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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 1995 F-superduty PSD. 210,000 miles. On AE's website it says the f450-550 etc are not light duty and will have no support. Also, 1995 is not listed in the ford package. I'd like to be able to run tests instead of throwing parts or paying a shop for diagnostics.

I bought it non running because PO had taken the CPS out and didn't have money for a new one. It had sat for a few months. It supposedly needed the CPS replaced. No CEL is on. It does turn on for about 1 second when I turn the key on so I know the bulb works. The EBPV is open, and moves freely. I can hear the turbo "whistle" when it gets over about 800 rpms. I put a new CPS in (purple oring), new fuel filter (there was fuzzy crap all over the old fuel filter even though it was changed a year ago), changed oil and filter, filled coolant and checked the ICP sensor. The exhaust is currently just dumped under the bed. They were gonna put stacks on it. WTS comes on, it starts and it runs. Tachometer works. First 5 seconds idle is rough and loping and then smooths out. With the pedal to the floor at first it won't rev past 1000rpm. It's like the injectors fuel supply just cut out. The longer I run it and mess with the throttle pedal the higher it goes. Yesterday it went up to 2200 rpm. When it gets to the cut out point, whether it is 1000, 1500, or 2200 rpms, lots of white smoke. It does the same thing in all gears, and accelerates very slowly. Every once in a while I feel a spurt of power. I'm gonna fill the front tank and try different tanks. Any one got any pointers? I'm going to check fuel pressure at scrader valve, and the "intake boots" for leaks. (if that's what they are called). I'm going to check HPOP oil level, but my understanding is it wouldn't run if it was low. I'm also going to check the TPS on the pedal. I have checked the idle validation switch and it appears to work the way it should. If I push it while the throttle is depressed it returns to idle. Thanks for reading and any advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I sucked all the oil out of the HPOP and refilled it. Same symptoms. I tested the TPS with my voltmeter. It goes from .7 to 4.05. The actual fuel increase seems to be stopping around 2.3 volts, but that's variable. I emailed AE to ask about compatibility. Hopefully I'll find out this week.
 

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I'm going to say fuel starvation is your problem. The gunk you found on the filter may be a sign of a bigger issue, that of fuel contamination. Either that or your fuel pump is not working correctly.



As far as AE not working on a '95 Powerstroke, I know I've hooked up to a '97, which is essentially identical.
 

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AE will work, you need to change the obd setting to "not obd2 compliant," IIRC.
No reason to suck the oil out of the hpop.
Fuel pressure should have been the first thing you checked, especially after you saw "fuzz" on the filter. That's likely algae. You will need a biocide and many filters. I would drop the tank and clean it, as well as try to flush the lines.

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There is a chance that the 95's PCM has not been flashed to wake up the OBDII port.

A slim one but there is that chance that it has never been into a dealer that would do it.
 

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That's supposed to be the point of changing the obd type.
Just from what I've seen others say though.
I've encountered a few obs that weren't flashed.

