ac not really cold
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
Install a heater bypass valve on the heater hoses. Turns off the hot water going to the heater core.
The factory path is for the air to go across both the AC coils AND the heater coils before blowing out the vents. Turning off the heat makes hte AC colder.
Dieselsite.com sells a kit, or you can make your own out of a ranger/Explorer bypass valve.
The part numbers I have are:
97 Ford Explorer V-6
AC-Delco: 15-5829
FoMoCo: F87z-18495-AA VALVE
Auto-Zone: 4-season part number 74809.
I just bought one today. about 16 bucks.
You'll need some 1/8" vacuum tubing, and some "T"'s and the rubber fittings.
There are a couple of ways you can hook it up. One is to just tap right into the vacuum line in the engine bay. Its always "ON" tho and you'd need one of those electic/vacuum switches to turn the valve on and off via a switch.
Others have tied into the vacuum lines under the dash so that it only turns on when switched to MAX-AC.
The factory path is for the air to go across both the AC coils AND the heater coils before blowing out the vents. Turning off the heat makes hte AC colder.
Dieselsite.com sells a kit, or you can make your own out of a ranger/Explorer bypass valve.
The part numbers I have are:
97 Ford Explorer V-6
AC-Delco: 15-5829
FoMoCo: F87z-18495-AA VALVE
Auto-Zone: 4-season part number 74809.
I just bought one today. about 16 bucks.
You'll need some 1/8" vacuum tubing, and some "T"'s and the rubber fittings.
There are a couple of ways you can hook it up. One is to just tap right into the vacuum line in the engine bay. Its always "ON" tho and you'd need one of those electic/vacuum switches to turn the valve on and off via a switch.
Others have tied into the vacuum lines under the dash so that it only turns on when switched to MAX-AC.
[ QUOTE ]
The factory path is for the air to go across both the AC coils AND the heater coils before blowing out the vents.
[/ QUOTE ]
That is not completely correct. Air flow is always thru the AC evap coil, to provide dry(er) air for bi-level and defrost. The blend door controls the amount of air flow across the heater coil. When the Temp control is full CCW, and if the blend door works/seals correctly, there is no mixing (or additional heating) of the air flow.
The factory path is for the air to go across both the AC coils AND the heater coils before blowing out the vents.
[/ QUOTE ]
That is not completely correct. Air flow is always thru the AC evap coil, to provide dry(er) air for bi-level and defrost. The blend door controls the amount of air flow across the heater coil. When the Temp control is full CCW, and if the blend door works/seals correctly, there is no mixing (or additional heating) of the air flow.
Joined
·
847 Posts
I like the one bob sells but how does to mount to the truck?
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
Im not 100% sure, but I *think* the one bob sells is a CUT-OFF and not a true bypass. The picture kinda sucks, but it looks like it only has one inlet/outlet.
The ranger/explorer is a true bypass and allows the coolant to still flow back to the waterpump, which the one on Bob's site does not look like it can do. (Again, Im going off the picture, if anyone has one, chime in).
You just cut the heater hose on the back left of the engine compartment and stuff the bypass in. The hoses hold it in place. Run your vacuum line and your done.
Took me longer to flush my tranny yesterday than it did to install the bypass. (did that yesterday too).
The ranger/explorer is a true bypass and allows the coolant to still flow back to the waterpump, which the one on Bob's site does not look like it can do. (Again, Im going off the picture, if anyone has one, chime in).
You just cut the heater hose on the back left of the engine compartment and stuff the bypass in. The hoses hold it in place. Run your vacuum line and your done.
Took me longer to flush my tranny yesterday than it did to install the bypass. (did that yesterday too).
Joined
·
847 Posts
Which one is better?
Joined
·
526 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
i also notice that if i leave the a/c on and the truck running, after about 5 min there is a pretty good about of water on the ground from the a/c dripping
[/ QUOTE ]
That's a good thing it's doing its job......if there is no water dripping then I'd look to see if the drain tube is clogged. Your evaporator is removing the moisture from the cabin air.
So your ok.....C-man
i also notice that if i leave the a/c on and the truck running, after about 5 min there is a pretty good about of water on the ground from the a/c dripping
[/ QUOTE ]
That's a good thing it's doing its job......if there is no water dripping then I'd look to see if the drain tube is clogged. Your evaporator is removing the moisture from the cabin air.
