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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had this reoccurring problem last year with the threads on the fuel bowl lid breaking causing fuel bowl lid to jump up a thread or so. This causes the rubber oring-gasket to pop out and it leaks diesel out the top. I changed fuel bowl last year and it stopped the problem. Now it is doing it again tried several different lids but to no solution. I didn't have this issue start happening until I got my truck out of the shop about two months ago. Changed lids several different times and it still blows the lid up a thread or two causing it to leak. Upon getting the truck out of the shop it had a surge in idle until it warmed up. Changed fpr and surge went away.
 

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Did these replacement lids include an OEM? These are Not throw away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I replaced with a motorcraft a few times and then a wix a couple. I had this problem last year until I switched to a lid that had a nut on top and changed the fuel bowl. When it was in the shop a couple months ago they replaced the lid that wasn't failing with lid type that uses a wrench. This started the issue all over again. The threads on the lid break in a small area and it jumps up enough to have gasket pop out spraying diesel. Changed to a wix last week and it'll be good for a bit( a few days to a week) then will jump again. Once it jumps threads it's no longer usable. I can clean the threads of the stripped part that is damaged on the threads but will just keep jumping threads.
The shop said 4 injectors failed a buzz test so I went ahead and replaced all 8. They also changed fuel pump and fuel bowl lid. It didn't have a surge when cold but had one when I got it back. I changed fpr hoping to fix the surge and the fuel bowl lid but it only fixed the surge.
 

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I would suggest getting a fuel pressure gauge on it. I have seen more than one person hang the spring in the FPR causing pressures to be in the 100+ range instead of the normal 60 psi.
 

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I agree with RT, knowing your fuel pressure is critical. It seems that you are all over the spectrum about fuel filters and tops adding an unnecessary diagnostic exercise. Go get a new stock OEM filter assembly top, less than 30 bucks and get a Raycor 4596 (same as OEM) fuel filter element and stick with stock filtration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I ended up checking fuel pressure from the port by the fpr. KOEO had 85psi under idle it would start dropping,then rise would almost run up into the upper 90s almost 100. Might of even hit 100 if I wouldn't have killed it. Ended up cutting a coil and half off spring in fpr. It is now idling at 65 and not blowing the lid. Is this a viable solution to the issue or putting a bandaid on a different issue. So far it hasn't had any more issues.🤞
 
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