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Discussion Starter #8
Still the same. I want to make sure I made it clear, it acts exactly the same when free revving. It cuts out at ~2000 rpm and the. Smokes alot and runs rough. If I feather the throttle and don't get to that point it doesn't smoke. If I manage to get the truck into 4th gear going down the road it will pick up speed but if I accelerate too much and cause it to downshift and the RPMs go over 2000 it falls on it's face. I checked the fuel pressure with a makeshift gauge (oil pressure gauge hooked to an airchuck) and had around 45 psi. I took off the fpr and cleaned it. There was not any blockage that I could see. The tube style screen was a little dark but not really clogged. I installed new orings. When I put it back on I only had about 25 psi. I put a BB under the spring and got around 60. Through all of this the truck still ran the same. I installed a new fuel pump and cleaned up the valley. I replaced all the soft lines. I removed the bb and have about 50psi. I already had a obd Bluetooth adapter and torque pro and found out I could use it. I am reading about 20-22psi of EBP I assume this includes atm. If I disconnect it it goes to a default from cpu ~47psi. The most boost I am seeing is around 1.5 the map is functioning and reading atmosphere plus the boost. I cleaned the hose from Intake to MAP. If I disconnect the MAP plug I get a CEL. The truck revs up faster with the map disconnected, but still falls flat at 2000 and runs a lot rougher with even more white smoke. I disconnected the lines coming from both tanks at the Pollack valve and sucked fuel out with a little bulb siphon. It was free flowing makes me think there is no tank restriction. I don't know what it means,but HPOP highest pressure is around 2400 and that's right at 2000 rpm. Highest IPR is 47%. I can access a lot of data, but can't run tests. I can spin the aluminum impeller freely, and it doesn't seem to have any play. I don't have a check engine light unless I unplug something. The kid who owned it said it was fine one minute and suddenly it had no power. He said it was CPS. I did that first because he had removed it. I'm perplexed because it does it at the same RPM underload as free rev. Also, at first start it take a minute or two before it will rev up to 2000. It shows the same symptoms at around 1000 and then 1500. Once it gets to 2000 rpm it doesn't act like that again till the next cold start. Sorry for so many words! Trying not to leave out any pertinent info. Thanks for y'all advice. I don't want to drop the tanks, but I will regardless. I may just put poly's in. The fsuper has steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pictures ofsome of the info. I'm pretty sure this is where it was at on start up or shut down because the peaks are reset.
 

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After I posted I went ahead and downloaded the cargauge app so I could actually scan for codes. All eight injectors buzzed. Two were slightly muted. It spat out a bunch of high low short codes, but I think they were a side effect of the test because from what I have read a buzztest doesn't give codes. I did a CCT and it passed. These are showing up after a reset even though I have no check engine light.
 

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Do the key on engine running injector test. (Contribution test)
Do you have a pic of the high/low codes? You're sure all 8 buzzed?
I still think you have a fuel restriction at higher RPM. What's your gauge do at higher RPM. Imo 60 at idle isnt bad, maybe a little low. But as soon as rpms go up, I bet it's dropping.
Lack of fuel will kill these injectors in a heartbeat. The fuel inside the injector acts as a cushion, so to speak. Without the fuel there, the intesnsifier piston is hammering itself to death.

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll have to make a more permanent gauge, or ask a goat or pig to hold down the pedal before I determine that. My helper is at her mom's. I'm gonna clear all the codes and run the tests again.
 

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I have a cheap oil pressure gauge that I've used for fuel and boost. Its mounted in cab.

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Discussion Starter #14
That's a good idea. I imagine with an electrical sender it could be switched between the two.
 

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Never seen that, but theres your problem. Lol

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for continuing to say fuel supply fuel supply fuel supply. Now, I guess what has to be the problem is the selector. It's gotta be jammed or clogged or something, or maybe there is a shirt in the back tank also! I'm hoping no permanent damage was done to the injectors. I'm going to replace the fuel pickup foot since it was floating on the bottom, with the bypass valve and screen separated from it. There doesn't appear to have ever been a mixing chamber. Then I will make sure the valve is functioning properly and attempt to run it off of the front tank before I go to the trouble of dropping the rear tank. There's a skid plate that is in the way, and it's wet and chilly outside.
 

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Could be pieces from the pickup lodged in the lines or selector valve.

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm stumped. I took out the selector valve and cleaned it and verified it is functioning properly. I repaired the tank pickup, cleaned the tank. Added fresh fuel. Still won't rev above 2000. Fuel pressure is around 50 psi at idle. It goes up a little around 1000 RPMs. I ordered a new fuel pressure regulator orifice and check ball. The original had a cracked piece where one of the orings sits. I don't think that's the cause though. It's frustrating to think I had found the cause only to find out there's something else. If the injectors we're trashed from low pressure wouldn't it throw a code during either contribution test or KOER?
 
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