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I changed the glowplugs, and yeah I made sure everything was plugged in correctly, but in the process I broke the wastegate vacuume lines becuase they were brittle, at the time it didn’t seem like an issue until I started it and it didn’t go over 30mph when flooring it, I put some big vacume hose on it but it didn’t make a difference, it went up to 40, but it shifted super super rough, and I could really hear that turbo building pressure, is there anyone of temporarily fixing it until I get another one in the mail, and could this really be the prime issue, it ran really good before the glow plug change, any tips, suggestions will help, thx for reading
 

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Hi Najib,

Welcome to the forum.
Just to confirm, these were the brittle lines that fell apart?

P/N: F81Z9E498DA
159059
 

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If those rubber boots are what fell apart then you can buy just the boots for a weekend repair; however, a completely new assembly is under $30.

Perhaps someone can correct me but I think you can cap the red line and drive without until you replace it. The risk is excessive boost so do not stomp on the throttle until the repair is complete.
159061
 

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If those rubber boots are what fell apart then you can buy just the boots for a weekend repair; however, a completely new assembly is under $30.

Perhaps someone can correct me but I think you can cap the red line and drive without until you replace it. The risk is excessive boost so do not stomp on the throttle until the repair is complete.
View attachment 159061
It causes excessive boost, it comes with great risk.
 

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It causes excessive boost, it comes with great risk.
I think that technically, it allows for excessive boost, and that is why I included a warning with my statement.

What comes with greater risk is what you are doing when you know you have a malfunctioning system and you insist on “stomping on it”!

If you are going to test your limits with such practices then I strongly encourage you to park the truck until you replace the failed components.
 

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My waste gate Red line has been off and the duct port plugged for more than a decade. Stock you would still de-fuel before dangerous boost pressure. Tuned with a boost cooler and with gages even stock with a boost cooler one can just get your foot out of it. I rarely have a need for more than 20 psi.
 
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That red line won't make your truck run poorly. I had mine break and I never knew there was a problem until I did an oil change. I've also had it plugged to see if I noticed a difference in driveablily. I can build enough boost with it plugged to get the defueling, but nothing else. Most likely it's your turbo leak you describe. If it's running rough, during your GP work you may have moved a wiring harness that was chafing into a position where it shorts. That is what happened to me when I did GP's. The main loom had been chafing on the left valve cover, and I moved it into a shorted position.
 

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That red line won't make your truck run poorly. I had mine break and I never knew there was a problem until I did an oil change. I've also had it plugged to see if I noticed a difference in driveablily. I can build enough boost with it plugged to get the defueling, but nothing else. Most likely it's your turbo leak you describe. If it's running rough, during your GP work you may have moved a wiring harness that was chafing into a position where it shorts. That is what happened to me when I did GP's. The main loom had been chafing on the left valve cover, and I moved it into a shorted position.
it was the red and green wire that broke, and can you elaborate more on the wiring harness type deal
 

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The big 42 pin connector that connects right over the drivers side valve cover is the main harness that splits for both heads. The actual wires can, and do, sit right on the cover and can rub until they short. In my case they rubbed, but had not shorted, until I took everything apart and put it back together. When I thought it was my IDM that failed, I diagnosed a short using the GB Tech bulletin #103 (easy to find here and the interwebs) I went back and found the chafing area. I taped it all up and the truck ran fine. There are a lot of places these wires can rub, and when we get in there with this 20 year conductor insulation bad things can happen. Also, our trucks don't need vacuum to run (as far as I know, someone may chime it). They use an auxiliary vacuum pump to run all these accessories, sensors, and valves. I've had many a broken vacuum line that I diagnosed only because something wasn't working. You can take regular vacuum line and repair these (now brittle) plastic lines.
 

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The big 42 pin connector that connects right over the drivers side valve cover is the main harness that splits for both heads. The actual wires can, and do, sit right on the cover and can rub until they short. In my case they rubbed, but had not shorted, until I took everything apart and put it back together. When I thought it was my IDM that failed, I diagnosed a short using the GB Tech bulletin #103 (easy to find here and the interwebs) I went back and found the chafing area. I taped it all up and the truck ran fine. There are a lot of places these wires can rub, and when we get in there with this 20 year conductor insulation bad things can happen. Also, our trucks don't need vacuum to run (as far as I know, someone may chime it). They use an auxiliary vacuum pump to run all these accessories, sensors, and valves. I've had many a broken vacuum line that I diagnosed only because something wasn't working. You can take regular vacuum line and repair these (now brittle) plastic lines.
I will look at them, When driving i heard the turbo let off extreme pressure and then it shifted, but when it shifts it shifts hard and then you hear the turbo let off, I will look and see what the wires look like,
 
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