[iwantaturbo]

it works great but some times it just does not blow cold? most of the time it does this when im idleing? most of the time if i get on the gas real hard it will start blowing cold again?

hot out side
motor temp normal
feon good.
no leaks
no bad noises

just does not blow cold some times? only does it at idle or slow speeds?

what is wrong with it?

 

[mitley_350]

Iwantaturbo,

You are not alone. Mine does the same while idling. I beleive it was discussed a couple years ago by Hutch and some others that a small amount of hot coolant is always running through the heater core, and it is more pronounced when you are idling. I think a few sponsors sell a valve to stop the flow going through the heater core. You may try Riley Enterprises as I think I seen it there.

Tim

 

[kwazyca]

Look here

Unfortunately they are currently out of stock.

There is a home grown version. There is a thread going on it right now.

Tom

 

[iwantaturbo]

i have one of them right now that im going to put on my 96.

i might get one for this truck too?

but i think the pump is kicking off but have not checked yet? it smells diffrent when the pump is off and im getting that smell so i think the pump is kicking off and does not come back on till i get on the gas?

 

[nastynotchback1]

low freon,bad clutch fan,clogged condensor.these can all cause the problem you have.

 

[TruckerDon]

On mine, it was the clutch. Pop the hood, and turn the A/C on high. The center part of the compressor should be cycling on and off every minute or so. If it's not, the clutch is worn. I could stop the engine and turn the key back on. When I tapped the clutch, it'd click in. Also, when mine did this, I was able to rev it a bit, and the clutch would catch, but it wouldn't re-engage when the time came. The quick fix was to remove the 8mm bolt in the middle of the pulley, pull the front plate, and remove the washer behind the plate. Mine works now, but I'm about to put a clutch on it. I just need it to make it through the next 2 weeks, when I'll have time to put a new clutch on.

Don.

 

[bansheeman1]

[ QUOTE ]
On mine, it was the clutch. Pop the hood, and turn the A/C on high. The center part of the compressor should be cycling on and off every minute or so. If it's not, the clutch is worn. I could stop the engine and turn the key back on. When I tapped the clutch, it'd click in. Also, when mine did this, I was able to rev it a bit, and the clutch would catch, but it wouldn't re-engage when the time came. The quick fix was to remove the 8mm bolt in the middle of the pulley, pull the front plate, and remove the washer behind the plate. Mine works now, but I'm about to put a clutch on it. I just need it to make it through the next 2 weeks, when I'll have time to put a new clutch on.

Don.

[/ QUOTE ]
mine hade the same problem hade to get on it hard to kick the air back on
i just replaced the outer part of the clutch (25.00)
it works like a champ now

 

[iwantaturbo]

thanks guys!!!! im going on a real long trip next week so ill get it fixed now!!!

 

[awayne]

I am having the same problem with my clutch... I called my guy at ford and he said the clutch is $106... What is a cheaper way to fix it? Also, where did you find the part for $25 to replace just the outer part?

 

[iwantaturbo]

i took out the washer and it now works great!!!! but my clutch is hurting!!!! where can i get one for $25?

thanks again guys!!! i just took a 3600 mile trip and would have died with out the washer mod!!!!

 

[Down South]

It's been a while since I fooled with one of these but if my memory serves me correct the washer is a shim. I'm thinking on other clutch assemblies that I've changed before that the assembly came with several different thickness washers or shims. This was so that the gap for the clutch could be set right. If the gap is too far then sometimes the clutch won't kick in. The reason is it's just to far away from the magnetic coil when it energizes. If you removed the washer then you may need to install a thinner one. You will need enough clearance that the pulley will turn free without touching the clutch when it's not engaged. I forget the exact clearance you should have. If you could find a shim (washer) just a little thinner than the one you removed you would probably be all right.

On edit, The clutch plates wear down over time and need to be reshimmed. If the coil is still good then a thinner shim should be all you need and is just due to normal wear.

 

[RobertJohn]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif
When I mash the throttle mine will sometimes stop blowing cold and blow warm air.. Is this a vacuum leak, low freon, or what ?? After I'm up to speed it blows cold again...
Thanks..

 

[RHale]

Had similar symptoms with mine, turned out to be the wiring harness had an intermittent open circuit, replaced harness and been working fine.

 

[awayne]

Mine will start to blow warm as I'm driving highway speeds. I had idling for about 15 min or so and when I jumped back in it was blowing hot air. Popped the hood and tapped the clutch plate and it clicked right in and started to blow cold again. Should I try replacing the shim/washer and see if that fixes it? I really don't want to have to spend over $100 to fix this if I can.

 

[iwantaturbo]

i took the washer out and drove 3200 miles over the next week and ac was on 100% of the time and it worked great!!!!

 

[Kwikkordead]

[ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif
When I mash the throttle mine will sometimes stop blowing cold and blow warm air.. Is this a vacuum leak, low freon, or what ?? After I'm up to speed it blows cold again...
Thanks..

[/ QUOTE ] I think the AC is commanded off at full throttle to unload the engine. Mine does the same thing when I am pulling the trailer up a steep grade. Soon as I back out of it the AC comes back on.

 

[ThunderCat]

I had this same problem, talked to ford and they had no idea what could be wrong /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif took it to AAMCO because they had a free AC check and they could not find anything wrong. So, I finally took it to an AC shop a friend suggested and $10 bucks later the AC worked again. As stated above, all they did was de-shimm the clutch. i.e. they removed the washer. I wish I would have known this before taking the truck all over. It would have been a 5 minute job. I have had the clutch de-shimmed for a while now and no problems. That is what is great about this site, finding those hard to find answers to problems like this...whish I had found this site a year ago.