Advice needed on removing some Centurion accessaries

1705 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Racer_X, Jun 13, 2006

robertw

Discussion Starter · Jun 10, 2006

I recently bought a 1994.5 Crewcab dually Centurion Conversion. It has stainless grab rails with marker lights installed behind each door. I want to remove both the grab rails and the marker lights. I was quoted $900.00 by a body shop to remove them, weld up the holes and repaint the area. That is a lot of money. I am considering just using bondo and touch up paint in an attemp to do this cheaper but I am worried about the outcome as the truck is in immaculate condion with only 72K miles on it. Has anyone removed grab rails and or marker lights from their truck? How did you do it and what was the outcome like from a cosmetic standpoint?

Save

1 - 3 of 11 Posts

Racer_X

· #7 · Jun 12, 2006

[ QUOTE ]
I have used JB Weld to fill holes many times & painted over it with no problems. Never had it crack or fail & it doesn't damage surrounding paint or warp the panels. Just dimple the hole slightly & tape over the back if accessable.

[/ QUOTE ]

I need to do the same repair as pete pete. Both front and back fiberglass was on on mine. Is your JB weld on the hood or roof? Concerned about heat and expansion/contraction up there. The other option is lead. I have fiddled with it before. It works great, but you must neutralize the acid after tinning or rust will form under paint. Without access to the back of the repair to repaint etc. there will be some rust with weld or lead.

Save

Racer_X

· #9 · Jun 13, 2006

5/16 some big holes for a filler type stuff to hold under vibration. Maybe it's the bonding strength to both sides of the metal. Heard it used here to fix fuel filter housings. Plenty of vibration sitting on top of a diesel /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Thumbs down on it being tough enough to tap threads into like metal.

See less See more

Save

Racer_X

· #11 · Jun 13, 2006

Right, warp is a concern on the roof. There so thin a cat will dent them jumping down a couple feet from a loft. My repair will be #12 self tapping screw holes. They pull the sheet metal up tapping in. So you have to work it back down without causeing another dent to hide the repair/fill. Any heat like weld or lead burns the paint off the backside so rust can begin. In my case fire with a headliner in complicates it. It's either pull it all down or use the JB.

Cool, wish there was open space like that here.

Save

1 - 3 of 11 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month