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I've really not been a believer in these, but I've had quite a few diesel professionals advise me to get one. So, I'm going to pull the trigger and order one but am thoroughly lost on which one. I've looked at S&B, aFe, K&N, plus a few others, and all make the same claims and show graphs and charts. I'm leaning toward S&B or aFe. Can anyone shed some light on 'actual' fuel economy increases, power, lower gauge readings?
 

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Unless you are going to seriously increase your HP and the need for more air and fuel into the engine, the aftermarket intakes aren't required or needed.But, if you go with one, go with a paper filter setup as the K&N style allows too much dust and silica to enter the turbo and engine.
 

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Good morning, and thanks for the replies. I have already substantially improved hp, torque, and suspension to pull a heavy trailer. So, the next logical step would a CAI. Did you personally notice any difference after you added the S & B?
 

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Maybe it's just in my head, but I thought it ran just a bit nicer. The stock filter was just a little dirty though. Hand calculating mileage at the pump it just barely came up, but I only drove it a week before I added a tuner. That's when I picked up 2 mpg.
 

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BTW, I chose the "dry" replaceable filter kit, same price as oiled.

A lot of guys recommended the NAPA 6637 or whatever do it yourself route. For function and neatness I just didn't like that.

Mine is a 7.3 so as always, YMMV.
 

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Thanks, buck.
 

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One thing I see a lot is air being drawn in from the engine compartment. I would question is this really COLD AIR??? Warm air drawn from the engine compartment will be less dense and contain less O2 then cooler air drawn from outside the engine compartment. So if you want a true COLD AIR intake I would look for one that draws air from outside the engine compartment.
DENNY
 

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I have a 2013 F350 deleted. I had to take my truck in and the guy recommended a cold air intake as well. I went with the S&B. i havent really noticed a difference but the reason I got it was the increase in air flow from the delete. From the research the S&B is the best for our trucks. Hope that helps.
 

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One thing I see a lot is air being drawn in from the engine compartment. I would question is this really COLD AIR??? Warm air drawn from the engine compartment will be less dense and contain less O2 then cooler air drawn from outside the engine compartment. So if you want a true COLD AIR intake I would look for one that draws air from outside the engine compartment.
My thoughts as well, the majority of air in the engine bay while rolling has come through the radiator, condenser, intercooler.
These thoughts are somewhat correct. While sitting still in traffic the above do apply. One will see a significant rise in IAT as provided by the MAF and CAC Temp sensor. Now what people don't realize is that once at sustained speeds over 20MPH continuous the airflow is flushing the engine bay. That air isn't heated above OAT. So the intake will not pull in air "hotter" than OAT.

For the record I have a NL Stage 2, MidWest piping kit, NL Intercooler, using SCT X4 tuning. I use a CTS2 for PIDs, EGT, and added a Edge Boost sensor with Edge IAT sensor in the post intercooler pipe from MidWest. I see anywhere from 15-25* over OAT when comparing OAT to MAF IAT to Edge IAT readings. Of course the post intercooler temps are subject to how much Boost PSI is being sustained. Long HWY speeds sustained with less than 5PSI Boost show the best results. Climbing up a hill with Boost PSI higher and sustained will cause the post-intercooler IAT to rise up and increase the delta between OAT and post intercooler IAT. Most of this data has been over the last few months. As summer comes on I'll be able to share what 90+*F temps do. As of yesterday I was seeing 90*+ OAT, running around town the post intercooler IAT was 115* +/- as I drove at speed and stop light traffic never exceeding 50+MPH.

Back in February when I got the sensors all done. Speed 60 MPH, OAT=57*F, IAT (MAF)=59*F, IAT (post inter-cooler)=78.9*F


 

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I will do that for sure. I wish someone who was completely stock would join in with info from a CTS2. The PIDs are there to be used showing the referenced temps in the same locations per se. This way we can "see" what's happening in stock form.

I'm not sure if the stock EGR operation would show any effect as I believe the EGR flow is post inter-cooler IAT sensor location. I would like to be able to show a secondary positive reason for those willing to do an EGR delete.
 

