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Discussion Starter #1
I’m currently rebuilding the old full length running boards on my truck. They were bent down slightly and I’ve had my foot slip off of the plastic running board a time or two when wet. In 2018 when I pulled the bed and did a bunch of work to the truck I noticed rust where the brackets bolt on with the M8-1.25 bolts and U-nuts but you have to stop somewhere so I painted around them. Now I’m getting back on it to finish it up.
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
That was the worst of the rust, treated it for now with OSPHO and Majic Tractor Paint but may cut it out later down the road and TIG Weld in patch panels.
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Discussion Starter #3
Years of stepping up on the running boards had them slightly bent down and with being a bit on the large size o_O I decided to weld gussets in the inside corners of the brackets once brought back to square.
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3/4” pipe was just the right size after grinding and slightly beveling the edges to fit into the stamped out Ford brackets. I went to a little longer length of pipe with the ends cut on a 45 but not interfering with the bolt up to the truck or bolting on the steel running board tray. Before welding I drilled a drain hole in the corner of the brackets as once the gussets (pipe) are welded in it would catch and hold water otherwise.
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Discussion Starter #5
Welded in the gussets. I have to remove some more rust, degrease, and paint. Bought new bolts and U-nuts. I’ll follow up some pictures when bolting on the truck later next week, Big Horn
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Nice looking welds (y)
 

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Agreed. Nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finished up painting today, now just needs to cure a few days.
I have done some considerable research on the addition of LED’s. They can lead to unwanted problems so I’m not making any recommendations for their use, just a journal of the mods I’ll be making to my truck. I don’t care for the LED light strips offered on the market that form one continuous blur, but there are some DIY videos on YouTube in which marker lights were spaced out along the running boards and I do like this look very much. I have tested my LED’s off the trailer wiring circuit (which is probably where the supply power will stay as it is a separate circuit from the rest of the truck. I am going to utilize the old running boards and will be running two separate circuits and alternating LED’s, amber LED running lights/turn signals- and white LED courtesy lights which I plan to power off a relay and turn on by the dome light circuit for seeing the running boards at night. Both the amber and white LED’s have the smoked gray lens and look the same which was important to me for how they looked in the daytime.
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Here’s a diagram of what I’ve figured out so far and have tested, checking the intensity of the LED’s, flash mode with turn signals, and verifying that they do not hyper flash.
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I set up my running boards with pieces of red electrical tape and marked off the spacing for the LED’s. 8 ambers and 7 white, with holes spacing 5-1/8” apart which puts the ambers running lights and white courtesy lights on 10-1/4” centers.

After marking the distance of the hole centers I set up my laser to keep the lights as straight as possible.
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Before I started drilling holes, I wanted to check the fit of the grommets on a similar radius to that on the back side of the running boards. A 3lb. coffee can was almost the same.

Drilled holes, and cleaned up the plastic burrs from the hole saw. A small nail heated to red hot served as a hot knife, with very light pressure so as not to gouge, and took off the large burring on the backside, then some wet/dry sand paper.
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Discussion Starter #14
Here’s the two LED’s, amber and white, side by side with the smoked lens.

And I went ahead and popped one in, blends in very nice with the black plastic. I bought a product that is suppose to rejuvenate the plastic and bring back its original luster so I guess that’s next.
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
And, remember my earlier comments..... LED’s can do funny things- well I noticed I have an ABS light, Maybe it’s coincidence, I’ll have to pull my ABS code(s) and see what the trouble code is that set the light. With Diodes preventing voltage back feed and nothing on the four trailer wires (brown, yellow, green, white) to do with brakes it would surprise me....but more to keep me busy :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update..... I didn’t even realize it was a possibility but it appears I threw an ABS light due to a low voltage situation.
Probably overkill but the other day I kept turning key power off before changing out LED’s, diodes, and resistors, and then ignition power back on again for turn signal pulse, and of course ran the batteries down to 10V, which I noticed after LED’s became dim and wouldn’t flash anymore. And of course truck wouldn’t start. Charged batteries to full, then isolated and disconnected. This morning hooked up, truck started like a champ but ABS light still there. Left driveway and within 100’ ABS reset itself and light off. I found an old thread yesterday on the web about low voltage triggering an ABS light. I guess if I have more circuits to check I should disconnect the GPR so I’m not sucking the juice out of the batteries 👍
 

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Excellent write up beautiful truck!!!
DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got the plastic running boards treated with the solution finish and and checked my steel parts. I’ve had trouble with rustoleum in the past, and while I’m sure it’s not recommended, I added Majic paint hardener to the Rustoleum....... never had it cure so hard and a nice glossy finish. Loosely fitted the parts.

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Sat the plastic running boards in place, nothing bolted yet as I’m waiting on my new T-bolts for the steel tray. And a view from the underneath of the truck showing there’s room to get to the LED’s for wiring.

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
The T-bolts I ordered (15$ for 20 ea.- through a home improvement big box store finally arrived. They were advertised as being good for high torque applications and would not strip form heavy torque. Well, they were dead soft, barely applied any torque and the threads were breaking off and T-heads were snapping loose from the threaded studs :mad:. The store is refunding my money. I’ll give you two guesses where they were manufactured, but your only gonna need one.

I bought 1/4-20 grade 8 hex head bolts (which are a little larger in diameter than what Ford used but still fit the holes) and 5/16 flat washers. Then on the vice, bent a 90* lip on the flat washers which locked the bolt heads into the channels and kept them from spinning.

The original flange nuts on the plastic studs molded into the bottom of the plastic steps are not SAE or Metric and must be some type of self threading fastener (?) but a 5/16-18 die ran down the plastic stud by hand scored a threaded pattern and now the 5/16 nuts go on smoothly with a tight grip.
Hope to start wiring Monday (my weekend)

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