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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know what WVO stands for but what does SVO mean?

B-100 is when you're running 100% boidiesel, right? So a 50/50 mix could be called B-50?

This is from a post by FN74:
"I simply dump the oil in the top 30 gallons at a time, let it heat and settle for a few days, then open the valve into the bucket, where it is then pumped through the donaldson and into the 175gl holding tank."

I thought the wvo needed to be heated first to ease filtering. So if it's heated, then let sit, it's thick again going through the filter, right?

On de-watering: I understand with the hot water tank method of heating the wvo, you open a valve to "exhaust" any water vapors that are extracted during heating. And if you made your own heating tank out of a barrel, you can take the lid off to allow water to evaporate out. Makes sense to me that having a large open lid will let more water out than a small valve. Is this correct, or do both methods work about the same?

Thanks for any input.
 

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straight veg oil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
if bio is mixed with dino yes it is b50
yes a closed tank will not let water out easy you can add vacum to pull the water out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 

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FN has his set up so that it automaticaly heats and cools, so the oil is usually at 120* or so, it is also at this temp when it is filtered, thats how I took it when I read about his filtering set up.

The water settles to the bottom, not evaporats off, it doesn't get that hot. this is why you have to take the oil from about 10" above the bottom, not the very bottom of the barrel. and you have to reguarly clean the settling barrel, to get rid of the water and gross stuff that settles out.

glad to see your down here Jim, new people are always great for the "green fuel" front.
Diesel Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, SVO means you have a seperate tank and switch to running Straight Veggie Oil after warm-up, then switch back to purge? I think I'm getting it...

The crap at the bottom of the tank, I'm thinking, is the better reason to not go with a HW tank and just make my own heating tank.

Diesel Rod, been here for about a month. Things are getting pretty expensive on the High Performance front. This ******* just doesn't have the funds to keep up with what's going on, and this Veggie Oil stuff seems to be what I need to the gears turning in my head, AND still gets me to work on my truck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

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DZLJIM

Thats how I feel right now too, plus Im looking for a new challenge wothout having to shell out 3K for another 90hp LOL

Not saying I wont in a month or so either /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif


I just find this bio-diesel thing very interesting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yup. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I have 3 diesel pickups: 1 for work (F-350 dually 4x4), 1 for play (The Black truck) and 1 for running around (F-250 2wd) that gets 18-20 mpg. The work truck soaks up about 40 gallons a week.
Looking to cut some costs on that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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Jim, fuel for your fire here.

I filled up my rear tank, and topped of the front tank, cost me 40 bucks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

I run the WVO in a diesel/WVO mix right now, in the front tank. no heating, yet. pure #2 in the rear tank. I will need to heat before I can run pure WVO. that will be done by this winter.

so two full tanks for $40.


Diesel Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was thinking on buying #2 in bulk and keep at home. Then, once WVO gets doubly filtered, pump it into a tank, and #2 into the same tank to get a good idea on the % mixture, then mix them in the tank to get a good mix.
Is this necessary if you're just dumping it all into a tank and running it?
Probably makes sense for me, though, to do this, so then I just wheel the mixed tank to whichever truck is low and fill'er up.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I know what WVO stands for but what does SVO mean?

[/ QUOTE ]

SVO would assume raw unused vegitable oil, typically used in developing countries to run industrial machinery. Hardly anyone does that here because the waste vegitable oil is so available.

[ QUOTE ]

This is from a post by FN74:
"I simply dump the oil in the top 30 gallons at a time, let it heat and settle for a few days, then open the valve into the bucket, where it is then pumped through the donaldson and into the 175gl holding tank."

I thought the wvo needed to be heated first to ease filtering. So if it's heated, then let sit, it's thick again going through the filter, right?

[/ QUOTE ]
Since the heating setup has a temperature switch and it takes some hours to bring it up to temperature, you tend to leave it at temperature for a bit. When you start draining and filtering it is all one continuous process.

FN74 dumps the oil hot though the air filter and then he pumps it from the collection drum a little distance to the fuel filter that is mounted out in open air and then onto his collection tank. He has mentioned that he gets about 200 gallons to the final filter. In my case I have gone beyond that for the final filter, I can see where the filter doesn’t flow right away but when it warms up in the incoming oil to the collection drum it then starts flowing, so there are accumulated fats or something that needs to be melted first.

We both do about 30 gallon batches which leads to the question of when the filters would really clog if it was one continuous run. There are lot’s of variables in handling WVO that’s why this forum is valuable both to hear what works and what does not work.



[ QUOTE ]

On de-watering: I understand with the hot water tank method of heating the wvo, you open a valve to "exhaust" any water vapors that are extracted during heating. And if you made your own heating tank out of a barrel, you can take the lid off to allow water to evaporate out. Makes sense to me that having a large open lid will let more water out than a small valve. Is this correct, or do both methods work about the same?

Thanks for any input.

[/ QUOTE ]

Dewatering really depends on where you get your oil, if it's a high turn over location or going directly from the fryer to the container then there's rarely a problem. It’s very easy to heat a quart of it to see if you have a problem with your source.

Yes having a large barrel lid could help dewater the oil, I have also heard about spraying the oil against the side to help evaporate any water.

I advanced the water heater method as a path to also doing an apple seed biodiesel processor at some point, also with a barrel it requires a little more mechanical ability to cut the holes and weld in the heater, temperature switch, etc. With the water heater all you need is fittings and a pipe wrench!

While I have a welder I mostly just tack things together at my skill level, (real ugly welds /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif) I would really worry about welding something up that actually had to hold a fluid LOL!
 
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