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Technically the stock air filter housing already is a "cold air" set up as it does not draw air from the engine compartment for the main filter. A 2012 Super Duty for example draws air from behind the right headlamp and fender area. I personally don't see any need or for or real benefit from this modification on a turbocharged, charge air cooled engine. As mentioned however a heavily modified engine is a different story. There's a lot of people getting rich selling you people a lot of shiny add on's and crap you and your engine don't need or will never be able to utilize as advertised.

*Now if you REALLY want to increase airflow just get a 2" hole saw and drill two holes in the air filter lid but make sure to remove the lid from the filter housing first cause you don't want to get any debris in your engine. Right? ;)

Believe it or not I have seen this.


*Do not do this as it will cause unfiltered air to enter your engine and cause wear and or damage.
 

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Technically the stock air filter housing already is a "cold air" set up as it does not draw air from the engine compartment for the main filter. A 2012 Super Duty for example draws air from behind the right headlamp and fender area. I personally don't see any need or for or real benefit from this modification on a turbocharged, charge air cooled engine. As mentioned however a heavily modified engine is a different story. There's a lot of people getting rich selling you people a lot of shiny add on's and crap you and your engine don't need or will never be able to utilize as advertised.

*Now if you REALLY want to increase airflow just get a 2" hole saw and drill two holes in the air filter lid but make sure to remove the lid from the filter housing first cause you don't want to get any debris in your engine. Right? <img src="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

Believe it or not I have seen this.


*Do not do this as it will cause unfiltered air to enter your engine and cause wear and or damage.
Ford_Doctor is right. There's a sucker born every minute.

All the additives, stabilizers, cetane boosters, cold air intakes, etc are snake oil.

FLAME ON!
Is that what Ford_Doctor just said? :grin2:
 

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I GOT YOUR FIRE FOR YA!!

Like every thing in life the answer is IT DEPENDS!! For the most part cetane boosters are not needed but in the past some parts of the country had issues with low centane (wisconsin area was one if I remember right). Additives like anti-gel are great to have around in the fall or if you get a unexpected cold snap 30-40 degrees lower then normal temps in the winter. Remember fuel is blended for the temps your area is expected to see, a truck filled in Aug may jell in November. Real cold air intakes work ask any pilot (carb heat decreases RPM by 100 or more). Non of my Diesel fuel sits long enough for a stabilizer but the mogas does, I use Sta-bul for all my gas engines that sit for 7 mo over the winter. For the most part I just fill and go but I keep some snake oil handy for appropriate times or emergencies.

I think most of the effects seen from the COLD AIR intakes are simply from improved airflow. The HP numbers are usually noted at redline and how many of us run at redline all day long?


Heavy Assault
That is the type of solid information we need!! Please do post the info after the summer.
 

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No, that's not what he said. I am wrong to infer what anybody says. I apologize for that.

I failed to add the smiley emoticon to indicate I was playing along. :winking:

I like the additive debates because there is no definitive answer and solid arguments have been presented for all sides.

I hope Spring has arrived up your way.
 

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How do you do that emoticon thing I was looking for it,
DENNY
 

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I like the additive debates because there is no definitive answer and solid arguments have been presented for all sides.
Like every thing in life the answer is IT DEPENDS!!

To add to this: It does depend. If you don't use any additives then you never know what will happen. If you use only ONE specific brand then you will never know what happens when using any other brand.

All this even applies to the fuel station you select. If you just use one brand (Shell, BP, etc etc) you never know what may happen using another brand (Murphy, QT, WaWa, etc etc). Yes, one does need to weight the fuel quality provided by the station. I'm not saying use known bad fuel stations "just to see what happens".

I will say this in my area of travels I have used quite a few different brands of fuel. Pretty consistent results tell me where to refuel. When you get fuel from a previously "unknown" source and your MPG jumps 1-2MPG you start asking yourself questions. I'm fairly convinced as a Wal-Mart/Murphy station I use has something "in the mix" that gives me awesome fuel numbers. I'm testing the stations in my local area to see what happens. I may even make it a point to try using Murphy on my next trip South just to see if the gains are held up. There is a station a ways away from me that uses 50+Cetane diesel. I haven't been able to get there for a test run so that may happen over the next few months.

Not trying to change this to a MPG post but people need to get out of the singular mindsets of the past. Embrace the options, see what happens.
 
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