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1989 F250 7.3l / E40D
Truck had a blown head gasket, I thought all I was going to do was tickets for the machine shop swap out the head gaskets and put it back together. Machine shop guy recommended I bring him the block crank and pistons because the truck side so long with water/coolant in the cylinder. I've never pulled an engine before, I was thinking I would use 4 head bolts, pass the bolts through a chain and connect chain to engine hoist. Is this a good idea, bad idea? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Does your engine still have the factory lifting eyes installed?

These engine blocks are heavy, if I remember right they weigh in ring around 900 lbs dry with no accessories.

If you are using a engine hoist get the highest rated one that you can find.
 

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this is what it currently looks like. i wasn't planning on removing, the guy at the machine shop recommended bringing him the block, crank, pistons rods and caps. truck sat a few years with coolant in the cylinder.
 

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I have a 2 ton lift/hoist. I'm thinking there's nothing wrong with pulling it out using the head bolts into the block but again, this is my first go so i dont want to goof it up.
 

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I have a 2 ton lift/hoist. I'm thinking there's nothing wrong with pulling it out using the head bolts into the block but again, this is my first go so i dont want to goof it up.
I wouldn't use the headbolts, go buy some shorter bolts to use.

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Stripped down that far I would also get some shorter grade 8 bolts to thread into the head bolt holes.

Perhaps fabing up a plate to bolt over 4 of the bolt holes with a large eye bolt installed in it or even a large U bolt bolted to the plate.
 

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I'm going to get the shorter bolts, as for fabing up something I'm limited to Lowes/Home Depot so I'll have to see what they have. I know they stock superstrut but i don't know if thats sturdy enough to use to lift the motor
 

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Any metal that you can perhaps bolt to the block in a \ using one hole above the cylinder and one on the bottom With a 1/2" U Bolt bolted to will do a lot more than a chain bolted to 2 bolts, or a short length of chain bolted in the same fashion.

The original lifting eye only uses 2 bolts bolted to the heads, one on the rear and one on the front.

Here is a picture of one on my Powerstroke 7.3, it's a little bit fuzzy but you should get the idea, I believe that the IDI is the same
 

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Stripped down that far I would also get some shorter grade 8 bolts to thread into the head bolt holes.

Perhaps fabing up a plate to bolt over 4 of the bolt holes with a large eye bolt installed in it or even a large U bolt bolted to the plate.
taking bugmans idea, if you can buy some 2” or 3“ angle iron (1/4” thick) you could make the brackets out of this to bolt to the heads and drill a hole in the other leg (upright) for a shackle.
 

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That by itself would work, if it is solidly bolted to the head deck. By solidly I mean won't move. One of those on opposite corners, across a cylinder like you almost have it would give you a place to attach a chain.
 

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Here’s a real rough sketch, not to scale.... and if load is let’s say 900# and you make two brackets you’ve split the load to 450# to each bracket
6CBCEF68-AC1A-4276-B945-301FA108B440.jpeg
 

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I would not worry about getting grade 8 bolts, considering the lifting brackets on those are only 3/8 bolts

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IMO, No more in the price difference for a handful of bolts I would stick with grade 8. If one of the bolts or brackets were to happen to be a little loose you’ll have some side load. Then just store those bolts with the brackets for future use. Not sure what you have near you.....Our Farm supply stores have bulk bins of grade 3, 5, and 8 in both SAE & Metric.
 

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Just about any Ace, or True Value will have grade 8 bolts along with some auto parts stores such as NAPA.
 

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You could also use the bellhousing bolt holes, paired with some on the front of the engine.

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"I have a 2 ton lift/hoist. I'm thinking there's nothing wrong with pulling it out using the head bolts into the block but again, this is my first go so i dont want to goof it up. "

Nothing wrong with using head bolt sized bolts in the block as long as you make a bracket somewhat like Big Horn illustrated. However, and it's a big "however", you generally find you have to have one bracket towards the front of the block and the other toward the back and use a leveling fixture so so you can tilt the engine as needed for both removal and installation. Bell housing bolts generally don't have enough iron around them for that much of a sideways pull.
 

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Good info here.

I would not worry about getting grade 8 bolts, considering the lifting brackets on those are only 3/8 bolts
You'd be surprised what a 3/8 bolt will lift. I once lifted the front of a vehicle off the ground when trying to pull the engine and missed one 3/8 motor mount bolt. In my defense, I was 16 then. ;)
 

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It seems that way back in the day, they were having some jet engines fall off in flight. There was a comment I remember hearing that those engines were held on with 4 grade 8 3/8" bolts. I don't know how true that is, but I was impressed, and over the years, I've seen some very small bolts do a WHOLE lot more than anyone would ever think they would. I'm not saying to trust it with your life, but a properly tightened bolt will hold better than most welds
 

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bell housing bolts generally don't have enough iron around them for that much of a sideways pull.
Good to know. Haven't really had to lift many diesel, but done some paperweight gas engines that way. Lol
It's always tough remembering the weight difference. When a fully dressed gas v8 is still half the weight of a diesel.

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