation and how can you enjoy anything while worrying if your truck is going to start every time you shut it off.

Time to head to a Ford Dealer and get it fixed.
Yes it going to be expensive - dealers or specialized diesel mechanics up here north of Boston Ma are getting in the $150 to &170 dollar per hour range.
I am extremely lucky to have a shop ( Not a Ford Dealership) that specializes in Diesel repairs. I have had to visit Scott's shop 4 times over the 19 years I have owned my 7.3 but it was well worth the peace of mind.
What would you rather have,,,
Peace of mind when you shut down for the night and the rest of a lovely vacation
Heading to the parts store and then getting out the tools every night to see if you can fix it yourself.

Just my 2 cents
Mike T.
Agreed, I'd happily pay someone, I found a diesel mechanic in West Glacier who replaced the IPR. I've called him back and a few other shops, also been looking for shops along the way, long story short I'm having trouble finding someone to look at it with short notice.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Hello Again!

Thanks again for everyone's help trying to diagnose while I was on the road, I really really appreciate it.

So I drove the truck for over a week and probably 1,500+ miles starting on starting fluid every time... Montana, to Wyoming, through Idaho, Nevada, back to Cali... (Related, Glacier and Yellowstone are amazing!) It's noticeably down on power, especially towing on grades, but it got us home!

Literally in my driveway when I got home it started puking oil...



Fortunately, this was an easy fix. The bolt/plug above the IPR on the back of the HPOP was literally finger tight... I put a new o-ring and a little gasket maker on it and that's fixed.



The o-rings on the steel fuel lines were toast so also replaced those.



While I was in there, I replaced the IPR, I got a Motorcraft IPR and a new pigtail from Riff Raff. So I also put in the new pigtail, the stock one was pretty mangled up. I looked through the wiring harness a bit and checked some of the surrounding sensors, ICP, the couple on the front of the "timing cover", etc. No obvious issues.

(I should probably check that the wiring to the IPR is doing what it should - is there an expected volt reading at the pigtail?)

So the truck fired up cold pretty quick, without starting fluid.

Good news - massive oil leak is fixed!

Bad news - I let it run for 15 minutes to get hot... And the no-start continues. I get 200, 210, 220 MAX on the ICP, and that takes a solid 8-10 seconds of cranking.

So I think we might be back where we started... injector o-rings? Even though I pulled valve covers and there were no obvious leaks, I gather there can be non-visible leaks? I think we've run out of other options?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Follow up for posterity...

This will likely surprise no one, massive and regular o-ring failure across virtually all injectors:






I bought what is supposedly the OEM brand o-rings from Riff Raff, its all back together and running, need to get it on the road and put some miles on it to make sure its fixed.
 

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Thanks for the update. Too often we try to help people and never get closure for someone's issue. Posting your fix will help others in the future as well as help the group in analysis of how we work through problems. I'm sure you will be running great again cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
To your point - when I was trying to diagnose this I came across a lot of unresolved threads, which is rather unhelpful, so I figured the least I could do to "give back" was to close the loop on this.

For anyone wondering, injectors is a medium-hard job, definitely need some experience and good mechanical inclination. Took me probably 8-10 hours across 2 days, not working in any particular hurry.

Maybe a 3/5 on the difficulty scale?

Pro tip: Get a helper and take off the hood, takes 3 minutes to remove and 10 to put back, you'll thank yourself. (make sure to mark the location of the hinges with a sharpie before removal). Its not necessary but makes it a lot easier to get to the valve cover bolts and injectors buried under the cowl.
 

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Injector o-ring failure of that top o-ring is pretty common. A big contributing cause is the sharp edge on the steel backup ring. I like to take a needle file and knock the sharp corners off the steel rings before installing. Might help get another year or two out of the o-rings before they fail at that point.

Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the followup. (y)

Injector o-ring replacement is generally a 6-8 hour job. At least it was for me the last time I did that. Probably a lot longer now that I've gotten older. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Injector o-ring failure of that top o-ring is pretty common. A big contributing cause is the sharp edge on the steel backup ring. I like to take a needle file and knock the sharp corners off the steel rings before installing. Might help get another year or two out of the o-rings before they fail at that point.

Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the followup. (y)

Injector o-ring replacement is generally a 6-8 hour job. At least it was for me the last time I did that. Probably a lot longer now that I've gotten older. :confused:
Good advice on the steel ring, I'll go back in time and hit the corners with a fine file :)

It may have been closer to 8 hours for me... I wasn't really tracking... Anyway I think we can agree its 8 +/- depending on speed, abilities, and, of course, age :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well I think its fixed...

I got it out of the driveway and drove it a bit this weekend. Was idling rough at first but I hear thats normal, after some stop and go around downtown and some heavy throttle getting on the freeway it seems to be running well. Aaaand, most important, it actually starts when hot :)
 

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Cool!
You should be good to go for quite a while. (y)
 
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