So your ok.....C-man
[ QUOTE ]
While driving down the highway I have great a/c but pulling through a Burger King and then in town traffic the air isn't cold.
Someone told me this is what diesels do, is this right or do I have a problem?
[/ QUOTE ]
Mine stays cold driving in town, or even sitting still. Not AS cold as when driving down the highway, but living in Florida it does just fine even when sitting still. It does even better since I added the Dieselsite AC control valve.
Mike
While driving down the highway I have great a/c but pulling through a Burger King and then in town traffic the air isn't cold.
Someone told me this is what diesels do, is this right or do I have a problem?
[/ QUOTE ]
Mine stays cold driving in town, or even sitting still. Not AS cold as when driving down the highway, but living in Florida it does just fine even when sitting still. It does even better since I added the Dieselsite AC control valve.
Mike
Joined
·
526 Posts
Keep in mind that the condesor head pressure and heat rejection depend on air flow. So if your cruising down the road you have optimum heat rejection if your pulled up to a building @ burger....something then air flow is minimal and so is heat rejection.
Auto A/C units are rated at about a 5 ton unit I think (don't whup up on me fer gussing) so they are rated to do the job but air flow does impact the interior cooling.
Best way to know is to use a set of guages and look at both hi & lo head pressures if in specs great. Then look at condenser. Some folks here in Texas have them full of straw and grass....hey man I live in rice country.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif so sounds like your A/C units are working ok...C-man
Auto A/C units are rated at about a 5 ton unit I think (don't whup up on me fer gussing) so they are rated to do the job but air flow does impact the interior cooling.
Best way to know is to use a set of guages and look at both hi & lo head pressures if in specs great. Then look at condenser. Some folks here in Texas have them full of straw and grass....hey man I live in rice country.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif so sounds like your A/C units are working ok...C-man
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
Which one is better?
[/ QUOTE ]
A full bypass -vs- a shut off valve?
I dont know.
A shut off valve would dead head the coolant lines coming out of the engine block, where as a bypass would still allow the coolant to cycle back to the waterpump.
I dont know how much effect just deadheading the heater line has on the engine. Most likely none, but shrug. ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Which one is better?
[/ QUOTE ]
A full bypass -vs- a shut off valve?
I dont know.
A shut off valve would dead head the coolant lines coming out of the engine block, where as a bypass would still allow the coolant to cycle back to the waterpump.
I dont know how much effect just deadheading the heater line has on the engine. Most likely none, but shrug. ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Joined
·
4,150 Posts
Bob's just has a vacuum by-pass. I have one and it works pretty well. The AC after half an hour at highway speeds will freeze you out in a big way. I can also leave my truck idling on a 90 degree day and come back to a COLD cab.
The only trouble I had installing, was passing the vacuum line through the fire wall. It is a "blind" process, and I couldn't find my fish tape. I ended up using a different (unused plug 3" lower) than what was suggested in the instructions. Took me 2 hours to install the vac line. Next time it would take 20 minutes for the entire job.
The only trouble I had installing, was passing the vacuum line through the fire wall. It is a "blind" process, and I couldn't find my fish tape. I ended up using a different (unused plug 3" lower) than what was suggested in the instructions. Took me 2 hours to install the vac line. Next time it would take 20 minutes for the entire job.
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
Bob's just has a vacuum by-pass. I have one and it works pretty well.
[/ QUOTE ]
So his does have 4 ports then? I couldnt tell from the picture. It looked like it only had two. If it has 4, then its a bypass, if it has 2, then its a vacuum actuated shut-off valve.
Bob's just has a vacuum by-pass. I have one and it works pretty well.
[/ QUOTE ]
So his does have 4 ports then? I couldnt tell from the picture. It looked like it only had two. If it has 4, then its a bypass, if it has 2, then its a vacuum actuated shut-off valve.
i just installed an in line 3/4" ball valve in one of the heater hoses. I shut it off in the summer, back on in the fall. Been that way for about 3 years, no problems. AC sure gets <font color="blue">COLD </font>. The vent works well with the hot water shut off also. The vent temp is actually the ambient air temp, not warmed up 10-20 degrees.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
